Since it seems I'm talking to myself on my previous post on throttle body removal, I thought I would start anew with hopes of getting a response. After removing the 4 obvious bolts from the front of the throttle body, the two bolts that hold the air intake elbow retaining bracket remain they are pointed out shown with the blue arrows in the diagram. The bolt on the driver's side (U.S.), while visible, is surrounded by what appears to be part of the plastic contraption holding the electrical plug into the receptacle. Has anyone found a way to remove the bolt without rmoving the plug? If the plug has to be removed, can someone please let me know where to find the instructions on how to do so?
Thanks & best, Steve

 

Hi Steve,

my apologies, from the other post I got the impression that you already had managed to remove the throttle body.

Let's see if I can help you. I tried to take some pictures today, but as it is very tight in that area of the engine bay with everything in situ I was not able to.

So, I have searched that pictures I had taken when I did the job again...

If I have understood correctly, the plug you mention should be the one of the MAP sensor that in your picture was already removed, but is still present in this one (circled in red):


You will not be able to remove the intake elbow without removing the plug or connector.

When the elbow is removed, the connector looks like this (also circled in red):


I do not remember exactly how I removed it, but I also do not remember big difficulties unplugging it, not more than with other similar plugs on the car.

I hope that this helps at least a bit.

Good luck!

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thomas, your post has been a beacon of hope in today’s dark garage struggle. I've been wrestling with the EGR, which seems to have taken a liking to its spot with one of the #10 bolts bound so firmly that even Popeye couldn't crack it. I suspect it's mocking me from under the hood as we speak! It better stop or we’ll see how much it laughs after I smack the S out of it with a 30 lb. hammer! I think I’ve rounded the head!

So, I heeded the advice from one of our resident geniuses to evict the EGR along with its buddy, the throttle body elbow. Yet, it turns out they're like a duo from a Batman & Robin movie—where one's got the brains and the other's got the brawn. The rear bracket bolt is playing hide-and-seek, using the EGR as its camouflage cape, while the other one's tucked away behind some damnable plastic plug & connector, taunting me over my attempts to reach it. On my car, there is no way the 2 bracket screws can be removed without first removing the EGR & second, removing the plug.

Here's the battle plan:

1. Wrestle that bolt until it cries uncle and releases the EGR.

2. Free the elbow bracket bolt from its covert operation under the EGR's watch and liberate the wiring bundle to unveil the elusive driver's side elbow bracket bolt.

But here's the kicker—I've been on a wild goose chase trying to identify this mysterious plug holder with some description of how it is removed. It's like trying to find money in Jack Benny’s wallet! If there are any plaintiff lawyers reading this, they might consider a class-action suit against Jaguar under the "Right to Repair" clause. Jaguar has turned this into the ultimate hide-and-seek extraordinaire! If there's a "Hide-and-Seek World Championship," I'm pretty sure Jaguar would take home the gold. Maybe I'll write to Guinness World Records and nominate them. But seriously, if Sherlock Holmes were a mechanic, he'd be scratching his head over this one. I've been combing through diagrams and manuals like a detective on a case, but it's like trying to find intelligent life in Washington, DC!
Ah, but now, but now, it's time for my wee dram of my glorious Amber Elixir. Well, maybe not so wee this time—more like big enough to make even the Nessy a wee bit jealous.

 

Historians claim that IJN Admiral Isoruku Yamamoto never actually said this, even if he should have done before P-38's rendered it a moot point. But it seems to cover this situation:

I fear that all we have done is awaken a sleeping giant and fill him with a terrible resolve.

Anyone who can remember Jack Benny - on night-time 'clear channel' AM radio, of course - is to be trifled with only at great peril!

It isn't just the accumulated wisdom. It's how whole empires have crumbled whilst we soldier, on, unbowed, if not also indifferent.

'Essayons', my broken-glass-scarred-****!

"JFDI" This Jaguar is not a LATAM'ese "ball-bearing" mouse - or Anaconda - trap.
it is English. All else fails, it groks "BFBI" from the very egg it was hatched from.

No need of a hammer. Even "BFBI" has levels of 'finesse'.

Diablo, Italia's best blades for the Oscillating saw to - literally, not figuratively - "cut your losses". and you'll soon be off to the easier work of sourcing a replacement part not pre-infected with the RNA of a rudely recalcitrant resident demon. Deft touch of a Chirurgeon and you'll save all but the one fastener. Not that one has to do, but those saws are more manueverable than 30 lb. hammers, Hackzalls, SawZalls..... or linear shaped charges.

"Violence never solved anything?" As Bob Heinlein once wrote it: "Tell that to the city Fathers of Carthage".

"Parts" one can find, repair, even fab. "Time?" .... Not so much.

 

Since one of the EGR bolts was fairly rounded, I decided to take Xalty's advice & remove the TB Elbow with the EGR attached. Using all of the great little tools you fellows have recommended, I was able to squeeze the sockets into place & remove the 6 bolts! I did disconnect the metal pipe top & bottom & the upper fitting bolt was out of the way so I coulld get the last remaing elbow bolt. The metal gasket is also in the bag labeled "EGR".

Except for the electric plug, there should be nothing else holding the elbow. I will disconnect the plug.

Jiggling the elbow slightly, it didn't jump right off. Should it lift or slide? Does it need a tap or something? Any ideas much appreciated!!

Thanks & best, Steve S.

 

Standard answer #1: "PUNG"

Probably, Usually, Normally, Generally.

Older any connection or mating surface, greater the probability it will need a tap or three to free-up.

