Spark Plug Replacement - Help
#22
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey, thanks so much Gus! That is a VERY handy publication; not sure why I hadn't run across it previously.
It did verify that a Spark Plug GAP between .035 and .039 is acceptable; which is comforting.
Still not sure what the effect of setting the GAP on the high side or low side is to engine operation. My hunch would be the effect is minor but couldn't tell you why.
Thank again for the publication!!!
It did verify that a Spark Plug GAP between .035 and .039 is acceptable; which is comforting.
Still not sure what the effect of setting the GAP on the high side or low side is to engine operation. My hunch would be the effect is minor but couldn't tell you why.
Thank again for the publication!!!
#23
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The first six were easy. I can't get the last two out and I'm stumped. I can get the rear coil up about 1/3 of the way (COP8). That's it. Then, there's the coil in front of that (COP 6). How do I disconnect the brake booster line. or move it? To be honest, every time I'm faced with a new connector, I spend more time trying figure out how to disconnect it. Any suggestions?
The only thing that make sense is doing the steps post #1 of this thread by trosty:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...35/#post838023
Last edited by Zazzy; 06-27-2015 at 11:35 PM. Reason: added the most probably answer
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From Jaguar Documentation
Spark Plug Installation.
Apply 'Neverseez' to the 3-4 threads next to the spark plug electrodes. Fill to full thread depth for 180 degrees of thread circumference.
A CAUTION: Do not contaminate the spark plug electrodes.
Torque spark plugs to 25-29Nm (18.5-21Ib).
Spark Plug Installation.
Apply 'Neverseez' to the 3-4 threads next to the spark plug electrodes. Fill to full thread depth for 180 degrees of thread circumference.
A CAUTION: Do not contaminate the spark plug electrodes.
Torque spark plugs to 25-29Nm (18.5-21Ib).
#25
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The only plug thats difficult really is the rear right when looking from the front of the car as there is not enough clearance with the bulkhead. However, once the panel in the bulkhead is taken out it can be done. I have done this twice now on my 2005XJR within a few days as the 1st set of plugs, recommended by Autozone, gave me significantly worse mileage than the NGK IR plugs that were originally in there.
You can take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir area and push thru underneath the reservoir to push off the cover. That hole is where a socket etc can go thru to get at the plug.
My flash woukld not lite up the arae so I shone a flashlite at it and you can see the lite on the panel.
You can take the cover off the brake fluid reservoir area and push thru underneath the reservoir to push off the cover. That hole is where a socket etc can go thru to get at the plug.
My flash woukld not lite up the arae so I shone a flashlite at it and you can see the lite on the panel.
Last edited by jackra_1; 06-28-2015 at 04:13 PM.
#26
#28
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where? At the hard line on the right (photo #3), back at the rear (photo #2), or in the center?
I've tried to pull it apart at the rear and in the center. The way it feels is that it's a simi-rigid plastic line all the way thru with a rubber sleeve on the outside.
Obviously, it's supposed to disconnect someplace.
I've tried to pull it apart at the rear and in the center. The way it feels is that it's a simi-rigid plastic line all the way thru with a rubber sleeve on the outside.
Obviously, it's supposed to disconnect someplace.
#29
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If I did it would have been in the center. My memory is not that clear. And if I did get it off I know that it was not difficult or I would remember. I also want to think that I simply bent the tube up and back a little and fenagled the cop past it with light force. Again my memory is not clear. I wish I could be of more help.
#30
#31
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If I did it would have been in the center. My memory is not that clear. And if I did get it off I know that it was not difficult or I would remember. I also want to think that I simply bent the tube up and back a little and fenagled the cop past it with light force. Again my memory is not clear. I wish I could be of more help.
#33
#34
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I finished late afternoon.
