I am sure it is LF6 fluid.

Its funny I have tackled big jobs before however it has been by choice.

This one has been "forced" on me so I have to adjust my attitude and see it as a challenge not a PITA!

 

Since it would be prudent to change the rear main crankshaft oil seal while you're in there anyway, it doesn't really matter whether it's engine oil or transmission fluid.

Which makes me wonder about the coincidence of this happening just after all the work you've recently done... Is it possible the fluid just got splashed up there while you were draining the transmission and lowering the pan???

 

The rubber plug was in place while I was doing the service so I do not see how that could have happened Don.

Thats a good point about the rear main crankshaft oil seal.

 

The pump seal in the torque converter have been known to leak---leaks transmission fluid into bell housing. Ask me how I know.

 

This is the first time I have seen it mentioned in this forum.

So how do you know?

 

I bought my 2004 Vanden Plas just over 5 years ago--169k kms on clock---it came with just over $15k worth of completed dealer service/repair invoices including most of the usual suspects,eg throttle body, engine comp fuse box etc etc.
At 64k kms owner reported burning oil odour---dealer replaced the rear crank seal AJ83744 and 5.3 hours of labour. Total $785
One month later, at 66k kms, owner reported oil leak under vehicle---dealer replaced transmission oil pump seal C2C6727,supplies and labour. Total $887

When I bought the car it had leaking transmission oil cooler lines---I am sure removing the transmission twice probably shortened their life--I got a $2000 price reduction and replaced the lines with new factory gear for $200.

 

So have started the process of transmission removal. I am working with the car on jack stands and laying on my back on a cold concrete floor so I am pacing myself.

Anyway I will have to rotate the torque converter to get at the retaining bolts.

Question when facing the front of the car which way should I rotate the engine?

Will I be able to rotate the engine without taking spark plugs out?

 

Clockwise I believe and yes, you should be able to turn the motor but be careful using that crank bolt to do so.

Heard horror stories..

 

Just found this while looking for torque settings:

ZF6HP26
TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK
COMPLAINT:
CAUSE:
CORRECTION:
The transmission appears to be leaking from the front seal (Refer to Figure 1).
The vent is routed to the bell-housing in a similar fashion as Ford’s 5R55S&W transmissions
and could be mistaken as a front seal leak should fluid be pushed out of the vent.
Check the fluid and level to determine if the transmission is either over filled, aerated or
overheated. If overfull, correct level.

So overfilling could have been the issue because during the fill process I messed around with the rear height, trying to level from side to side, of the car and had it higher than the front.

My level was inaccurate as well!!!!

In any case I want to look at some clutches so will proceed with dropping the transmission.

 

Found this on Ebay: "NEW OEM ZF6HP26/28 Solenoid (Blue Connector) 06-Up".

Looks like a difference between the 26 and 28.

 

Hi John!

Other than comparing the 6HP26 to the Ford 5R55S/W transmissions, which are known for problems, this is great news! I'm hopeful that the fluid you noticed came from the vent rather than the front seal.

Are you certain you want to drop the transmission now? I'd be tempted to set the fluid at the correct level and drive the car long enough to see if the leak has abated.

Cheers,

Don

 

You have stated exactly what I am pondering on doing Don.

Will make up my mind once I have had my two cups of hot tea!

 

so Don you swayed me!

I have almost completed putting everything back together.

Just a few adjustments fitting the exhaust back.

Have ordered more LF6 fluid and will have to wait until that gets here to do the fill.

On the absolute level this time!

 

GOOD LUCK

 

What works best is for the vehicle to be level by checked at the frame rail, even if the trans pan doesnt look "level".

That has always worked fine for me.

 

I agree with abonano - it's the vehicle that must be level, not the trans pan. ZF designed it under the assumption that the vehicle will be level on a lift while the transmission is being serviced. Since the X350 doesn't have a frame, per se, I use the door sills as my level reference.

Cheers,

Don

 

Yes Don, meant door sills

 

I am using the door sills.

I got as far as the basic fill yesterday and went to start the car and discovered I had the gear selector wrongly positioned after detaching it and then refitting it.

So now in the process of positioning it correctly which is proving a bit of a challenge.

Also my computer threw a wobbly yesterday. My motherboard gave up the ghost and I wasted quite a while trying to recover from that to no avail. I could not access
any of the hard drives no matter how they were connected on the board.

Now waiting for a new motherboard from Taiwan.

Using my wife's computer. What a hassle for many reasons!