Remote Locking suddenly stopped working
#21
#22
Hi guys... dragging this thread back up to ask if this fault was resolved with replacing the door actuator?
Having a similar problem with my S-Type. Car unlocks with the remote, and the boot opens, but it won't lock and it won't turn the headlights on. Key locks the doors in the drivers door lock no problem. Sounds similar to yours.
However, it doesn't explain why one remote will do this but the other will do nothing at all, despite an apparently successful programming to the car with IDS.
... can you help any further, please?
many thanks
Having a similar problem with my S-Type. Car unlocks with the remote, and the boot opens, but it won't lock and it won't turn the headlights on. Key locks the doors in the drivers door lock no problem. Sounds similar to yours.
However, it doesn't explain why one remote will do this but the other will do nothing at all, despite an apparently successful programming to the car with IDS.
... can you help any further, please?
many thanks
#23
My rear passenger actuator was dead, replaced with a second-hand one, now unlocks fine. All four of my doors unlock with the fob, but will only lock with the key in the driver's door; like yours my boot opens but no headlight flash.
Given these symptoms, Meirion1 believes my driver's door actuator micro switches have failed.
Meirion1 is usually right!
Given these symptoms, Meirion1 believes my driver's door actuator micro switches have failed.
Meirion1 is usually right!
#24
Incidentally, Meirion1....
Another forum member here in Dubai that I am trying to help has a rear door locked and it will not open with fob; key or handles? I am addressing this to you because I recall you warning us (several times) not to 'double lock' our cars, because if the actuator or microswitch fails when double-locked one has a big problem?
Has anyone found a solution to this yet, PLEASE?
Another forum member here in Dubai that I am trying to help has a rear door locked and it will not open with fob; key or handles? I am addressing this to you because I recall you warning us (several times) not to 'double lock' our cars, because if the actuator or microswitch fails when double-locked one has a big problem?
Has anyone found a solution to this yet, PLEASE?
#25
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Meirion1, please could you send me a link to a suitable Omron switch and describe how to 'butcher' it?........................................Yes I will ................stand by
"Another forum member here in Dubai that I am trying to help has a rear door locked and it will not open with fob; key or handles? I am addressing this to you because I recall you warning us (several times) not to 'double lock' our cars, because if the actuator or microswitch fails when double-locked one has a big problem?"
Correct!
I suggest he lives with it for a bit and checks the door on a regular basis.............sometimes the micro switch comes back to life very briefly.
Has he used double locking ie fold the door mirrors remotely?
More later if he needs it
"Another forum member here in Dubai that I am trying to help has a rear door locked and it will not open with fob; key or handles? I am addressing this to you because I recall you warning us (several times) not to 'double lock' our cars, because if the actuator or microswitch fails when double-locked one has a big problem?"
Correct!
I suggest he lives with it for a bit and checks the door on a regular basis.............sometimes the micro switch comes back to life very briefly.
Has he used double locking ie fold the door mirrors remotely?
More later if he needs it
Last edited by meirion1; 12-16-2019 at 06:04 PM.
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EsRay (12-16-2019)
#26
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Jimstr
Is it just one door that will not lock or unlock?
Please tell me in detail which doors will not lock with fob and with key (I don't mean RR LR etc)
Try programming the other remote with the headlamp flashing method
Key on
Flash headlights 9 times very quickly
You will get a satisfying beeb if it has worked
Is it just one door that will not lock or unlock?
Please tell me in detail which doors will not lock with fob and with key (I don't mean RR LR etc)
Try programming the other remote with the headlamp flashing method
Key on
Flash headlights 9 times very quickly
You will get a satisfying beeb if it has worked
#27
Jimstr
Is it just one door that will not lock or unlock?
Please tell me in detail which doors will not lock with fob and with key (I don't mean RR LR etc)
Try programming the other remote with the headlamp flashing method
Key on
Flash headlights 9 times very quickly
You will get a satisfying beeb if it has worked
Is it just one door that will not lock or unlock?
Please tell me in detail which doors will not lock with fob and with key (I don't mean RR LR etc)
Try programming the other remote with the headlamp flashing method
Key on
Flash headlights 9 times very quickly
You will get a satisfying beeb if it has worked
I'm sure I tried every method of fob programming before discovering that plugging in IDS was the only way to do it for my car (2005 UK STR), but I will certainly have a go and let you know.
#28
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Well it's an s type which may not be the same as an XJ but if it was an XJ
I would suspect a failed microswitch in the driver's door.
The driver's door actuator in the XJ is unique in that there are two status
switches and two alarm switches contained within the actuator hence
if the fault relates to one of those you would solve the problem by replacing the whole actuator.
