XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

RTV on a water pump?

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  #21  
Old 02-03-2017 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Box
You should never use tap water in an aluminum engine/cooling system. Electrolysis is the result of electricity flowing through your cooling system and causing an electrochemical charge across the aluminum. This results in rapid corrosion and severe damage to the components in your cooling system including discoloration, pitting, flaking, and pinholes.
+1 distilled water only!
 
  #22  
Old 02-03-2017 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by abonano
I installed a metal impeller pump on my 00 S Type & use OAT coolant. Issue free...
Ford has been changing some of their impellers to metal, and are generally recommending HOAT instead with them.
 
  #23  
Old 02-03-2017 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Box
Ford has been changing some of their impellers to metal, and are generally recommending HOAT instead with them.
Cool, thanks for the heads up on this... My original pump with plastic impeller didn't fair too well finding bits in the plastic thermostat housing.

I can't remember if the impeller is aluminum (which is possible) or metal... It's been a while and I don't want to jinx myself as my cooling system is totally behaving!
 
  #24  
Old 02-03-2017 | 07:20 PM
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Just as a point of reference, this is the true Jaguar part and gasket. No sealant is required on this gasket.
 
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  #25  
Old 02-03-2017 | 09:52 PM
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And for comparison to the OE Jaguar pump in David's photo, here's the Airtex AW4124 pump. Note the similarity in the impellers:
 
Attached Thumbnails RTV on a water pump?-airtex-x350-water-pump.jpg  

Last edited by Don B; 02-03-2017 at 09:56 PM.
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2017 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Don B
David, excellent catch. The impeller in that ACDelco pump does appear to be stamped steel, which is incompatible with the correct OAT coolant that Jaguar specifies.

My understanding is that OAT coolants provide good protection for aluminum but are antagonistic to steel and solders and do not protect them from cavitation erosion. One reference is at this link:

Engine Coolant Testing

One option is the Airtex AW4124 pump, which has a proper white plastic impeller and is just $32.79 from Rock Auto. Airtex is an OEM for Ford, GM, Chrysler and other major automakers. The Ford Motorcraft pump may also be a good choice. It has the same type of white plastic impeller that looks identical to the one in the Airtex pump, and it is likely made by Airtex, but Rock Auto's price is significantly higher at $115.79.

Cheers,

Don

Interesting discussion. I am using Dex-Cool and had not heard about it causing steel corrosion before.

When my 06SV8 was overheating last September, Some here suggested the cause might be the water pump's plastic impeller slipping and that replacing the water pump with one with a metal impeller would cure it. I did replace the water pump with one ordered from the local O'Reillys Auto Parts store.

The first $45 MasterPro 58-612 pump did not look like the one I had removed, did not include a gasket, and had two fewer bolt holes than the old pump so they decided someone had put the wrong pump in the right box and ordered another one. When it came in they said it cost $85, but they would knock it down to $65 because of the first mix-up. This pump had a black plastic impeller and on the box it said: “The OE manufacturer has changed the housing design on this water pump.”and that this is the “new design” and may be different from the “old design” pump you removed which used “a plastic insert with an O-ring and a gasket” and “the new housing is all metal with a gasket.” It came with a plain paper gasket and I used #2 non-hardening gasket cement on both sides of the gasket and installed it with anti-seize on the four pump bolts.

The impeller in the old pump (also black plastic if I remember correctly) did not slip and I determined that my overheat problem was caused by gradual coolant loss from a leak. The leak may have been at the back of the mechanical pump because I did notice coolant there when I removed it so replacing it may have helped, but I also worked on the IC pump and replaced brushes in the auxiliary pump at the same time so the leak might have been elsewhere. In any case all has been well with no leaks since September 2016 and no overheating.


 
Attached Thumbnails RTV on a water pump?-new-water-pump-3-.jpg   RTV on a water pump?-new-water-pump-5-.jpg   RTV on a water pump?-new-water-pump-8-.jpg  
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2017 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by philwarner
This pump had a black plastic impeller and on the box it said: “The OE manufacturer has changed the housing design on this water pump.”and that this is the “new design” and may be different from the “old design” pump you removed which used “a plastic insert with an O-ring and a gasket” and “the new housing is all metal with a gasket.” [snip]

The impeller in the old pump (also black plastic if I remember correctly)
Early X100s and X308s had black Nylon 66 impellers, which were known to deteriorate, and were subsequently revised to black polyphenyl sulfide (PPS). Early S-Types had the black PPS impellers but those were subsequently changed to white poly phenyl sulfide. Jaguar specified that pumps with black Nylon 66 impellers should be replaced but that those with black PPS impellers did not need to be replaced. Orange OAT Extended Life Coolant (XLC) was specified for all S-Types and all X350s. Here are a couple of relevant TSBs - I think there were others:

TSB 303-60 Coolant Pumps - Identifying Impeller Materials - Pump Replacement Guidelines

TSB S100-06 Extended Life Coolant (XLC) - Identification - Precautions


Cheers,

Don
 

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