Hi All,

New to the group. I just acquired a 2008 XJ8 and finding a couple of faults that my current code reader is not able to report on. Seems like the SDD software is the way to go along with a OBD2-USB cable. Does anyone recommend a particular vendor or set-up? I also have Volvo's and Ford's in the family which may also be able to use this as I understand it depending on the model years.

Thank you!

 

Hi,
i use a SDD 130.x version with a mangoose china clone interface , both sourced from http://britishdiagnostics.co.uk/ . Seems to be a one man show, so be patience an don't expect personal support.

Runs fine under XP, but it is recommended to have a native system, not a vitual machine. Also you should be aware of a stable onbord power supply, i have a CTEK charger connected to the battery while working with SDD.
Fritz

 

CTEK is not suitable at all as has been mentioned many times for obvious reasons as it cannot maintain battery charge required for a long programming session.If you do not plan
on programming/flashing anything you will be fine and I only flash something as a last resort as so many people have bricked the ECU etc by not doing things properly.

I have JLR SDD v 130.?? which I bought from the above source and it is running on a dedicated laptop with W XP Professional and also a genuine Mangoose cable. I did have a Chinese clone but that lasted a year and died.

It is a pita to set up and you do have to "freeze" the date and time to something like August 1st 2012 otherwise it will time out. However I have found it to be extremely useful in avoiding mechanics and checking things out along with my iCarsoft i930.

 

I concur totally.
No Ctek, you better have a real power supply able to withstand tens of Amps to avoid issues.
Also SDD v130 + calibration files from the very same supplier.
And a genuine VCM if you can find/affford one (as I did) and a clone Mongoose (to start with, and as far as you don't reprogram), plus an iCarsoft residing in the car

 

paydase mentions calibration files and that is important.

I recently purchased another copy of JLR SDD from the UK and it was without the calibration files.

So "complained", even tho it was my inattention to the listing on Ebay, and the vendor allowed me to download those files.

I lost my original disks and thought my installation was corrupt. Have since found copies on my desktop.

 

Hi Guys ,
try keep your feet on the ground, nobody is talking about programming, flashing or coding in hour lasting sessions. The task is just OBD Diagnosis and nothing more. Therefore CTEK is o.k , if you want to have a better feeling choose the PRO25S.

I have no doubt that genuine equipment (Rotunda VCM or Drewtech Mogoose, VMM and Original power supply) could do it all better, but apart from availability and cost, you crack a walnut with a sledgehammer.
Fritz

 

Which is why I mentioned the iCarsoft i930 as did paydase so do not get your knickers in a twist.

I was really addressing post #2.

 

"However I have found it to be extremely useful in avoiding mechanics ..........................

 

So it seems like there are a couple of versions of the sdd software to consider. All can let you read information for troubleshooting. If you want to do any programming make sure to have a good power source setup to make sure the electronics are not going to have much of a power deviation. Also, should have a dedicated XP or Windows 7 system to run it.

I have an older Actron scanner and a Zurich zr13 scanner, the Zurich is newer and more complete, but I am getting SRS and Air Suspension faults with no codes read. I am not sure if these are odd "phantom" faults that may be tied to a ground issue or a code that I am not able to read with what I have.

On the iCarsoft, I do not see a 930 option anymore but it seems like the CR Pro may do more than what I already have.

Any other advice or thoughts. Maybe I can find someone near me with an add that I could check out and really see what direction to go. I am in the Northeast of the US (NH).

 

Let me throw in my two cents. SDD is the tool Jaguar Technicians use. It is required for programming modules and yes, it's a laptop based tool. The world is full of knock offs and bad software. But there are plenty of good versions of software as well.

You don't need anything newer that V130 imo but check me on that. Each version is created because more model years are added. Seldom are updates added to older models with these versions.

The software is Slow and Kludgy so a dedicated laptop is recommended. You must have a dedicated power source when programming. No you don't need a dedicated power source to read and clear codes.

The software will read all 7 digits of a DTC whereas most handhelds will only read the first five digits. That said, the first five will probably be enough for 95% of your diagnosis

No the Volvo and Ford versions are not interchangeable and you cannot use the VCM on those cars. The SDD software is specific ti Jaguar and Land Rover.

So the question you want to ask yourself, is will you/ do you plan on reprogramming? If not, consider a handheld.
Also know that while many modules can replaced as plug and play (like a bluetooth module for example), some require the use of SDD to install (ECU, TCM etc.) This need is not common and most never attempt it on their own.

For a quality SDD system, you'll probably invest $800 - $1000 including a power supply.

I've attached Jaguar approved dongles. Also the recommended power supply is a midtronic. I use an Action RM 50. I'll attach the info too.

The ICarsoft LRII will read and clear codes. 90% of what you will need as a DIY'er. and you don't need a power source to read and clear codes. Hope this helps.

 

This is great information, I really appreciate it. Agreed that a regular scanner can cover most everything for troubleshooting. I picked up a iCarsoft CR Pro to see how it works compared to what I already have. It does pick up more detail, but clearly not the full codes the add will cover (as mentioned above already).

I'll run an update on the CR Pro and see what else I am able to see as out of the box was limited a bit. The add looks to be the best choice if looking to pinpoint issues (parking sensors, specific little errors).

The battery does seem to be fine holding 12.7-8 not running and 13.8-9 when running. I would prefer to see around 14.2 ish when running, but the electronics seem to be so sensitive. It does look to be a general-purpose Interstate battery H8, but not an AGM battery type. perhaps going to the AGM style would help with any of the little electrical faults that are showing up?

I think my:
- SRS error is clockspring related and should be a simple pull apart, clean, and reseat.
- Air suspension fault, but no issues, drooping etc. could be any of a number of things in the stickies section that I have not had a chance to dig thru yet
- A couple of other minor behind the scenes errors that are not throwing any issue but all seem to be some type of current related errors
This is why I am thinking about the battery, but wanted to dig in a bit further before just throwing random parts at it, then you never learn what really was the issue.

Thanks again!

 

An AGM will not deliver an higher voltage and will degrafe faster than a silver-calcium battery, which is the type of battery required by the electronics/electricity of the X350/358.
Varta silver-calcium is of this type and can be sourced in Europe.
I understand that in the US only some Exide batteries are of that type.