What I am saying is if I am wrong about the microswitch and it's a status switch then problem solved.
Cheers
Where are you in Blighty?
I would suspect a failed microswitch in the driver's door.
The driver's door actuator in the XJ is unique in that there are two status
switches and two alarm switches contained within the actuator hence
if the fault relates to one of those you would solve the problem by replacing the whole actuator.
What I am saying is if I am wrong about the microswitch and it's a status switch then problem solved.
Cheers
Where are you in Blighty?
#30
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Ray
You have to buy 5 switches
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/micro...d%22%3Atrue%7D
Open actuator and remove motor by gently levering it up
the 12v supply contacts are underneath
Cut 3 contacts on old switch I used side cutters.
Remove old switch
Trim 'wires' on Omron switch to a suitable length.
You may need to emery remains of old contacts to remove any oxide and get a good soldered joint.
At the opposite end to the "tit" cut off plastic pin as flush as possible since it will not fit in the hole.
Place the other plastic pin in the hole so the the switch is in position and the tit is against the triangular
lever.
hold the switch down with forefinger and solder contacts- need three hands or a friend.
Replace motor and close up actuator ensuring that the circular spring in the corner has not been disturbed .
Test on bench remembering to latch lock before applying 12v
Note that I have done this and lock works on the bench but has not been installed in a door
and I do not know how long the repair will last in use.
Cheers
You have to buy 5 switches
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/micro...d%22%3Atrue%7D
Open actuator and remove motor by gently levering it up
the 12v supply contacts are underneath
Cut 3 contacts on old switch I used side cutters.
Remove old switch
Trim 'wires' on Omron switch to a suitable length.
You may need to emery remains of old contacts to remove any oxide and get a good soldered joint.
At the opposite end to the "tit" cut off plastic pin as flush as possible since it will not fit in the hole.
Place the other plastic pin in the hole so the the switch is in position and the tit is against the triangular
lever.
hold the switch down with forefinger and solder contacts- need three hands or a friend.
Replace motor and close up actuator ensuring that the circular spring in the corner has not been disturbed .
Test on bench remembering to latch lock before applying 12v
Note that I have done this and lock works on the bench but has not been installed in a door
and I do not know how long the repair will last in use.
Cheers
The following users liked this post:
EsRay (12-17-2019)
#32
#33
"Another forum member here in Dubai that I am trying to help has a rear door locked and it will not open with fob; key or handles? I am addressing this to you because I recall you warning us (several times) not to 'double lock' our cars, because if the actuator or microswitch fails when double-locked one has a big problem?"
Correct!
I suggest he lives with it for a bit and checks the door on a regular basis.............sometimes the micro switch comes back to life very briefly.
Has he used double locking ie fold the door mirrors remotely?
More later if he needs it
Correct!
I suggest he lives with it for a bit and checks the door on a regular basis.............sometimes the micro switch comes back to life very briefly.
Has he used double locking ie fold the door mirrors remotely?
More later if he needs it
If this guy's microswitch/Actuator is really dead (shuffled off its mortal coil) and the door will not open in any way, is there anything he can do (apart from 'jemmy' the door and get a new one?
#34
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He may be able to get the inside of the door off with the door locked shut but he will have to
cut through the metal on the inside of the door and destroy the actuator to get the door open.
I had the same problem but the actuator worked again briefly.
Mind you I have always been a lucky B#####tad
cut through the metal on the inside of the door and destroy the actuator to get the door open.
I had the same problem but the actuator worked again briefly.
Mind you I have always been a lucky B#####tad
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EsRay (12-19-2019)
#35
Ray
You have to buy 5 switches
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/micro...d%22%3Atrue%7D
Open actuator and remove motor by gently levering it up
the 12v supply contacts are underneath
Cut 3 contacts on old switch I used side cutters.
Remove old switch
Trim 'wires' on Omron switch to a suitable length.
You may need to emery remains of old contacts to remove any oxide and get a good soldered joint.
At the opposite end to the "tit" cut off plastic pin as flush as possible since it will not fit in the hole.
Place the other plastic pin in the hole so the the switch is in position and the tit is against the triangular
lever.
hold the switch down with forefinger and solder contacts- need three hands or a friend.
Replace motor and close up actuator ensuring that the circular spring in the corner has not been disturbed .
Test on bench remembering to latch lock before applying 12v
Note that I have done this and lock works on the bench but has not been installed in a door
and I do not know how long the repair will last in use.
Cheers
You have to buy 5 switches
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/micro...d%22%3Atrue%7D
Open actuator and remove motor by gently levering it up
the 12v supply contacts are underneath
Cut 3 contacts on old switch I used side cutters.
