Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control to X356 with Factory Cruise Control
#1
Retrofit Adaptive Cruise Control to X356 with Factory Cruise Control
Hi, I have a Jaguar XJ X356, Model Code XJTDVI, Build Date 01/2007 which I bought new in New Zealand. The car was factory fitted with Cruise Control, but I am looking to upgrade this to Adaptive Cruise Control. We ran a diagnostics test yesterday using Autologic which confirmed the Jaguar Software Version is 3.51.0 and the Main Software Version is 6.7.0. The Autologic gave the option of adding the ACC module, so it would appear that the car was prepped for this at the factory. Please can anyone give any advice, including the additional parts required (front radar, steering wheel switches etc)? I had an initial discussion with BBA Reman last week, but didn't have the Diagnostic information above at the time. Thanks & regards.
#2
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Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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- you would be looking at a new engine/front body harness and a cabin harness. plus a new Doppler radar that mounts in the front end is $4000us, plus harnesses, switches, may require a lot of other stuff too and you wouldn't know till you compare your cars wiring diagram harness to one equipped with acc. I would say sure given enough time, money, and patience. otherwise save your money and buy 1 already equipped with acc.
#3
- you would be looking at a new engine/front body harness and a cabin harness. plus a new Doppler radar that mounts in the front end is $4000us, plus harnesses, switches, may require a lot of other stuff too and you wouldn't know till you compare your cars wiring diagram harness to one equipped with acc. I would say sure given enough time, money, and patience. otherwise save your money and buy 1 already equipped with acc.
#4
Progress on this build.
Parts plated and painted, new bellow purchased and new plug wired on to the soliniod both ends with high temp wire.
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Time to test the wiring as per the BOOK......
Here I am hoping for some help please!
I will try an explain my writing...done in the bottom of the car.
All grounds tested back to neg - battery.
1) test black wire to ground - yes
2) yellow/purple wire - connects to inhibit switch should read low ohms in P - reads ground) but open / not ground in Drive) - might be meter but close to whats needed.
3) Black/Pink wire - to stalk - reads open and ground when pressed - so all good
4) black/slate wire connected to major switch - should open in on/off and ground on resume - reads - off / ground, on / open, resume / ground
5) yellow / white wire - connected to bellows should read 25/30ohms - reads ground and open when brake pedal pressed like it should.... again could be meter...they read 50ohm and 30ohms at the solenoids.
6) Yellow/black wire is connected to vacuum solenoid should read 50-60oms reads - ground
7) yellow /orange wire 12v - all good
8) green/ purple - connected brake light switch read zero volts and 12v when brake pedal pressed - yep all good.
so that is the test- result is ground when there should be ohms...... is it the meter? Power Probe 3 - connected to positive and neutral on the battery, is this meter sensitive enough to read low ohms or more suited to find shorts?
Lots of wire to read through from battery?
Parts plated and painted, new bellow purchased and new plug wired on to the soliniod both ends with high temp wire.
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Time to test the wiring as per the BOOK......
Here I am hoping for some help please!
I will try an explain my writing...done in the bottom of the car.
All grounds tested back to neg - battery.
1) test black wire to ground - yes
2) yellow/purple wire - connects to inhibit switch should read low ohms in P - reads ground) but open / not ground in Drive) - might be meter but close to whats needed.
3) Black/Pink wire - to stalk - reads open and ground when pressed - so all good
4) black/slate wire connected to major switch - should open in on/off and ground on resume - reads - off / ground, on / open, resume / ground
5) yellow / white wire - connected to bellows should read 25/30ohms - reads ground and open when brake pedal pressed like it should.... again could be meter...they read 50ohm and 30ohms at the solenoids.
6) Yellow/black wire is connected to vacuum solenoid should read 50-60oms reads - ground
7) yellow /orange wire 12v - all good
8) green/ purple - connected brake light switch read zero volts and 12v when brake pedal pressed - yep all good.
so that is the test- result is ground when there should be ohms...... is it the meter? Power Probe 3 - connected to positive and neutral on the battery, is this meter sensitive enough to read low ohms or more suited to find shorts?
Lots of wire to read through from battery?
#5
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