Throttle Body Elbow Removal. Am I Barking Up The Right Tree?
#1
Throttle Body Elbow Removal. Am I Barking Up The Right Tree?
Going into the valley, thanks to you fine gents, I made it to the part where the EGR is removed from the elbow. I was successful at removing one of the #8s holding the EGR on, but the other, I can’t remove.
Xalty suggested: “Just take the 4 elbow bolts out & shove the elbow back with EGR still attached, then you can get to the SC bottom bolt.”
Jaguar VDP in 2010 took the 4 bolts out of the elbow & still could not unseat it. His thread is linked at the bottom.*
Jackra_1 added to Jaguar VDP’s query: “Apart from the 4 bolts you have mentioned and the EGR connection there are two bolts that hold the air intake elbow retaining bracket.”
Question: Am I barking up the right tree?
I can see the 4 bolts on the front. Assume that these are the 4 bolts that Jaguar VDP refers to initially.
I can’t see the 2 bolts to which Jackra refers.
My previous Thread on this subject: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oolers-278992/
*From Jaguar VDP in 2010 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-elbow-221519/
Xalty suggested: “Just take the 4 elbow bolts out & shove the elbow back with EGR still attached, then you can get to the SC bottom bolt.”
Jaguar VDP in 2010 took the 4 bolts out of the elbow & still could not unseat it. His thread is linked at the bottom.*
Jackra_1 added to Jaguar VDP’s query: “Apart from the 4 bolts you have mentioned and the EGR connection there are two bolts that hold the air intake elbow retaining bracket.”
Question: Am I barking up the right tree?
I can see the 4 bolts on the front. Assume that these are the 4 bolts that Jaguar VDP refers to initially.
I can’t see the 2 bolts to which Jackra refers.
My previous Thread on this subject: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...oolers-278992/
*From Jaguar VDP in 2010 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-elbow-221519/
#2
Hi Steve,
The two bolts with the blue arrows are a bit tricky to get at, but again, a 1/4" 6 point socket on an extension should work. In your other thread you mention ratchets. I have found a good quality 1/4" drive ratchet with a fine (even stepless) ratchet mechanism is most useful. I think mine is a Stanley brand. The other tool I have found useful is a miniature ratchet with a 1/4" square drive on one end and a 1/4" hex on the other end.
I got mine from AliExpress, but I'm sure you have a similar source where you live. It's small enough to get into tight spots and can be used for sockets or torx bits or anything else, using adaptors.
Handy tool
Pete M
The two bolts with the blue arrows are a bit tricky to get at, but again, a 1/4" 6 point socket on an extension should work. In your other thread you mention ratchets. I have found a good quality 1/4" drive ratchet with a fine (even stepless) ratchet mechanism is most useful. I think mine is a Stanley brand. The other tool I have found useful is a miniature ratchet with a 1/4" square drive on one end and a 1/4" hex on the other end.
I got mine from AliExpress, but I'm sure you have a similar source where you live. It's small enough to get into tight spots and can be used for sockets or torx bits or anything else, using adaptors.
Handy tool
Pete M
The following 2 users liked this post by Pete M:
04Xjrsteve (04-14-2024),
Thermite (04-14-2024)
#3
Steve, Invest in a set of 1/4 in. 6 point swivel sockets. They will make your life much better. Swivel joints are long, heavy and loose and floppy. I got mine in both metric and US sizes, quite reasonable on Ebay and seem of decent quality. As I recall only about 25$ a set, but this was a while back. I assume you already have them in 3/8 drive.. The 1/4 drive ones are a necessity on most all Iate model vehicles. they tend to use smaller fasteners than old cars. Tom.
The following users liked this post:
Thermite (04-15-2024)
#4
Steve, Invest in a set of 1/4 in. 6 point swivel sockets. They will make your life much better. Swivel joints are long, heavy and loose and floppy. I got mine in both metric and US sizes, quite reasonable on Ebay and seem of decent quality. As I recall only about 25$ a set, but this was a while back. I assume you already have them in 3/8 drive.. The 1/4 drive ones are a necessity on most all Iate model vehicles. they tend to use smaller fasteners than old cars. Tom.
Also when specific challenges arise, fear not buying just ONE size of each of several "trick" wrenches off the wall at an auto supply, big box.. or even Harbor FFFFFFreight.
Part of how one learns if a whole set is worth the drawer space.
An X350 doesn't actually use as many DIFFERENT fastener head-sizes as once was, either.
Person with motivation to work it up could probably assemble an "away" kit for the road that covered them all in not a lot of storage space.
"Full sets" can be deceptive as to believing yerself "prepared". I have wrench styles and sizes in each set as have never set-lip to a fastener in as much as 60 years.
What we more often need is several "styles" in the SAME few sizes per any given target 'project'.
As you mentioned, thanks.
Last edited by Thermite; 04-15-2024 at 05:25 AM.
The following users liked this post:
04Xjrsteve (04-15-2024)
#5
#7
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#9
1100 square feet is not enough for a REAL "tool-*****".
DAMHIKT!
#10
#11
I don't know the name of this fitting, but for the removal:
you see the riffled part on the bottom ring of the black plastic fitting?
There are two of them, exactly on opposite sides. You need to press on them from both sides together (basically you squeeze the ring and thus unlock it) ) and at the same time pull the fitting off with the hose.
As the space is quite tight, using some pliers to squeeze might help.
I hope that I could explain understandably.
Best regards,
Thomas
you see the riffled part on the bottom ring of the black plastic fitting?
There are two of them, exactly on opposite sides. You need to press on them from both sides together (basically you squeeze the ring and thus unlock it) ) and at the same time pull the fitting off with the hose.
As the space is quite tight, using some pliers to squeeze might help.
I hope that I could explain understandably.
Best regards,
Thomas
The following 2 users liked this post by Thomas-S.:
04Xjrsteve (04-18-2024),
Pete M (04-18-2024)
#12
Name for this fitting is PITA!
15-10 years in service and going from cold to hot and humidity doing wonders to Polyamide, NYLON for normal people.
It is getting brittle and not very flexible. Besides, after compressing those ribbed areas, you have to feel when that ring with latches disengages from latching rim mating piece.
Very easy and quick to install on assembly conveyor, just push it in, untill you hear/feel click. Not so to replace after 15 years.
15-10 years in service and going from cold to hot and humidity doing wonders to Polyamide, NYLON for normal people.
It is getting brittle and not very flexible. Besides, after compressing those ribbed areas, you have to feel when that ring with latches disengages from latching rim mating piece.
Very easy and quick to install on assembly conveyor, just push it in, untill you hear/feel click. Not so to replace after 15 years.
The following 2 users liked this post by Big Koshka:
04Xjrsteve (04-18-2024),
Pete M (04-18-2024)
#14
OK, have gotten the 4 #10s holding the elbow on the front off. Now for those 2 little b..tards in the rear. I have located them, but like VDP before me, I think the one on the drivers side shouldn't be too tough. However, the other one is smack dab close to the plastic harness. I believe these are #8s? Can anyone say with certainty?
Did anyone find what worked for the one next to the plastic harness? If I can find one long enough, I think a #8 rachet wrench might work. There is very little room to move whatever I use.
Thanks and best,
Steve S.
Did anyone find what worked for the one next to the plastic harness? If I can find one long enough, I think a #8 rachet wrench might work. There is very little room to move whatever I use.
Thanks and best,
Steve S.
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