Remove old switch
Trim 'wires' on Omron switch to a suitable length.
You may need to emery remains of old contacts to remove any oxide and get a good soldered joint.
At the opposite end to the "tit" cut off plastic pin as flush as possible since it will not fit in the hole.
Place the other plastic pin in the hole so the the switch is in position and the tit is against the triangular
lever.
hold the switch down with forefinger and solder contacts- need three hands or a friend.
Replace motor and close up actuator ensuring that the circular spring in the corner has not been disturbed .
Test on bench remembering to latch lock before applying 12v
Note that I have done this and lock works on the bench but has not been installed in a door
and I do not know how long the repair will last in use.
Cheers
Your recent post has motivated me to try to replace the micro switches in my front right passenger door...
#36
Very old post, but as it came back it may not be resolved yet.
I have a similar topic with my car since a few months, suddenly it would only unlock by FOB but had to be locked with the key. That happened in parallel to my trunk lock quitting service. It still holds the trunk shut, but the motor won't pull it in anymore and I have the Boot Open message in my display all the time.
What I found during my investigations is that in order for the locking action by FOB to work some boundary conditions are needed by the car's electronic brains.
Two less obvious of them seem to be that the sensors of both trunk and engine bay need to tell the car that they are closed. If any of these doesn't report its closed signal then the FOB locking won't work, but key still will. There may be more sensor conditions needed (probably all the doors report their closed status, too), but trunk and especially engine bay may be easily overlooked in the search.
I'm chasing for an affordable boot lock since some time that will pull the flap in again, but yet without success, so I can't verify my findings yet. At least the principle tat trunk and engine bay locks have to report physically closed conditions to the electronic module to successfully remote lock has bee confirmed by a mechanic at my former Jaguar dealership.
Maybe an idea where to continue looking. I can update my results once I find a boot lock
I have a similar topic with my car since a few months, suddenly it would only unlock by FOB but had to be locked with the key. That happened in parallel to my trunk lock quitting service. It still holds the trunk shut, but the motor won't pull it in anymore and I have the Boot Open message in my display all the time.
What I found during my investigations is that in order for the locking action by FOB to work some boundary conditions are needed by the car's electronic brains.
Two less obvious of them seem to be that the sensors of both trunk and engine bay need to tell the car that they are closed. If any of these doesn't report its closed signal then the FOB locking won't work, but key still will. There may be more sensor conditions needed (probably all the doors report their closed status, too), but trunk and especially engine bay may be easily overlooked in the search.
I'm chasing for an affordable boot lock since some time that will pull the flap in again, but yet without success, so I can't verify my findings yet. At least the principle tat trunk and engine bay locks have to report physically closed conditions to the electronic module to successfully remote lock has bee confirmed by a mechanic at my former Jaguar dealership.
Maybe an idea where to continue looking. I can update my results once I find a boot lock
#37
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Boot locks have limited life and are $400 from the dealers if they still have any
Failed ones very difficult and time consuming to repair
Two here but not cheap:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+lock&_sacat=0
Use the key in the boot to lock boot and eliminate dash light
Failed ones very difficult and time consuming to repair
Two here but not cheap:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+lock&_sacat=0
Use the key in the boot to lock boot and eliminate dash light
#38
At least in my 2003 car the boot cannot be locked with a key, just unlocked. No turning left possible in the lock.
I got sort of accustomed to the red light. And the boot is mechanically closed and and safe, just the electric actuator that still pulls as soon as the flap hits home doesn't work. And this electric actuator also seems to be part of the system that tells the car controls that the flap is closed.
Has anybody already disassembled such a boot actuator? Is there maybe some microswitch inside that tells when the flap is in the lock and thereby sets off the electric pulling action? That might be easy to exchange, but as I currently need the car, unfortunately I can't start ripping essentials apart without knowing in advance what to expect and have it prepared.
A not even mechanically closing boot, waiting for me to find suitable switches in electronic online stores and for them to arrive would be quite inconvenient at the moment
I got sort of accustomed to the red light. And the boot is mechanically closed and and safe, just the electric actuator that still pulls as soon as the flap hits home doesn't work. And this electric actuator also seems to be part of the system that tells the car controls that the flap is closed.
Has anybody already disassembled such a boot actuator? Is there maybe some microswitch inside that tells when the flap is in the lock and thereby sets off the electric pulling action? That might be easy to exchange, but as I currently need the car, unfortunately I can't start ripping essentials apart without knowing in advance what to expect and have it prepared.
A not even mechanically closing boot, waiting for me to find suitable switches in electronic online stores and for them to arrive would be quite inconvenient at the moment
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