Hello Everyone:
I think I have read in the Jaguar manual that you have to snug tight any suspension part bolt, lower the car and put a load on that area, then torque the bolts. Is that correct? Or do you torque the bolts while changing the suspension parts on the lift? I never understood how do you get to all the bolts while the car is on the ground. Thanks everyone

JDog

 

A 'drive-on' lift is used in alignment shops and dealers usually have a few for suspension work.
Position the car in a 'laden-position' to tighten the suspension bushes so they 'flex' equally up and down!

 

This is primarily for control arm bushings. An easier method is a second jack to lift arm to horizontal. The arms are close to horizontal at normal ride height.
The arming is to prevent snugging down the control arm bolts with the arm hanging down. Then once on road the bushing will be highly stressed and fail quickly.
I had assumed the control arm bushings would align themselves over time. But this is not true. The UCA bushing on one of my cars have holes molded in that go to the sides. So even pressing in a new bushing they have a proper orientation. Assume the holes to the side make them more compliant for ride. AND these are the only bushings on the 17 old old car that needed replacing.

 

Don't snug them too tight before getting the weight of the car on the suspension. A slight bit too much could lock the bushing in the low position and cause premature failure. With wheel off I just put a support under the arm that is the same height as the opposite 'loaded' arm on the other side of the car, lower the car, then torque the bushings up.

 

OK is this just a height adjustment problem for the control arm or is this a load problem. No big deal if all I have to do is adjust the height of the arm then torque. Or is it a heavy load on the control arm before you torque it?

 

If you have the cars weight on the struts, and all the wheel to arch heights are correct, you could measure the arm angle. Then try to replicate that with the strut disconnected. But that is a hard way to go since you would have to have the car still level on the other three struts, or the angle would be out.
Even on a rack you would have to make sure the wheel to arch distances are correct for all wheels or you would tighten it and a re-calibration of the height sensors would put some torque load on the bushing.
Truth be told I usually put the rotor on and tighten with wheel nuts, then block under the rotor to give the height the center is usually off the ground with the tire on. Let the jack down and tighten the arm at that point.

 

just simulate ride height as best as you can