Here's what worked:
1. I disconnected the fuel line retainer clip.
![](http://www.spikeengineering.com/xjr/Fuellineretainer1.jpg)
2. Lifted both the fuel line and vacuum line up and out the retainer clip and pushed them back out of the way.
![](http://www.spikeengineering.com/xjr/Fuellineretainer2.jpg)
Done (expect for pushing in one plastic retaining pin). It runs smoother.
Here's what worked:
1. I disconnected the fuel line retainer clip.
![](http://www.spikeengineering.com/xjr/Fuellineretainer1.jpg)
2. Lifted both the fuel line and vacuum line up and out the retainer clip and pushed them back out of the way.
![](http://www.spikeengineering.com/xjr/Fuellineretainer2.jpg)
Done (expect for pushing in one plastic retaining pin). It runs smoother.
![](http://www.spikeengineering.com/xjr/IMG_1667.jpg)
Last edited by Zazzy; 06-28-2015 at 11:43 PM.
#35
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Very glad you managed to complete the job Zazzy!
I know this kind of thing can be very frustrating. The XJR has some challenges when you have not tackled them before. For me it was plug #8.
Also It took me a while to replace all front bulbs but people on this forum are very helpful.
Have you done a transmission oil change and a supercharger oil change?
I know this kind of thing can be very frustrating. The XJR has some challenges when you have not tackled them before. For me it was plug #8.
Also It took me a while to replace all front bulbs but people on this forum are very helpful.
Have you done a transmission oil change and a supercharger oil change?
Last edited by jackra_1; 06-29-2015 at 07:15 AM. Reason: Added questions
#36
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks again!
#37
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm approaching the time to replace plugs on the 2004 XJR for the 1st time. I called NKR customer service. The NKR Iridiums(5464) is what I plan on using; however the rep on the phone said the 7866 is longer lasting. The 5464s are more expensive; so, I assume they are likely better. Am I correct that the rep just made a mistake?
Also, as some of you may remember, I have successfully replaced many parts including the breaks with your generous help. Do you think that plug replacement is something I should attempt? I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?
Thanks for your help.
Also, as some of you may remember, I have successfully replaced many parts including the breaks with your generous help. Do you think that plug replacement is something I should attempt? I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?
Thanks for your help.
#38
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 19,581
Received 13,205 Likes
on
6,553 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm approaching the time to replace plugs on the 2004 XJR for the 1st time. I called NKR customer service. The NKR Iridiums(5464) is what I plan on using; however the rep on the phone said the 7866 is longer lasting. The 5464s are more expensive; so, I assume they are likely better. Am I correct that the rep just made a mistake?
I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?
I have an excellent assortment of tools; however, I will most likely need to purchase others. Are there any that have been particularly helpful to you?
The NGK 7866 (IFR5N10) Iridium is the original equipment plug, with a 0.8mm iridium tip on the center electrode and platinum tip on the ground electrode. They are rated to last up to 100K miles, but when I removed ours at 96K, they were well past their prime and probably should have been replaced before 80K miles.
The 5464 (BKR5EIX-11) has a 0.6mm iridium tip on the center electrode and a nickel-core ground electrode without the platinum tip. NGK says it performs slightly better than the 7866, but only lasts up to 60K miles, which probably means 40K in real world use.
Rock Auto carries both plugs at affordable prices.
You can look up specs at the NGK parts finder:
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark-plugs
I think the mileage and performance ratings came from the NGK U.K. site.
Note that NGK says the plugs are pre-gapped, but you should check them anyway to ensure they are set at Jaguar factory specification, 1.0mm or 0.039/0.040 inch. The torque spec for the plugs is 20 ft. lbs. / 27 Nm.
The only extra tools you may want are 3/8-drive 3-inch and 18-inch extensions and a universal joint, as shown in this post:
Don's X350 Cylinder 8 Ratchet Extension Setup
The rest of that thread has some additional tips that may be helpful:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...04-xj8-173652/
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-30-2017 at 02:05 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Don B:
04Xjrsteve (03-30-2017),
paydase (03-31-2017)
#40