Ride height calibration
#1
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Hi, after doing extensive battle with the suspension over the past month and replacing all my struts with Arnott's unit, and not getting satisfactory height leveling results, I like to check, the mm height values given by the ride height adjustment tool 204-484 that need to be input into the suspension calibration system, is it directly comparable (albeit a little more accurate) to taking a direct measurement from the centre of the wheel to the lower edge of the wheel arch lip?
I ask this as my mechanic and I tried to calibrate the suspension height (without using the the tool as it's on back-order and still hasn't arrived in country) using the direct mm reading tape measure method to get an approximately correct ride height, but when the figures (360mm for the front at the start of calibration) were input into the system, the car went very high, possibly to full extension (460mm). Is there an offset to the readings given by the tool, or is it that I have a height sensor or other issue? It was similar for the rear (but didn't seem to be as severe) as well but I forget the readings that I input into the calibration computer. How ca I reset the readings to a reasonable level to live with while waiting for the tool to arrive? Any comments would be helpful. Thanks.
I ask this as my mechanic and I tried to calibrate the suspension height (without using the the tool as it's on back-order and still hasn't arrived in country) using the direct mm reading tape measure method to get an approximately correct ride height, but when the figures (360mm for the front at the start of calibration) were input into the system, the car went very high, possibly to full extension (460mm). Is there an offset to the readings given by the tool, or is it that I have a height sensor or other issue? It was similar for the rear (but didn't seem to be as severe) as well but I forget the readings that I input into the calibration computer. How ca I reset the readings to a reasonable level to live with while waiting for the tool to arrive? Any comments would be helpful. Thanks.
#2
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According to the manual you need to do a few things before setting the ride height (yes its from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheelarch (uppermost point))
Ride Height
Ride Height
- All ride height measurements are carried out with vehicle empty and 9 liters of fuel in the tank (showroom condition).
- The vehicle must be driven above 40 km/h (25 miles/hour) for a minimum of five minutes to make sure that the reservoir is full.
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klfong (03-27-2011)
#3
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According to the manual you need to do a few things before setting the ride height (yes its from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheelarch (uppermost point))
Ride Height
Ride Height
- All ride height measurements are carried out with vehicle empty and 9 liters of fuel in the tank (showroom condition).
- The vehicle must be driven above 40 km/h (25 miles/hour) for a minimum of five minutes to make sure that the reservoir is full.
#4
#5
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I had my front air struts and compressor replaced on my 2006 XJ8L. Now I keep getting an air suspension failure message. the car is level and rides okay, I have no idea what happened? It didn't have that warning until the struts were replaced with new ones.. Does anyone have any suggestions to what I need to have done now?
#6
#7
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Ay,,, [QUOTE=Bigvettefreak;2170601]
Roc here from jersey okay so I replace the air suspension strut on the driver side so when I changed it I tighten the air valve to the strut and the front end dropped overnight I listen to the to the said that air valve very closely and put a little water and saw that there was air coming out and my air suspension fault light would go on because the tank would go on more than it should So eventually it shuts off so it doesn't burn itself out unless of course it goes on for what its performance naturally is so I took a hardening bondage and put it around the air valves I unscrew the air valve and put of a lot of film of that bondage around the threads screwed it down and then put some on the outside of the threading the outside of the not rather after it was tightened down and it stopped going on cuz it stopped the air until it got real real cold and air started leaking through how I don't know but that's what the temperature does it already shrinks the shock to begin with somewhat sometimes notice me sometimes unnoticeably so I rubber cemented it's a liquid rubber cement I put that on again cuz you don't plan on taking them off and if you have to you just hold the bottom of the nut that's attached to the shock and with a vice grips and you unscrew the top part and it will come apart it's no different than having it normal but if you don't want to change it you do this and then I put some more of the bondage around it's the red and green stuff that's a like a party and then you can bind it and it gets hard and that worked the car does not go down and the air suspension light does not come on because it's performing how it the tank should be performing and to get the air suspension fault light off if it doesn't go off if you disconnect the the battery that causative first then negative and you listen for your air tank to click back on and the called called and may not you may not hear it because the air pressure is really low so you might have to do it a couple more times and a lot of times if you put your car on an angle like halfway in the driveway and halfway out that'll kick the tank on because it automatically sensors the levels off and tries to fix the level and then that takes care of that I hope this was up help sorry so long I do all the work on my car myself as long as it's anything that I could get to and not too technical with the engine 118,000 miles I've been blessed since I got the car 45000 miles one check engine light and that's because the oil filter wasn't on tight and it was leaking oil and I have low oil
Roc here from jersey okay so I replace the air suspension strut on the driver side so when I changed it I tighten the air valve to the strut and the front end dropped overnight I listen to the to the said that air valve very closely and put a little water and saw that there was air coming out and my air suspension fault light would go on because the tank would go on more than it should So eventually it shuts off so it doesn't burn itself out unless of course it goes on for what its performance naturally is so I took a hardening bondage and put it around the air valves I unscrew the air valve and put of a lot of film of that bondage around the threads screwed it down and then put some on the outside of the threading the outside of the not rather after it was tightened down and it stopped going on cuz it stopped the air until it got real real cold and air started leaking through how I don't know but that's what the temperature does it already shrinks the shock to begin with somewhat sometimes notice me sometimes unnoticeably so I rubber cemented it's a liquid rubber cement I put that on again cuz you don't plan on taking them off and if you have to you just hold the bottom of the nut that's attached to the shock and with a vice grips and you unscrew the top part and it will come apart it's no different than having it normal but if you don't want to change it you do this and then I put some more of the bondage around it's the red and green stuff that's a like a party and then you can bind it and it gets hard and that worked the car does not go down and the air suspension light does not come on because it's performing how it the tank should be performing and to get the air suspension fault light off if it doesn't go off if you disconnect the the battery that causative first then negative and you listen for your air tank to click back on and the called called and may not you may not hear it because the air pressure is really low so you might have to do it a couple more times and a lot of times if you put your car on an angle like halfway in the driveway and halfway out that'll kick the tank on because it automatically sensors the levels off and tries to fix the level and then that takes care of that I hope this was up help sorry so long I do all the work on my car myself as long as it's anything that I could get to and not too technical with the engine 118,000 miles I've been blessed since I got the car 45000 miles one check engine light and that's because the oil filter wasn't on tight and it was leaking oil and I have low oil
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#8
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I have had weird message displayed after doing work on my XJ8L. Latest was after changing thermostat housing with "Cruise control not available" and " O2S not ready" or set so it won't pass smog. I disconnected battery and cleaned throttle body so it worked after less than 50 miles. Before I drove 170 miles w/o success and wrong calculation on MPG in that the decimal digit doesn't go up when driving on the freeway or very, very slowly.
I think it is a good idea to disconnect battery before doing any work related to electrical stuff. Re-connect so the software gets reset correctly.
I think it is a good idea to disconnect battery before doing any work related to electrical stuff. Re-connect so the software gets reset correctly.
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