Not the same as picking up a "BFH" and wanging the living crap out of it, even if you think it richly deserves such, by this late stage...but I suspect your bank account already knows that part, even if your temper hasn't quite caught-up?

I mean.. you have been sooo very patient though this whole exercise, you are entitled to at least go bash something cheaper?

Taking a greasy ball-pein hammer to the surface of a large bucket of water, for example?
What is it an 18-month old kid knowed that we "grownups" have forgotten?

That'll cool yah down. Laughing like a loon, optional. I did say "grownup?"

 

The receptacle has a depresable tongue which one would think would release the plug. It is only on the top as pictured. It is located so that I can depress it completely with my finger nail. However, nothing seems to want to move. I'm reluctant to use too much force for obvious reasons. I'm going to spray a little silicon lubricant on it to see if that helps. Does anyone know for sure exactly how this works?

BTW: Found that the throttle body id loose. Now, to just get this plug out without breaking it.

Thanks & best, Steve S.

 

Hi Steve,
glad to hear that you finally managed to remove the EGR! Nice one!

Yes, the throttle body should be lose after removing the bolts. If not, then it is just stuck to the gasket and bit of moving it back and forth, or slight taps with a rubber hammer, should get it lose.

Regarding the plug, it is quite common for many of them to get stuck, as well.
The reasons can be: the heat they are exposed to (like this one), dirt, the rubber gaskets used in them...
So, I believe that spraying it with silicone lubricant might help, and then try moving it back and forth, as well, while keeping the release depressed. Same as with the EGR, persistence is the key.
The cable to the plug should have a bit of leeway, so maybe you can move the throttle body a bit to get a better grit on the plug.

Once more, good luck!

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks, Thomas. I was able to find some throttle bodies on ebay with pretty clear pictures of what should come off. Now that I know they get stuck, I will proceed with persistant, albeit gentle, effort.

Best,

Steve S.

 

You should, by now, have at least one of the several "Electrical Contact Cleaner" classes of penetrating sprays.

These can also serve to de-gunk and free stuck plugs and sockets. As they are selected by careful makers to not harm the materlals used with electronics components and their connectors, they are a much safer bet to not cause damage than penetrating oils and such mean to free-up metal fasteners "might do".

Underhood connectors are rugged. They have to be. But still....

 

Celebrate, Celebrate! Dance to the music! I got the supercharger out. However that throttle body is still attached to the plug. I sprayed some miracle electrical lubricant & will let that sit a bit.

For once in my life, I wish that I had a bigger belly because that is quite a cavern where the SC was, While I'm letting the electrical connection marinate, I'm going to study the technique for removing the intercoolers.

A Sigmund Freud quotation for Bill: "From error to error one discovers the complete truth."

 

Congratulations!!

The intercoolers are easy and straightforward, they are just bolted on...

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Freud was as mentally bent as a hickory stick on LSD, wouldn't know "truth" had it married first-among-equals of his Mothers ....but also an optimist.

All "error" has taught ME is how to take longer to implement ever more clever and costly... errors. Still beats daytime Tee-Vee or watching Tolnaftate spray dry, so I'm good wit' dat.

Thomas said "it's only bolted on."

Welll..... so was the first Tay Bridge.... and everything else as has been busting our chops, since, ex-wife's Norsk temper, included.

Don't get TOO dam' cocky, just yet! The Piper-Heidsieck is still chilling!

 

In the Circle, there is a weird columnar grey post; what is this thing called? It has a number 8 at the top & appears to have a threaded screw in the middle. I assume that this will remove the wireharness from the SC intercooler. It doesn't appear that any of the plugs are actually connect to the intercooler, but the metal bracket is attaced to the intercooler just to hold the harness in place? I will endeavor to remove, but any help is much appreciated. Thanks & best, Steve

 

Hi Steve,

yes, it is just there to hold the harness and the connectors in place.

The grey column is actually only pushed onto the thread you see, you can pull it off.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

OK, very simple, but quite unusual. The plastic tubes simply lifts off; then, the screw turns out of the bracket & the bracket is free; both intercoolers are removed.

 

Actually, it is not so unusual, I also saw this method of holding a harness on some of my other cars, and they not Jags...

You are making good progress, then. I would say that the worst is done, now. When reaching the point of getting everything back together again, it is a bit easier, because you already have the experience from dismantling. Although,the EGR will still be a pain...

Are you going to do the valve cover gaskets, too? It might be sensible to do it if you see some leaks. Also check the spark plug wells for oil infiltrations, the gaskets there are replaced together with the valve cover gaskets. Access is now much easier as you have already removed the intercoolers.
If you do the job, the most difficult part is removing the nut that also holds the oil dipstick. For that, do not remove the dipstick as the manual suggests! There are threads in the forum that show how to cut the eyelet of the dipstick.

Also,some people in the forum suggest to replace the knock sensors now, as well, because to reach them in case of failure means to do a lot of the work that you have done now.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Every part of the teardown is complete, except the Throttle Body Elbow, while free, is still attached by the plug below. What would happen if I took the screw pictured out? Would it unplug from the elbow there? Thanks & best, Steve S.

 

That's the screw that fixes the MAP sensor to the throttle body, so yes, you can remove it and then the MAP sensor can be removed, as well. Twist it a bit to loosen it.

If the MAP sensor looks good, you can reuse it, otherwise you will still have to unplug it...

Best regards,

Thomas

 

I discerned enough numbers to see that this is a Ford part also on the Ford Fiesta. It appears that there is an O-ring inside. Would there be any harm in just pulling this sucker out?