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OK, it is mine turn.
I took out car for a nice scenic drive. We got hit by a road debris; something like some kind of rigid plastic sheet lifted off the road and hit fron right corner of the car. Unfortunately, Mr. Murphy was at work, and font dashcam was out of alignment. I only got record of the object on rear camera.
Frame 1 Frame 2 Frame 3
I have no Idea what it was!
Here is damage to the car:
I can see it will need new fender, bonnet and headlight. Headlight is functional just lense and housing damaged. I do not know if there is any hidden damage.
I guess best source for replacement parts would be a bone yard, But I will be greatfull for any pointers. As well as how to deal with insurance, it is Hagerty.
Anybody can recomend good body shop in North Boston area?
I will be greatfull for any suggestion.
One question for the comunity, may seems like stupid, but really, would like a definitive way to know how to determin if my car has Xenon hedlights or Halogen? I am trying to determin it without taking them off the car.
No hedlight washers so probably halogen.To check look at the bottom of the lens it should have the bulb type embossed in it, Xenon will have DS1 there.
Xenon should have "D1S" on the lens, not "DS1". Apart from this, your headlights look like they are Xenons.
The lack of headlight washers is not a 100% proof for halogen lights,it depends on the legislation of the market were the car was sold whether the headlight washers were mandatory, or only available as an option.
In my experience, insurance companies don't source parts from salvage. I don't know about Haggerty, because they do specialize in cars that may not have new stuff available any more.
That experience comes from my Miata being damaged when my garage door blew open and the ceiling came down during Hurricane Michael. The car had significant cosmetic damage and a bent roof bow. The cost of a new top from Mazda put it over the threshold for being totaled, as they would not pay for me to go to eBay for a used frame with a new aftermarket top. The adjuster told me that without the top damage I would have gotten 2 new panels and a paint job.
They totaled it, I bought it back for 1600 bucks, put an eBay frame and a Robbins top on it, and have been driving it daily for the 5 years since! Still has all of the cosmetic damage, a few dents, some scraped areas, and peeling clearcoat, but is mechanically near perfect. I sure would have liked to have that paint job!!! The cost of bodywork and paint to make it like I want it is not within the value of the car, especially with the "rebuilt" title, so it will get uglier over time as I continue to enjoy driving it.
Good luck. That may go the same route, being totaled, buying it back, and getting salvage parts to fix it.
As others have pointed out, the "circle" does not determine the gas in the bulb (xenon or halogen), even halogen bulbs may be used in combination with a projector (the magnifying lens)
Also when I wasn't sure about mine, I was told that halogens would have a manual leveling in the button cluster. This though, according to the Owner's Manual, is not true: "No manual control of headlamp levelling is required on this vehicle. The air suspension will keep the vehicle level."
what you say about projector lens being either xenon or halogen may apply to other cars, but on the X350 the projector is definitely Xenon only, the halogen lamps look different.
Also, as already said before in this thread, on the headlights you will find the type of bulb enagraved on the glass, for the xenons "D1S" in this case.
The insurance adjuster will likely total the vehicle as it wouldn't take much at all to total the Jaguar. Actually, I experienced a similar situation on the expressway in Grand Rapids, Michigan some three years ago when a piece of rubber debris struck the right front of my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L.There was a line of cars ahead of me on the left lane so I couldn't see the rubber debris until the last moment. Fortunately, the damage was largely contained to the bumper cover (it ended up missing) so it was a cheap and easy fix.
Absolutely Thomas! I did not mean to suggest there's any doubt about these particular being xenons.
I myself was questioning mine cca 1 month ago when pondering whether to upgrade to bi-xenons. (€150, from Netherland, not sure I am allowed to post links here...?)
...naturally, first I needed to know if my car had xenons in the first place, and the "D1S" label was what resolved that question.
(I am yet to install the bi-xenons BTW, seems like that job is better done with the bumper cover off, which itself is a 2-person job.)
Cheers
Jarda
Last edited by Jaroslav Záruba; 11-17-2023 at 06:14 PM.
Absolutely Thomas! I did not mean to suggest there's any doubt about these particular being xenons.
I myself was questioning mine cca 1 month ago when pondering whether to upgrade to bi-xenons. (€150, from Netherland, not sure I am allowed to post links here...?)
