I have the "Premium" audio system in the 07 VDP. The 6 channel amp is divied up a bit oddly, but is ok for factory stuff from a small company at the time. Putting in line converters, amps and high end drivers all around is beyond my budget. I high sensitivity mid-bass drivers for the doors that actually bump output quality over the 6.6" Alpine Neodymium magnet OEM ones, and replaced the 2.5"-3" sound stage drivers in the dash. Finding tweeter replacements is that fit in the door handle location is difficult, there are serious size limitations, but the door tweeters are the weakest of all the OEM stuff. The hunt goes on since I won't cut holes for new tweeters, and the dash location sucks for directional speakers like a tweeter.

Apart from the tweeter hunt, I will likely upgrade the 6.5" pair of subs in the rear deck. The existing ones are lousy, so audible upgrades are achievable. The challenge here is damping rattles and vibration from installs people have reported back on

Research tells me they are definitely 4 ohm units. Unless they absolutely aren't. Looks like early cars had a pair of 2 ohm units that were switched on later VIN's to 4 ohm ones.

1. Does anyone know the VIN or date cutoff when they went from 2 to 4 Ohm units? - Does measuring with a meter provide guidance?
2. Am I am safest with getting 4 Ohm units? - if I replace 2 Ohm ones, would I just lose some output power/DB's/Volume?
3. I am more worried putting in 2 Ohm drivers where 4 is the spec -would over driving them?

I just don't know enough in a general sense as well as this particular scenario to make a decision. Subs are heavy. having to ship them back is expensive, not to mention having to tear it all apart a 2nd time if they don't work well.

Anyone who knows this stuff - your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

Just meter it yourself. No one will tell you which subs do you have. But in my opinion its better not to bother with replacing them, and connect to rear doors outputs (they are only full range outputs) with all-in-one active sub. You can choose decent sub in much less budget your already spent.

 

Careful ... a multimeter resistance reading only gives the DC resistance, not the impedance. The impedance of a speaker can be as much as double the DC resistance.

 

I had an infinity Bass-Link with amp in my X308. The problem doing that in these cars is the isolation having the fuel tank partly behind the seat. I guess I could remove the existing subs to allow pass through. Otherwise its like my early 90s S-Class that let absolutely nothing intrude I to the cabin, particularly the disturbing rumble produced by a subwoofer! What about using a capacitor inversely to the way they use them on the tweeters as sort of low pass filter?

Also the front seats have all of a pinkies width of space under them so forget "slim line" bass setups inside the cabin. Ugh.

 

You are correct. But TS just needs to know which speakers he has 2Ohm or 4Ohm (say white or black) DC resistance will easily reference it. You can find on forum where we metered DС resistance of stock subs with other member.

 

Which car you need to swap subs x308 or x350? X350 doesnt have fuel tank behind the seat. If you just need abit more bass, underseats are an option also.