XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Replacement NSR (UK LHR) half shaft for 2004 XJR

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  #1  
Old 08-17-2016, 12:28 PM
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Default Replacement NSR (UK LHR) half shaft for 2004 XJR

I am having difficulty sourcing a replacement NSR/LHR (UK) half shaft for my 2004 X350 4.2 SC VIN in the G35000 range. I only need to replace the outboard CV joint.

Part XR843491 (up to G41511) is no longer available, and was superceeded to the shared C2P3969 that was used on all the other X350s from G41512 to H31470.

Only C2P3969 doesn't fit as the ABS ring is different (brand new OEM part was supplied with that part label, so I am assuming it was correct).

Should that part have been correct?

So I bought just the outboard CV joint (which is more than the assembled shaft) as C2C6711 which is listed as 4.2 SC up to G41511, but that whilst fitting the shaft has no movement at all on it. It is siezed solid. Again a brand new OEM part was supplied and the supplied OEM grease in the kit was used (I believe 100g from memory). The fitting garage has also stripped the joint and reassembled but still no movement which prevents it being fitted as it needs to move slightly.

Did I get a dud joint kit, or is there some technique to getting the new ones to move? The garage haven't replaced one on an X350 before, but have done loads of other joints without any issue like that.

I have asked all the UK breakers I can find and none can supply the part. All the halfshafts they have in stock either have dead CV joints or are for the later models with the smaller ABS ring. Even those shown on eBay at the moment, which are using photos of the part I need, don.t actually have them when queried. Two even delivered the wrong used part to me despite carefully explaining what I needed with photos.

I can try and buy another joint kit, but at £400 a pop I don't want exactly the same issue with another one. I already have a brand new half shaft I can't use, one used with a dead joint and one used with the wrong ABS ring, and a brand new joint kit that doesn't seem to move. I also have a car stuck on a ramp that is presently unmovable.

Can anyone help? I understand from other threads there is a bit of compatibility between different models but not having worked on the driveline stuff on mine before, and not being the guy who is actually doing the work, I'm working blind.
 

Last edited by xdave; 08-17-2016 at 12:30 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-17-2016, 03:48 PM
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Only thing I can think of is that the inner joint is supplied with some sort of transport locking piece to prevent damage in storage or transit to customer, and this needs removal before use. If the full halfshaft you bought moves freely, I suspect this might be the case. However, I'm not an expert in these matters.

AFAIK there were no significant changes in these halfshafts as far as fitment is concerned, although you do mention the reluctor ring is different. The question is how different ? If you could post up photos of old and new it might help. You do seem to have spent an awfully large sum of money without result. Is the workshop doing the work a Jaguar specialist ? I looked up your part numbers on SNG Barratt, and your half-shaft is not shown "no longer available", but as "Part superseded" with the later shaft pictured below, thus indicating this is the one to use. So you have bought the right one. assuming this is a Jaguar or OEM supply not Joe Noname.
 
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Old 08-17-2016, 11:08 PM
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xdave,

That is a frustrating problem and one that many of us are likely to face in the years to come.

Some of the manufacturers who have made Jaguar half-axles include GKN, NTN, Dana, and Visteon (a Ford OEM). If the parts you have received so far are marked by any of those companies or another, it might be worth calling the manufacturer for any guidance they may be able to offer.

Hopefully others will have some constructive ideas. Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; 08-17-2016 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:09 AM
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If this helps there is a small firm in lincolnshire who make

reluctor rings and could fit the right sized ring for you.

ABS Reluctor Rings - Contact Us
 
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Old 08-18-2016, 03:47 AM
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Thank you for the advice so far - I am going to pop down to the garage this morning to see the parts in person and talk to the mechanic who has been working with them. It is useful to know that I can get a reluctor ring made up if needed because one of the used shafts is afaik ok just with the wrong ring (it is the shaft they were planning to fit yesterday afternoon so they could at least drive the car off the ramp).
 
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Old 08-19-2016, 03:30 PM
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I collected the seized joint (C2C6711) yesterday and it is clearly not right. It has been correctly greased and the ***** and retainer can freely move with firm finger pressure but the centre part that the shaft end mates with is seized solid. I've spoken with the supplier and they have agreed to take it back and resupply for Monday.

The supplier was the same parts dealer that provided the half shaft C2P3969 which had the wrong ABS ring on it (but otherwise looks fine). I emailed in photos of it side-by-side with the original one and they have raised a query with Jaguar regarding it being the correct superceded part for XR843491, if it should be a different part, or if the wrong part was supplied. I think it probably is correct, but you need to replace the outboard joint with C2C6711 in order to fit it to the early XJRs/STRs, but I'm waiting for the email back hopefully early next week.
 
