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Here's an updated rundown on everything I've tried:
- 3 different types of pads (2 ceramic, 1 semi-metallic)
- 3 different types of rotors (2 blank, 1 drilled/slotted)
- used calipers
- rebuilt calipers
- every type of lube, grease, and shim you can think of
- BG Stop Squeal
- 2 brake fluid flushes
- new wheel hubs
The only thing that made any kind of substantial difference is switching back to blank rotors and semi-metallic pads.
The new rotors seem to have taken care of the cyclical brushing
so I won't discuss using a dial indicator to clock the rotors.
Class 6 brake fluid? No idea what that is.
The proper spec is DOT4 Super from ITT. At least it is for the X308.
The Super arises because while there is an applicable European spec,
there was none in FMVSS that matched.
By reading the original ITT literature, one can surmise that the Super
implies low viscosity. One such fluid is ATE SL-6. Pentosin also has
a similiar fluid. Commonly used in late VW/AUDI for ABS. The low
viscosity allows for better ABS modulation.
My brakes used to groan on departing for the first drive of the day.
While chasing other things it has disappeared. There are no shims
or grease on my OEM pads. Just the inside pad spring clip that goes
into the piston recess.
One thing that you have not tried is to remove the rubber bush that
surrounds the slider pins and remove all the corrosion in there. The
corrosion pinches the bush which in turn pinches the pin. Then the
caliper does not move freely. Another thing is that the pins have been
known to bend. Again resulting in the caliper not moving too well.
You might also try changing braking style for a few days. Be much
firmer throughout the braking cycle. If this stops the noise, then
at least you'll know.
Finally, have you considered whether the master or abs system is
chattering the fluid?
After all this, I finally realised I am in the 2004+ section. So
if none of the above applies you can ignore it completely.
ps. I would not discount the TSB. The reason it might say 2006 is
could be simply that other years left the factory with better lubrication.
ATE brakes are ATE brakes. I have dressed those surfaces with a fine
file and lubricated them.
The new rotors seem to have taken care of the cyclical brushing
so I won't discuss using a dial indicator to clock the rotors.
Class 6 brake fluid? No idea what that is.
The proper spec is DOT4 Super from ITT. At least it is for the X308.
The Super arises because while there is an applicable European spec,
there was none in FMVSS that matched.
By reading the original ITT literature, one can surmise that the Super
implies low viscosity. One such fluid is ATE SL-6. Pentosin also has
a similiar fluid. Commonly used in late VW/AUDI for ABS. The low
viscosity allows for better ABS modulation.
My brakes used to groan on departing for the first drive of the day.
While chasing other things it has disappeared. There are no shims
or grease on my OEM pads. Just the inside pad spring clip that goes
into the piston recess.
One thing that you have not tried is to remove the rubber bush that
surrounds the slider pins and remove all the corrosion in there. The
corrosion pinches the bush which in turn pinches the pin. Then the
caliper does not move freely. Another thing is that the pins have been
known to bend. Again resulting in the caliper not moving too well.
You might also try changing braking style for a few days. Be much
firmer throughout the braking cycle. If this stops the noise, then
at least you'll know.
Finally, have you considered whether the master or abs system is
chattering the fluid?
After all this, I finally realised I am in the 2004+ section. So
if none of the above applies you can ignore it completely.
ps. I would not discount the TSB. The reason it might say 2006 is
could be simply that other years left the factory with better lubrication.
ATE brakes are ATE brakes. I have dressed those surfaces with a fine
file and lubricated them.
ATE SL.6 is a low viscosity ISO 4925 Class 6 fluid. Super DOT4 is not Class 6, but Class 4, same as regular DOT4. Pentosin LV is also ISO 4925 Class 6. The system on your X308 is Teves Mk20, the X350 Teves Mk25, with ESP and EBA. They are much different systems.
One thing that you have not tried is to remove the rubber bush thatsurrounds the slider pins and remove all the corrosion in there. The corrosion pinches the bush which in turn pinches the pin. Then the
caliper does not move freely. Another thing is that the pins have been
known to bend. Again resulting in the caliper not moving too well.
The caliper pins and their rubber boots were inspected, cleaned, lubed, and even swapped out at one point. No deal.
Originally Posted by plums
You might also try changing braking style for a few days. Be much firmer throughout the braking cycle. If this stops the noise, then at least you'll know.
I'll try to give this a shot. It is difficult because I'm stuck in Los Angeles traffic every day, so there's a lot of slow braking (which I know is a cause of glazing).