...naturally, first I needed to know if my car had xenons in the first place, and the "D1S" label was what resolved that question.
(I am yet to install the bi-xenons BTW, seems like that job is better done with the bumper cover off, which itself is a 2-person job.)
Cheers
Jarda
Hi Jarda,
no issue, I did understand it differently and just wanted to clarify.
Interesting that you say that you found an upgrade to bi-xenons for only 150 EUR? What does this comprise?
As far as I know, the difference between bi-xenons and xenons is not that with bi-xenons there are additional xenon bulbs for the hi-beam (which is what I thought when hearing the term bi-xenon for the first time), but that there is a flap mechanism in the headlight assembly (where the projector lens is), permitting the switch between low beam and high beam by still using only the one xenon bulb. The bulb the second headlight, used for the "flash-to-pass" feature, remains a halogen one in any case.
If you look into the technical guides here under point 18 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enance-246865/
you will find the detailed description of the lighting assembly on page 147 forwards in the descriptions for the 2004/2005 MYs.
That said, for me this would mean that you can only go from xenon to bi-xenon by replacing the whole headlight assemblies, and it would be really cheap to find them for only 150 EUR. If they want to sell you additional bulbs only, be aware! There are so called conversions out there that seem cheap, but are actually illegal and would bring more problems than benefits.
You are correct, insurance companies nor any reputable indie will use a salvaged part. There is no warranty on said part. That said, some indies, body shops, glass shops, etc. and with insurance approval, will use a third party new part so be sure to read your insurance policy for a clause that gives the owner the right to accept an OEM only.
My own story: A few weeks ago my windshield tested the validity of the Mohs Hardness Scale using a non-selected rock and it put a big spider in the glass. My insurance sent me to Safelight and both the manager there and myself noticed the replacement glass was not OEM. No problem, the OEM windshield was ordered from a Jaguar dealer and installed properly. Then the hounds of hell were released.
The clips for the chrome molding were missing. Another call to Jaguar. The chrome molding arrived at Safelight creased and bent. Another call and another week. Too, the senior technician assigned to my car was out sick for a week so the XJ-8 was in the shop for five (5) weeks. I probably could have driven the car without the molding but had I another/window damaged the red tape at the insurance company would have strangled me. The weather was nice so I lowered the top on the '89 Wrangler and carried on. Lessons learned: always follow up with the shop and get to know the shop manager and the tech handling your automobile. It's good to be nice.
I was out for a while and still be, too many things hapening at the same time, and organizing car repair is not helping workload.
Any way, I want ot report on progress:
Insurance company nor highly recomended shop did not even blink when I mentioned used parts: printed receipts from e-bay were quite sufficient. Insurance gladly reimburst me for cot of parts delivered. Body shop said no problem, they have not seen parts yet, just said they will adjust pricing depending on amount prep work they will have to do. Parts are fine, some paint scratches.
I am actually thinking about sandblasting exterior surfaces, but I better talk to body shop before.doing that.
I have one question, I want to ask forum members, I am good at turning wrenches and troubleshoot electrical connections, but when it comes to painting, unless it is shed in woods, you do not want me doing it. So, multiple body shops telling me that they can't match paint on the car unless they overspary it on adjecent panels; in my case, it is front door on passanger side and driver side fender.
That means they will have to take front passanger door apart, to remove door handle, crome trim on lower glass edge and exterior mirror. I am very concearn them taking door apart, breaking plastic clips, not connecting something, not paying attention and so on. All that to remove and reaply clear coat. I would think it should be possible to match paint and paint parts before installation and not to deal with overspray and masking and apply cleaar coat only on replaced parts..
What is wrong with my logic?
But that again: I am not experienced with painting technologies.
Regards....
As far as I know, overspraying is the best way to march paints.
Regarding your concerns about taking the door apart, my main concern would be the chrome trim on the lower glass edge, they can easily bend if not removed carefully.
Removing the door card to access the handle is quite easy, it is mostly screws and the clips used fortunately are not of sort breaking by just looking at them. I did it a few months ago to replace the door lock on my front drivers door. The workshop manual shows the process quite well, and there is a good recent thread in the forum which also shows the removal process: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...repair-132821/
Best regards,
Thomas
Last edited by Thomas-S.; 12-09-2023 at 09:13 AM.
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