Been a while since I posted being sick and busy with remodeling the house. I am finally able to get to the water leak under the S/C. I'm right up to the point that the S/C is ready to pull except 2 stripped bolts on the left side of the thermostat housing.

My first instinct was to break the housing up with a hammer and replace it after I got the bolts out with vise grips or ez outs until I looked up the cost of a housing. Tipping the scales on the 800 side so that idea went out the door.

Can the S/C be tricked around the housing and pulled out the back? If not the only other choice is to drill the heads off!

 

So those would be the two bolts at the outlet to the cylinder head?

If they are stripped, you'll have to get them out and heli-coil since they *will* leak.

My "trick" for this situation is to turn the fastener while levering outwards with a thin screwdriver or putty knife. The fastener is no longer stuck, it just needs to catch enough thread to wind out.

On the other hand, if you mean the fastener heads are rounded, then someone else might chime in with whether the SC can be wiggled out towards the firewall.

For rounded fastener heads I like vise grips adjusted so tight that you can barely squeeze the handles to lock the grips. Be careful when you unlock, the handles will fly apart and rap your knuckles really good

Before using the vise grips, hammer on the fastener heads with a punch to break the corrosion. Some penetrating fluid would be helpful. You are working with steel fasteners threaded into aluminum. Corrosion heaven.

 

This sounds familiar! https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...warned-105468/

When it happened to me apart from the thermostat housing one breaking, it was also one of the bolts holding the housing into the block, the torx stripped in the head (left side when looking at the engine from the front).

The thread repair guy that came round drilled the head off that bolt with a large drill bit and a special right-angle or 90º drill. Then extracted the remains of the bolt, I presume with pliers or an ezi-out.

 

The Torxs recess is what is stripped. I guess I'm not even close to getting the S/C off since I can't see how it fastens in the back.

Can anyone give me a clue as what HAS to be removed from the rear. I have a bad back and hip so climbing over the fender and laying down is the only way I reach.

RC Snyder post this picture in another thread. Looks like a bolt goes thru the bracket at the back?

 

Same bolt on my mine was a problem not from loktite but because it hangs out the back and is open to the air. It was dragging corrosion all the way thru the treads. That one did come out though. What fasteners did you up grade to?

 

In regards to the supercharger removal process, you need to read this thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-repair-38911/

As for the bolts, I just went to a local industrial fastener place & got whatever they had in high tensile for that size. They didn't have them with Torx head so I had to get hex head & used an Allen key. The trick is to use anti-seize paste.

 

10/4 on the anti seize got a can in the shop. I'll read thread!

 

can you take a picture of what you're dealing with?

 

Are you referring to the stripped Torqs bolts heads or the leak? If the leak please see the hyper link Cambo posted a few entries above. I do plan on adding a few pics if I find something of interest that has not been covered.

 

Yes, pics of the stripped bolts. It may give people a better idea on how best to remove them.

 

Cool, I'll do what I can!

 

I've just done this hose replacement. to get the s/c off you must remove the throttle body, throttle body elbow and egr valve in order to access the rear bolt securing the s/c. There are a couple of gaskets you may need to replace.

Here's a link provide to me by rcsnyder that may help.
http://www.mediafire.com/?x11yhijup29yt#8viyccmusy9t1

Also, a tip from another member on removing the EGR: After separating it from the throttle body take out the bolts holding it to the exhaust manifold and remove the valve and tube as a unit.

I have a shop manual if you need more info.

Good luck

BTW - I think it's worth posting this entire coolant system repair procedure in tech tips. I'll do it if someone can tell me how. Moderator?

 

I did mine recently as well. The EGR bolts were a pain. I found it easier to remove the right side catalytic converter and access them from below with some extensions. I removed the EGR and Tube as an assembly. This required raising the car off the ground.

Woodford Jag

 

Wow, by the time I got to the EGR, if I would have had to go under the car, I'd still be on beer break!

Fortunately I found this post "Str supercharger removal" in the s type forum. Although the valve is not exactly the same there was enough similarity to show me how to get the unit out from up top. After wrestling with the other bolts on the throttle body these were pretty easy.

One more thing, there's a metal gasket at the bottom of the tube.

 

Now that is a tip, or could be more frozen and stripped fasteners. LOL I'm close to getting to the EGR after I ripped out the shock tower supports and the air box.
I'm still wondering if it will help to remove the entire plastic close out that supports the rubber grommets for the those supports. EGR first LOL

 

Liquid wrench helped with the bolts at the exhaust manifold for the converter to manifold flange. I could barely see the EGR bolts from the top muchless get my hand or any tools around to access them. From the bottom I could get better sight and access.

I also purchased a 1/4 flexible extension drive that had a geared head from Harbor Freight that helped removal and install of the throttle body/ supercharger elbow bolts.

To me, taking it apart was more difficult than putting it back together.

Be patient and good luck.

Woodford Jag

 

If you had a gas wrench everything comes apart easy!

 

Ok I'm going to attempt to make some sense out of this post. First off left/right is seated from the drivers seat.

The right hand top bolt is not accessible with a drill unless you get a really long "Jobber" length bit. Fortunate for me both right hand bolts came out.

The Thermo housing proved to be a bit in the way. If I was going to try and helicoil with that in place it would have been a mess. to just drill the heads off it work out perfect on the top bolt. May still have enough to use a stud extractor to remove. The lower is a off center and I went to deep because I was doing the drill blind. May have to helicoil this one, but I'm hoping with enough pentrating oil and a few smacks with a hammer and some heat it will come out.

To drill these out I stepped it up a bit starting with and 1/8" bit and ending short of 1/4. The top popped right off the bottom took a few tries due to it not being centered.

I had to remove the water pump pulley for clearance for the drill. I was a bit surprised to see that the square holes to relieve tense on the belt where not the same as the S/C tensioner. S/C is 1/2" while the main belt is 3/8".

I included a few picture of the KD tool I used. Had the tool for close to 18 years and never used it till today! BTW I had a few helpers on and off this morning. Any question?

 

Not one but both bolts back out with finger pressure! I have only had that happen a few times in 40 years of wrenching.

 

I got a little over zealous and removed the servo from EGR valve, I was wondering why everyone thought this was so fricking hard........ well now I know.

Not sure if I should trust just snapping it back in place or drop 375.00 for a new one. Has anyone else made this mistake that would like to share??

I'm back at it tomorrow afternoon. EGR be gone...