Replacement Radiator Advice
#1
Replacement Radiator Advice
Hello-
I want to start by saying I have done searches already on this subject. And I appreciated what I read from Black Kat and Anders Hanson, but I still have questions.
I need to replace the original radiator on my 2005 XJ8L at 121,953. I made the discovery when I was replacing the auxiliary water pump.
I found that where the upper hose connects to the radiator, parts of the plastic rim had broken away: about 2/3rds. I found some of it attached to the upper hose, but I don't know if the other bits went into the radiator or the engine.
I thought about using a hacksaw to just cut the rim flush, then reattach the hose, but I am concerned about the plastic cracking further in toward the radiator.
So I have decided to replace the radiator, especially as I will be driving through Nevada in June north from Vegas to Idaho. I live in Southern California.
Two questions:
1.) Is it better to find a replacemtn that is aluminum or plastic with aluminium core?
2.) Black kat had mentioned finding a radiator from Behr. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket or OE level replacement? If possible not from China.
Partsgeek -- Lists Nissens, Hella, Behr
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20.../radiator.html
NAPA
https://www.napaonline.com/p/NRS2777
eBAY
https://www.ebay.com/b/Radiators-Par...L+Sedan+4-Door
Thank you in advance for your help.
Finzi Holst
I want to start by saying I have done searches already on this subject. And I appreciated what I read from Black Kat and Anders Hanson, but I still have questions.
I need to replace the original radiator on my 2005 XJ8L at 121,953. I made the discovery when I was replacing the auxiliary water pump.
I found that where the upper hose connects to the radiator, parts of the plastic rim had broken away: about 2/3rds. I found some of it attached to the upper hose, but I don't know if the other bits went into the radiator or the engine.
I thought about using a hacksaw to just cut the rim flush, then reattach the hose, but I am concerned about the plastic cracking further in toward the radiator.
So I have decided to replace the radiator, especially as I will be driving through Nevada in June north from Vegas to Idaho. I live in Southern California.
Two questions:
1.) Is it better to find a replacemtn that is aluminum or plastic with aluminium core?
2.) Black kat had mentioned finding a radiator from Behr. Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket or OE level replacement? If possible not from China.
Partsgeek -- Lists Nissens, Hella, Behr
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20.../radiator.html
NAPA
https://www.napaonline.com/p/NRS2777
eBAY
https://www.ebay.com/b/Radiators-Par...L+Sedan+4-Door
Thank you in advance for your help.
Finzi Holst
Last edited by Finzi Holst; 05-26-2019 at 03:36 PM.
#2
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Finzi Holst (05-26-2019)
#4
#5
Thanks, Wingrider. If I for the 1A route I will report back on it.
Also thanks to slmskrs, Reggie's Dad and Lagonia for these useful nuggets:
slmskrs -- 08-02-2015, 07:30 PM
Reggie's Dad is correct; there's no way to pull the radiator out on a normally aspirated 4.2 without undoing the AC tube that wraps around the radiator and connects to the AC condenser. The 6,000 page service manual is helpful (removing the reservoir, removing the fan shroud [actually, it's a bit weak], and the radiator removal process) with the BIG exception that it says NOTHING about having to disconnect the AC line. That is a $125-$200 additional expense to have it recharged. Once I disconnected the AC line, removal and replacing went fairly quick.
Anyway, it doesn't appear that the radiator fails much on this car (the dealer service advisor didn't even know how to get the radiator out). So hopefully very few of you will need to replace the radiator. But if you do, factor in that you will need to do an AC recharge afterwards. Also, note that you do not want any moisture/humidity to get into the AC lines, so be prepared to plug or cover both ends when you pull the line (you have to bleed it first).
I could not remove the radiator w/o removing the A/C line. After I was all done, I replaced the A/C line O-ring, evacuated and recharged the system and had no issues for two years now.
Lagonia -- 04-27-2016, 06:58 PM
NOTE: There is the risk of puncturing the air con condenser with the bracket on the front of the radiator (the one that the condenser pushes into).
Also thanks to slmskrs, Reggie's Dad and Lagonia for these useful nuggets:
slmskrs -- 08-02-2015, 07:30 PM
Reggie's Dad is correct; there's no way to pull the radiator out on a normally aspirated 4.2 without undoing the AC tube that wraps around the radiator and connects to the AC condenser. The 6,000 page service manual is helpful (removing the reservoir, removing the fan shroud [actually, it's a bit weak], and the radiator removal process) with the BIG exception that it says NOTHING about having to disconnect the AC line. That is a $125-$200 additional expense to have it recharged. Once I disconnected the AC line, removal and replacing went fairly quick.
Anyway, it doesn't appear that the radiator fails much on this car (the dealer service advisor didn't even know how to get the radiator out). So hopefully very few of you will need to replace the radiator. But if you do, factor in that you will need to do an AC recharge afterwards. Also, note that you do not want any moisture/humidity to get into the AC lines, so be prepared to plug or cover both ends when you pull the line (you have to bleed it first).
I could not remove the radiator w/o removing the A/C line. After I was all done, I replaced the A/C line O-ring, evacuated and recharged the system and had no issues for two years now.
Lagonia -- 04-27-2016, 06:58 PM
NOTE: There is the risk of puncturing the air con condenser with the bracket on the front of the radiator (the one that the condenser pushes into).
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