Upon closer inspection during driving I do feel some drive train vibration particularly when shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. I plan on getting it done just to be safe.

About the engine mounts. The dealership parts dept told me that there are 2 types in the car. Front and rear. Or is it 2 in the front and 1 in the rear. Which ones would you recommend changing first?

Thank you for everyoneveryone's help

 

Hi pkoko,

There are a total of three engine/transmission mounts.

There are two front engine mounts, one on each side of the engine, Part 2 in this diagram:







There is one mount at the rear of the transmission, which Jaguar calls the rear engine mounting (Part 2 in the diagram below), commonly called the transmission mount, the subject of this thread. Note that Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts in the U.K. shows the mount is currently Out of Stock. That doesn't mean that Jaguar North America doesn't have any inventory - you'll just have to check with your local dealership:





My experience is that by the time an X350/X358 is ten years old, all of these mounts will be tired and at least one of the front mounts will probably be collapsed, so it's a good idea to replace all three. They can be replaced one at a time, but bear in mind that if one is collapsed, the death of the remaining two will be accelerated.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

How hard is it to do the front mounts? I am not doing it myself but how many labor hours should I expect a mechanic to ask?

 

Hi pkoko,

It's actually not as difficult to replace the front engine mounts as you might think. Of course, you have to support and slightly raise the engine. I use an engine support bar to support the engine from above. You can also support it from below with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan, but then you have the jack next to you as you work to replace the mounts.

A few tips I can think of:

The manual states that the vehicle must be level when replacing the mounts, but if you replace one side at a time, you can get away with just having the front of the vehicle raised on ramps or jack stands. I highly recommend replacing only one mount at a time anyway, because this keeps the engine better supported and makes it easier to get the new mount aligned as you very carefully lower the engine in small steps to confirm everything is aligned before you let the engine's full weight sit on the mount.

I have always found it necessary to disconnect the engine mount brackets from the engine and the mount, which makes it easier/possible to get the old mounts out and the new ones in. On some cars, it may be possible to remove and replace the mounts without disconnecting the brackets, but one thing to be aware of is that you can only raise the engine a few inches before components on the top of the engine come into contact with components on the firewall/bulkhead/cowl.

To replace the left mount, the steering column must be disconnected from the rack and the rack must be lowered. Before disconnecting the column, center the steering wheel and secure the wheel in position. I use bungee cords strung between the steering wheel and driver's seat headrest rods. If the steering wheel is spun while the steering column is disconnected, the clock spring can be damaged. Before disconnecting the steering column, carefully make alignment marks on the column and rack pinion so you can be sure to get them properly aligned again on reassembly.

The steering rack does not have to be lowered in order to remove and replace the right engine mount. But one thing to consider is that the right mount and bracket must be removed to replace the alternator. So if your alternator is tired or suspect, it's great to combine the alternator and right engine mount replacement jobs.

Cheers,

Don

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

Any easy visual test that you can do to tell if the front mounts are collapsed? I just did the rear mounts and the car feels smoother for sure but it wasn't vibrating too badly to begin with. If this was already covered in this thread; please pardon my ignorance and point me to the response # in this thread.

 

Hi pkoko,

The most obvious sign of X350 engine mount failure is viscous hydraulic fluid leaking from the mount.

Another test is to watch the engine while a helper starts it and allows it to idle, then presses the accelerator pedal quickly to about half way to cause the engine rpms to increase sharply, then lets off to allow the engine to return to idle. Have your helper repeat as you observe. Excessive movement of the engine may mean that one or more of the mounts has failed. Often, you can see that one side of the engine moves more than the other, which tells you the mount on one side has failed..

Cheers,

Don