I under stood what you stated about the signal.I do have MAF cleaner fluid.

What I have decided to do while I have the car up and pan off is to replace the solenoids, the sleeve, and the rubber "hoses".

Now if there is a mess of metal shavings on the magnets.....................

 

John,

When removing the Mechatronic unit only remove the larger T10 bolts. (I think theres a total of 10)

As far as metal shavings on the pan magnets. I think you said you switched out the pan only 7K miles ago so a thin film is not out of the norm.

Be very careful when swapping out the solenoids. No static contact with them. The 4 rubber sleeves are self explanatory. Ok for them to stick out a tiny bit of the housing.

I'd change the bridge seal too.

I think your in NJ so if you get in a pickle - reach out I have SDD/IDS set up, including a power pack for my laptop that plugs into the power outlet in the car for driving purposes.

PS - I have a spare mechatronic unit w/ solenoids - came out of my other Jag.

Keep us apprised of your progress.

 

Thank you abonano. Good that you pointed out the static issue with the solenoids!

Its a waiting game right now for parts. That includes the bridge seal.

Thank you for your offer. I am in MD unfortunately.

 

Ouch...lol....

 

This will be a long waiting game on parts.

I have ordered the solenoids,pan,mech sleeve and "rubber" pieces along with 9 litres of ZF fluid.

Fluid arrives today and is more than I need but a good price and I will be doing a fluid change on my Rover anyway.

The solenoids are way out in delivery time so they will be the hold up.I wanted new and not rebuilt.

Already got the car up and horizontal.

The plan is to check the fluid level and condition then drain and measure quantity obtained.

I am assuming there is nothing serious with regards to metal shavings at this point.

Will keep this thread posted with updates including pics.

 

Looking forward to it!

 

• Nov 9, 2019
• 11:45pm

• Flight landed in destination country

Getting closer with the solenoids.

I have all the other "stuff" that I need.

The above relates to the solenoids.

 

Ok so the solenoids look like they will be delivered today so will start on this job.

I looked at the following video which was a little worrying to me in that I might have burned clutches as the unit being rebuilt only had around 50,000 on it:


I think I could do a complete rebuild all except for the mechatronics unit itself which has dozens of tiny parts, saw that in another video.

I tried a DIY on a manual transmission on an XJS many, many years ago and got into trouble with the needle bearings!

First job will be to check the mechatronics sleeve area for leaks then drain fluid and weigh it. The car has been sitting raised for a while now so not expecting
to have to wait hours for the drain.

 

What is the difference between the ZF6HP26 and the ZF6HP28 transmission?

Reason for asking is that my Rover has the 28 tranny and I want to flush that sometime soon and will replace the same components that I am doing on the Jag now.

Google so far is no help.

 

Hi John,

I don't know the exact differences between the 26 and 28 transmissions but you can download the most recent ZF fluid specification data sheet here:

ZF Fluid Specifications Passenger Car Transmissions TE-ML 11

Cheers,

Don

 

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/So...structions.pdf

The above I found very helpful.

Will be carrying out the solenoid replacement today once I go to Home Depot to buy another torx screwdriver set which I spent a long time searching for
in my garage yesterday to no avail. I used the set just about a week ago.

Will post some pics of what I found/saw later.

 

As far as I can tell the zf6hp26 and the 28 use the same fluid, solenoids, and rubber seals/tubes, and pan. Something is different however I have not discovered
what that is.

Update on my work.

I have put in the new solenoids,rubber seals/tubes,pan, and mech sleeve. Pretty much went as expected. Triple checked my torque settings.

Also so far put 2 litres + of new fluid and stopped when it started to overflow unexpectedly.

I drained about 4 liters so was expecting to be able to put 3 liters in cold.

There is good news and bad news.

Good news no metal fragments or even specs. Bad news is that the old fluid is quite black. Way more black in color than expected.

I am thinking I did burn some clutch discs. How badly I have no idea.

I will continue going thru a refill and recalibration and see what transpires.

If I succeed with that I will then do another drain and fill X 2. Not going to do a flush at this stage.

The mechatronics sleeve was dry and the electrical contacts looked good.

The old rubber seals/tubes were not cracked and looked ok except of course squashed a little flat.

Will post pics of some things soon.

Immediately after the fault occured the car drove just fine and changed gear just fine. I did not try accelerating hard tho.

 

 

On reassembly I made sure the slide and the lever were lined up.

However when reattaching the solenoid body to the transmission the lever became misaligned for whatever reason. I did catch this issue and realigned the two components
successfully .

I have almost completed the refill procedure however I have lost confidence in my infra red thermometer as the laser red dot has disappeared.

Even tho it was showing different temperatures on different surfaces that it was pointed at it was not going above 19 C where fluid was dripping out of the fill hole for some 15 minutes.

So ordered another one and will continue the fill procedure in a few days. I do not want to take chances on this.

 

Looked under the Jag just now and could see a puddle of trans fluid.

It was coming from the inspection hole in the trans bell housing. When I swipe a finger in there lots of trans fluid.

So looks like I will need to get the trans out and at the very least replace a seal/bearing race.

Not in any mood or hurry to do this now the colder weather is here even if I want to do it all now.

 

Hi John,

Do you have a scan tool that can read Live Data? If so, it will probably display the transmission oil temperature. I think SDD also has that capability but I've never tried given how slow it is to use.

Cheers,

Don

 

I do Don. However I am reasessing my situation right now as I would have to drop the transmission to deal with my latest setback.

My engine temp was at a steady 199 F while I was doing the reill according to my Autool X60.

 

John,

I was apparently typing my previous post while you were posting your latest update. I'm very sorry you've got a leak! I know you'll keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

I am wondering if I have had a slow leak for some time and just have not noticed it.

If so low oil in the transmission could be responsible for my hard fault.

I have started planning what to do to drop the transmission.

I think I will try accessing the top bolt on the transmission as that seems to be the most difficult to get at and go from there.

If I get the trans out I might as well look at the first couple of clutch sets to start.

 

Are you sure its trans fluid and not oil from the rear main seal? Regardless, as you pointed out the trans has to come out. Bummer...