Spark Plug Replacement - Help
#1
Spark Plug Replacement - Help
I'm at the point where I should change the plugs in my XJR and have run into a snag: extracting the coils. I can only get 3 of 8 to slide out.
Is there a trick to this?
Oh, and in case anyone is curious, the original plugs are NGK iridium. I've got a set of Bosch iridium at the ready once I can figure out how to extract the darn things.
Is there a trick to this?
Oh, and in case anyone is curious, the original plugs are NGK iridium. I've got a set of Bosch iridium at the ready once I can figure out how to extract the darn things.
#2
#3
Re: Coil Boot(s)
Be careful, slowly twist back & forth else you'll need new coils! You can try a LITE spray of WD40 easing the straw into the channel then twisting slightly back & forth! Be PATIENT!!! Before re-installation lube the boots with di-electric grease! We always used this procedure with Direct Ignition Cassettes to prevent this issue as well as Arc-Over in the SAAB Services!
#4
if you have an air compressor and an unrestricted modified air blower with around a 10" 1/8 or 1/4" tube extension you can try this: insert the blowers tube down into spark plug area and give it a couple of sprays of air.the blasts will hopefully break the seal of the spark plug boot. i have had good luck with this procedure on some cars(have yet to try it on a jag though), so long as you can snake and squeeze the tube past the coil and down into spark plug area it may work for you. a long dull dental type u-hook or L pick can also work provided you can get it past the coil. idea is to catch the bottom of spark plug boot and break the seal/vacuum/stuck by pulling at the base of boot with pick.oh, and dont forget to twist and pull at the same time.
Last edited by prelude4ws; 08-16-2011 at 12:45 AM.
#5
Okay, so maybe I didn't describe this adequately, so let me try again:
There is not enough clearance between the engine and the fender to pull out the coils on 5 of 8 cylinders. They are not stuck; there simply is not enough room to pull them clear of the head.
There must be a trick to this.
Thanks again.
There is not enough clearance between the engine and the fender to pull out the coils on 5 of 8 cylinders. They are not stuck; there simply is not enough room to pull them clear of the head.
There must be a trick to this.
Thanks again.
#6
i have changed these plugs over 20 times...I understand the clearance near the firewall. .its tight but pull the back coils directly up and tilt slightly towards the front of the car...after its disconnected...the real trick is extracting the plugs. ..i use a 3/8 2 inch adaptor with a swivel head 360 degree screw ratchet..once the plug has broke free remove the ratchet then use a 3/8 inch 5 inch adaptor to unscrew with your hand...if the plug has pooling in which i check with mirror scope...I blow the oil out first with a air line then use a 24" grapple tool by craftsman.at times you can use a your magnet catcher...if you wish to see pictures of these tools let me know i can send to your email...also make sure you remove the oil dipstick for the driverside also for clearance of the coil
Last edited by 912guy; 08-16-2011 at 06:21 PM.
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#7
let me add also...please use the ngk iridium plugs....i can tell you from experience that you wont get the longevity out of the plugs or performance if you downgrade..I have seen several people try to use platinum plugs because the iridiums are costly...but the platinums file out or cant handle the heat thats generated..The porcelin will crack and or turn brown wihcih is sign of overheating.
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#8
I'll be a little bit more determined, I guess, in removing the coils. I just didn't want to force something that would result in a greater-than-necessary replaceemnt expense.
An earlier post mentioned depth of the Bosch plugs. Side-by-side comparison shows them to be identical to the original NGK.
And, yes, putting in standard or platinum plugs would be mistake. Theconsistant performance over the life of the plud is critical. The last thing this engine needs is misfire or pre-ignition. That could get very expensive, very quickly.
Thanks again.
An earlier post mentioned depth of the Bosch plugs. Side-by-side comparison shows them to be identical to the original NGK.
And, yes, putting in standard or platinum plugs would be mistake. Theconsistant performance over the life of the plud is critical. The last thing this engine needs is misfire or pre-ignition. That could get very expensive, very quickly.
Thanks again.
#10
I'm having some trouble with this myself, mainly on the driver's side where the oil filler and dipstick are. There are several hoses and tubes which crowd the area and I can't seem to get the panel off with disconnecting them, however I have no idea what these tubes and hoses are and how to properly disconnect them. Are there any tips or tricks?
#11
I'm having some trouble with this myself, mainly on the driver's side where the oil filler and dipstick are. There are several hoses and tubes which crowd the area and I can't seem to get the panel off with disconnecting them, however I have no idea what these tubes and hoses are and how to properly disconnect them. Are there any tips or tricks?
#12
I have been using Bosch in my XJS 4.0, XJ6 4.0, XK8 4.0 & S-Type 3.0 for years without a problem. If the plugs I installed were to reduce the performance of the car I can assure I would replace them quickly. The key to this is using the proper plug for the car and gaping the plug properly. The choice of the plugs you want to use is yours just be sure you use a quality plug and torque it properly to factory specs when installing them.
#13
It's time to change the spark plugs; in following this thread I'm now confident as to the proper plugs to install. The process seems quite straight forward once the plastic valve covers are removed. My issue is, I'm hesitant just to rip the covers off and I can't find any clips or screws for removal of it! It's a mystery to me.
Can anyone shed some light on the proper removal of the covers, so i don't rip or crack it?
Thanks for any instruction you can forward>
Can anyone shed some light on the proper removal of the covers, so i don't rip or crack it?
Thanks for any instruction you can forward>
#14
A slight twist and pull and it will come out. This link might help JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
#16
#17
And I thought you were looking for a way to remove the plug coil pack. Sorry! I see I need to pay attention to what I am doing….
It's time to change the spark plugs; in following this thread I'm now confident as to the proper plugs to install. The process seems quite straight forward once the plastic valve covers are removed. My issue is, I'm hesitant just to rip the covers off and I can't find any clips or screws for removal of it! It's a mystery to me.
Can anyone shed some light on the proper removal of the covers, so i don't rip or crack it?
Thanks for any instruction you can forward>
Can anyone shed some light on the proper removal of the covers, so i don't rip or crack it?
Thanks for any instruction you can forward>
#18
Last edited by reyesl; 01-31-2012 at 04:52 PM.
#20
Well, it's done! I replaced the plugs with NGK IRF5N10's. It became a little confusing as to just what the GAP should be. My manual doesn't say and JTIS does not mention the GAP for the 4.2 engine.
NGK say don't adjust the factory setting but frankly they were not consistant, so I adjusted them all to .035. I did see somewhere, that the gap should be between .035 and .039.
Does anyone exactly what the GAP should be and what is the effect of too narrow of a gap?
Beyond that the job was quite easy to perform!
Thanks!
NGK say don't adjust the factory setting but frankly they were not consistant, so I adjusted them all to .035. I did see somewhere, that the gap should be between .035 and .039.
Does anyone exactly what the GAP should be and what is the effect of too narrow of a gap?
Beyond that the job was quite easy to perform!
Thanks!
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