I'll be applying WD-40 for this. Or do you suggest a better alternative to this? And what solvent to use for degrease? How do I clean the dryer compartment ?

 

WD-40 will work, but as I mentioned earlier a good penetrating/rust dissolving oil like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster would be even better.

To clean the dryer compartment you can use a mild solvent like denatured alcohol, naptha, mineral spirits, etc., or you could probably even use dish soap/washing up liquid and water if you're not too careless with the water. Just be sure you let it dry thoroughly before refilling it with the desiccant beads.

Cheers,

Don

 

Is it ok if, while cleaning with liquid soap and water, the water flows through the holes at the bottom of the dryer ?

Also, for the filters, I plan to simply replace them with new home made filters of same fabric. I can cut the same size and shape. Tell me, does the thickness matter ? If the new filter is slightly thinner than the original thickness, can I keep 2 at each end ? Will this have a good effect ? Is this a good idea ?

Sorry for too many questions..

 

If soapy water goes through those holes, you'll want to rinse thoroughly with clear water and then dry the air dryer cylinder thoroughly, perhaps by setting it in a warm oven for an hour or so at 150 degrees F.

Regarding the filters, making new ones is probably fine if you use a fabric that will flow air easily, but you may be able to clean and reuse your old ones. I just soaked mine in denatured alcohol, then soaked them overnight in water with a little chlorine bleach. Soaking them in CLR would help remove any rust stains. Rinse with filtered or distilled water and dry them thoroughly. Here are before and after photos of my filters:




This photo is from my phototutorial on rebuilding the compressor. Have you looked at all my photos? They will probably answer most of your questions.

Cheers,

Don

 

I tried following your photo tutorial. But I could not get as good results as yours. Check my before/after photos.

 

I think Don B has the "magic touch".

 

I'm surprised the chlorine bleach didn't do more to lighten the stains. Did you let the filters soak in the water & bleach overnight?

Cheers,

Don

 

yes. soaked for about 10 hours. I reckon, new ones will be a better magic ?!?

 

Things now ready for assembly back. As Don said, putting in the rusted spring would be risking the whole compressor again. It was not in condition to be cleaned as 1 end of it was as thin as just 0.5mm left for a length of about 13.5mm, as most of the portion of it was mostly brittle. So I got a new spring made.

Now I have new spring, new O ring, new piston ring, and 2 new filters of 1.3mm thickness. All new items as per original specs.

The rest of the items are all the same cleaned as possible. Check photo. Any advice/comments.

 

Looks fine to me.
I am not surprised that your spring could not be re-used, it looked miserable...
Just missing the dried beads now!

 

Looking good, jagnew!

Cheers,

Don

 

Here are the dried beads in an oven cake pan...
Will be putting all of it together tomorrow.

 

The head and the cylinder is now re-married. Now, see the current state of the filter. Please advice.

 

Since the valve is anyway removed, should I flush that also with the compressed air. Does that require any sort of cleaning. Would that be safe ?

 

I considered backflushing my filter with a solvent but decided it might be difficult or very time consuming to dry, so I just backflushed it with compressed air. I don't know how much good that did, if any. I did clean the outside of the filter with a mild solvent like denatured alcohol or naptha.

Cheers,

Don

 

I agree with Don.
The filter is here mainly to bock solid particles such as dust.
If the filter is clogged with dust, backflushing with compressed air is probably the most effective.
Using a solvent may risk leaving oily or wet surfaces inside the filter unless you use a pure and very volatile solvent such as acetone or methanol.

 

What about the valve ? Any advice on this please ?

 

Not sure which valve you're describing but they should all be cleaned: check valve, exhaust valve and pressure relief valve (PRV).

I didn't clean the exhaust valve or PRV but ever since I did the job I have wished that I had, given the corrosion I found inside the air dryer and on the check valve. In one of bagpipingandy's videos on his website he shows the inside of the PRV.

Cheers,

Don

 

The attached photo.... the valve that was our initial concern. I think in Jaguar acronyms.. it is the Control Module / ASM ?!? Before giving all back to the mech to fix in the vehicle, should we treat this also ?

 

That is the valve block, and I would recommend that you not do anything to it except to clean the electrical connectors with zero-residue electrical contact cleaner. Take care not to get any debris in the holes for the air hoses.

Jaguar claims that the valve block is a "non-serviceable part," meaning that if it fails, it must be replaced as an assembly.

Cheers,

Don