I have decided to keep my air suspension around for a bit longer. I do need to remove at least the front units to replace other suspension components, but I believe the rears can stay in place and attached at the air line.

Question is - Anything I know should when removing the front dampers and re-installing them? Just remove CATs connector, remove air line, and replace when finished? Wasn't sure if there was anything I should do in order to assure a proper seal on the air line when re-installing an original unit.

 

You may need to replace pieces of the air line connection. The fittings may not seal after being removed. It's likely you'd even have to cut the line back to use a new section to reconnect.

Also, be careful removing the air line. There are actually two pieces to it. The air line fits connects on top of what looks like a receiving connector, but is actually a separately removable pressure release valve which is there to prevent the air bladder from completely emptying when the air line is loosened. Air will escape when the line is loosened, but the valve retains enough air in the strut's bag to keep it from going completely flat, which could damage it. It's possible when trying to loosen the air line fitting that you actually begin spinning the release valve out of the strut, which is not what you want to do.

 

Thank you, good info. I think I know what you mean - On the brass fitting it looks like there is a top and bottom section. I only want to remove the tope section, correct? Is there an o-ring on that fitting that should be replaced while I have it off?

Also - As far as leveling sensors, as long as I remove them from the arms and put them back where they were I shouldn't have any issues with having to get the system reset correct?

 

It's not an O-ring, its a compression fitting with a little brass sleeve that clamps on the plastic tube. Just release the air pressure slowly, and keep the mating parts clean while you're working. I applied "vacuum grease" (very thick grease) to mine when I put them back and everything has been fine. Also don't forget to disconnect the height sensor(s) on the lower control arm.

I don't know if they all do this, but my car refuses to re-pressurize the struts until it is moved a few feet. I back it out of the garage on flat struts and let it sit running and in a few minutes the compressor will kick on and everything comes to life.

I am very glad that I have kept my air suspension working. I think it's part of the character of the car and when you load up with 4 people or a Costco run it's very satisfying to watch it come right back up to level, AND settle back down when everyone hops out.

Good Luck
Jeff

 

Great, thank you! That's pretty much what I thought, just wanted to confirm. I will be removing the leveling sensor anyway since I'm swapping all of the control arms, I'll be sure to put it back in the exact same spot and hopefully avoid any issues. Have never heard of vacuum grease, but I'll look into it, good idea.

Yea, I think they all do that after going into jacking mode. I just had mine on stands last weekend for brake work and when I let it down the front was slammed on the ground and the rear was at the highest setting (I jacked the front first so this makes sense - computer tries to compensate for the difference until it realizes its being jacked). Luckily I live on a nice quiet street about 1/4 long and always about halfway down I can feel the car leveling and releasing pressure from the rear. Always worries me when I let it down from the jacks that it won't go back to normal, but so far it has every time.

 

One trick I have learned is to sneak up on the car while she's sleeping and get her up on stands before all the air goes out of the shocks. I'm able to do routine work without having to wait for the shocks to refill or re-set everything after a battery disconnect. This won't be helpful if you're removing the shocks tho...

Jeff

 

I have attached the official instructions that come with the Bilstein air shocks for both front and rear, I hope that they help.
They are both in German and English. The German version comes first, so just scroll down in the documents to reach the English section.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

These are great instructions and I used them for my car. The only problem is at the end where they say the car will raise itself up off the jack when you slowly lower to a certain height. My 2005 car never read those instructions because it NEVER raises until it's been rolled about 10 ft or so.

 

Thank you, very helpful. Also looks very straight-forward. I did not that they said to inspect and replace the o-ring for the air line if necessary. Can anyone verify this and if so happen to know the size of the o-ring so I can order replacements?

 

Yes, same here as I said before. Always have to drive the car to get her aired up.

 

I replaced all 4 of the air shocks and it worked every time. It just took some time for the car to raise.

 

Kudos for keeping the air suspension. It is very important to jack the car up on all 4 corners (even of you are only working on the front) then (and only then) put the car "to sleep" by disconnecting the battery. Reconnect it after all the sensors are back where they belong, but before taking the car off the jackstands.

 

Thank you, that's helpful. I would have probalby disconnected the battery before jacking it up so good to know. Also good to know to reconnect the battery before letting it down. Thanks again.

And yes, I'm glad I have decided to keep the suspension, it makes the car what it is. Would be a lot easier to just swap it, but don't want it to feel like a "normal" car. Have plenty of those already.

Still wondering about o-rings if anyone has unput on that. Would like to have them on hand before I start the job just in case they're needed.

 

87LC2: I think you missed the part of my first response where I explain that there are NO O-rings involved with replacing the air shocks. It's a re-usable compression fitting.

Jeff

 

I saw it Jeff, I was just asking again because the Bilstein guide makes it clear to check the o-ring and replace if necessary. Not doubting you since you've done it before, but wondering why they mentioned that? Also thought I've read about people replacing o-rings to seal leaks on the past, but couldnt find the thread.

 

At least with my car, there definitely are o-rings, I replaced them with the one provided by Bilstein with the new shocks.

I still have the old shocks and can check the dimensions of the o-ring over the weekend.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

That would be great, thank you. I ordered o-rings for the PCV/breather systems last week so have a good source just need dimensions if you don't mind.

 

No problem, I will revert as soon as I've measured them.

 

One other thing you may consider is that the upper control arms can only be changed out when the front strut is removed. The mounting bolts are removed to the inside and only come out with the strut out of the way. If you think that the bushings and upper ball joint look tired it is a good time to think about changing them.

 

Hi,
I have been able to measure one of the o-rings today, please refer to the picture.


I hope that it helps.

Best regards,

Thomas