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:35 PM
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Perhaps the assumption with the superceded part number is that it
will require replacement with a newer version of the reluctor ring?
 
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:46 AM
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Time for an update:

After going using calipers to confirm the different style of reluctor ring on C2P3969 was the correct outer size even though the joint itself was different (and that it could therefore be fitted ok), the garage have fitted it. They didn't try before - they just looked at it and saw it was different.

The C2C6711 replacement joint was confirmed as a DOA part and I got my money back on that.

After some teething problems with broken bolts and a damaged wiring harness everything was finally good to go until I went to reverse out of the garage to be met with a lound "thunk" every time reverse is selected (no movement needed). It sounded like someone threw a brick under the car.

It appears to be internal to the rear diff which shakes violently when reverse is first selected. So off it comes to be sent off to be reconditioned.

This will be the fourth time the rear diff has been removed from that car!
- The first was because it made a winding noise when the power was removed above 5mph (disapeared when power was applied).
- The second was after that was sent to be reconditioned and it came back generally ok but it would cause the rear seats to vibrate up and down above 85mph. Glasses would vibrate off passenger's noses! It was a great speed limiter.
- The third was when that was replaced with a different used unit which was stripped, confirmed to be ok, and rebuilt with brand new seals and mounts. It worked ok after initially fitting, but now has developed that "thunk" when selecting reverse.

So off if goes to the transmission shop for repair. Fourth time lucky? I'm hoping I might get to drive the car again before the end of the year. If the shop can't fix it I will be looking for an XF to steal the revised drive train from.

So to summarise for the topic of this thread - C2P3969 is the correct part you need for the early X350 4.2 SC until G41511 for the left rear half shaft with the original diff.
 
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:09 PM
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I will be very interested to see what the resolution to your problem is as I am sure you will be as well!
 
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:28 PM
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I am keeping my fingers crossed it can be repaired/reconditioned. The first rear diff failure was due to the known problem with the fluid leaking out and what was left congealed into a horrific-smelling jelly. The second was (I believe) down to poor fitment but not picked up until the damage was done. The third (current) problem I am not sure about until it is opened up and checked. I am leaning towards it being a poor fitment job again with all the to and thro of the half shaft fitments. TBH as long as it is fixed I don't really care anymore - at almost two months in the garage now I've forgotten what it looks like!
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 06:25 AM
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I finally picked the XJR up again yesterday.

The replacement diff was refurbished by a specialist firm and was found to be all within tolerance and no signs of having run without fluid, however one bearing was replaced as preventative maintenance while it was all opened up. Whilst that may seem like a waste of £400 (refurb + labour) I am glad it was done because it gives me confidence in the replacement diff (plus a 1 year warranty on it too which is nice to have).

The cause of the "thunking" sound was determined to be a mount allowing something in the rear drivetrain to move when the direction of travel was changed, but the actual cause was unfound. The mounting bush on the diff itself was replaced with new when it was first fitted to my car (I always get the mounting hardware replaced instead of reusing even if it looks ok - it seems silly not to while you have access to them) and the garage checked the two mounts on the car itself and they looked to be sound. After reassembly the noise is no longer there and the car drives as good as new again. It looks like there was a fitment issue the first time round that was not repeated the second time. As I mentioned above TBH I am not that concerned as long as it was resolved and doesn't come back.

Now the rear diff is ok I only have one remaining issue with the car. I had noticed a faint tick/click noise from the NSR (UK LHR) wheel area that was only present when power is being transfered to the wheel, and ceases the moment it is withdrawn. About once per revolution but I cant be certain. Speed and engine RPM only affect it insofar as the frequency increases but not the volume, pitch, etc. With it only occuring during power transmission, and the drive shaft and on that side has now been replaced with brand new I am confident it is not from the outboard CV joint as the sound is still there, and as the Brembo brake calipers have been on and off multiple times during the recent repairs I am fairly confident it is not those either, so I am leaning towards it being the bearing that holds the CV joint into the hub mounting. It is the only other moving part before the road wheels. I am confident I can pull that myself with my DIY-quality hub puller as the hub should come off easily after the repairs, so I've ordered a new OEM hub and aftermarket bearing kit.

That ongoing issue asside, it is great to have the XJR back and able to drive it again. Despite the rain this morning I took it up the Exe valley road (A396) from Tiverton to Minehead and it drove pefectly.
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:19 PM
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Great news, glad you have your beautiful XJ going again! My diff looks like it needs new gaskets (as it is weeping) might get a Limited Slip Diff put in at the same time
 
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