Originally Posted by plums
Finally, have you considered whether the master or abs system is chattering the fluid?
I'm not sure what you mean by "chattering the fluid"?
Originally Posted by plums
ps. I would not discount the TSB. The reason it might say 2006 iscould be simply that other years left the factory with better lubrication.ATE brakes are ATE brakes. I have dressed those surfaces with a finefile and lubricated them.
I have considered this and will probably give it a shot once I decide to tear into the brakes again.
I was complaining yesterday that the brake power had been reduced by the bedding-in procedure. Thankfully I can say that it is slowly returning to normal. Power was much better today, but still not as good as it had been. Hopefully that will return to spec within a few more days.
Come to think of it, the one thing I neglected to swap out is the caliper mounting bracket. I did inspect them, and they seemed fine. But now I'm wondering if perhaps they (or even the bolts) are flexing under pressure.
ATE SL.6 is a low viscosity ISO 4925 Class 6 fluid. Super DOT4 is not Class 6, but Class 4, same as regular DOT4. Pentosin LV is also ISO 4925 Class 6. The system on your X308 is Teves Mk20, the X350 Teves Mk25, with ESP and EBA. They are much different systems.
UPDATE: Last Wednesday I decided to tear into the brakes again. I had 2 bottles of BG Stop Squeal left, so I figured what the hell, why not? I used up the entire two bottles on all four front pads and lubed and greased up everything. This part may sound odd, but I found some testimonials online and I was willing to try anything...I used 3M double-sided body molding tape to stick the outboard pads to the caliper arms. I decided against using the tape on the piston side.
Anyways, 1 week later and the squeal is 95% gone. The cyclical chirp I had before changing my rotors is back, but it doesn't happen all the time and its barely noticeable, so I will take that deal! My braking power has also returned and my creep groan has been substantially reduced. All in all, it's been a very good week. I'm hoping this will continue for a good long time.
Embarrassed... Well everyone, I decided to do the brake job today and I'm embarrassed to say that I found the problem likely causing my brake noise. Thankfully I realized the problem the moment I took the wheels off... The caliper brackets didn't have pad clips - the small metal clips that attach to the caliper brackets that the pads actually slide on (these aren't called anti-rattle springs; only the 2006 model year onward had "anti-rattle" springs). I can't believe that I overlooked this part the last time that I completed the pad/rotor brake job. These clips weren't there when I bought the car, they weren't part of the Wanger brake pad kit that I installed the last time, and the Jaguar parts catalogue doesn't even specify these clips. But, when you order a proper brake kit; there they are! So I simply added the new pad clips today and gave everything a new cleaning and lubrication. Unfortunately, the addition of the new clips changed the geometry of the old pads against the old rotors. So, the brakes are making a grinding noise as the pads and rotors make a new groove. Despite the new noise, I'm not hearing the old chirp. Based on experience, the grinding of the old pads/rotors should subside when they properly wear and mate to each other. While doing the brake job today, I did find that the right rear caliper piston was a bit stubborn to retract, and the brake components at this corner were a bit hotter than the other brakes after a test drive. Correspondingly, one of the pads at this coner was also a bit more worn than the other. So, Although I didn't install new rotors, pads, and calipers, I will keep them in the event I decide to install those parts later. I'll let you know, after the next couple hundred miles, how things are working.
i just bought my 2004 Xj8.. she is so flawless and clean. I have all the sevice records from the original owner.. everything seems fine and i love the ride and luxury comfort
BUT lately now the brakes are squeaking and load its anembarrassment,, i cant take it anymore!!
First, check the condition of your pads and rotors, FRONT AND BACK. If you need to replace them, use OEM or Jurid pads, and a good quality rotor. Don't fall for the ceramic or drilled/slotted fad. Make sure the anti-rattle clips on the pads haven't fallen off.
Check that your calipers are working properly...check that the pistons aren't stuck, make sure the rubber boots are good, make sure that the slide pins are lubed properly. If necessary, rebuild the calipers.
All else fails, replace the caliper brackets with remanufactured ones from Rockauto, and get new bolts from Jaguar. Over time, the brackets and bolts can wear out. My pedal feels much more secure since replacing those brackets. The car comes to a stop like it's brand new.
If you want to try each thing one at a time, you're welcome to. But I had grown so sick of having to tear everything apart a million times, that I finally just replaced everything again all at once....rotors, pads, brackets, bolts, front and rear. So far so good. No noise, no creak...just smooth powerful braking.
And always make sure all surfaces are nice and clean.
05-09-2016, 05:02 PM
