Trying to replace the shifter cover/facia only
#1
Trying to replace the shifter cover/facia only
Hi
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Edit: The facia can not be replaced without removing the selector knob, which itself can not be removed without destroying it.
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I need to remove the shifter cover/facia. (The cover itself is badly scratched, and those two buttons there are pretty much melted and need to be replaced.)
Knowing how the thing looks underneath certainly helps:
...but knowing how the shifter looks without the facia would be even better.
Wouldn't anyone know of a how-to for this one?
Cheers
Jarda
---
Edit: The facia can not be replaced without removing the selector knob, which itself can not be removed without destroying it.
---
I need to remove the shifter cover/facia. (The cover itself is badly scratched, and those two buttons there are pretty much melted and need to be replaced.)
Knowing how the thing looks underneath certainly helps:
...but knowing how the shifter looks without the facia would be even better.
Wouldn't anyone know of a how-to for this one?
Cheers
Jarda
Last edited by Jaroslav Záruba; 01-02-2024 at 11:06 PM.
#2
The selector knob is just screwed on, so I do not understand the statement that it cannot be removed without destroying it.
As I had to replace the shifter unit on my car and I still have the old unit, I can see to take some pictures of it. It might take until the weekend, though...
Best regards,
Thomas
As I had to replace the shifter unit on my car and I still have the old unit, I can see to take some pictures of it. It might take until the weekend, though...
Best regards,
Thomas
#3
The selector knob is just screwed on, so I do not understand the statement that it cannot be removed without destroying it.
As I had to replace the shifter unit on my car and I still have the old unit, I can see to take some pictures of it. It might take until the weekend, though...
Best regards,
Thomas
As I had to replace the shifter unit on my car and I still have the old unit, I can see to take some pictures of it. It might take until the weekend, though...
Best regards,
Thomas
Often the threads get stuck together, and it takes more torque to make them unstuck then what it takes to tear the steel core of the knob from the knob itself.
This is what the result looks like.
Sadly, I am heading in the same direction:
I think I can see that for couple of degrees the threaded steel core follows the rotation of the knob, but then it gets stuck and if I continued rotating the knob forcefully it would get torn.
What is shown on the video is as much as I could get the knob unscrewed.
Now one of these shall probably happen:
A) I manage to fit some very narrow pliers in the 2mm gap, get enough grip on the (barely visible) edge of the steel core of the knob, and convince the core to rotate along with the knob.
B) I come up with some unorthodox way of grabbing the steel core. (I might have one or two hopelessly stupid ideas.)
C) Maybe squirting few drops of some penetrating lubricant could work? ...if it could seep upwards into the threads...?
D) I sacrifice the gorgeous XJR knob and replace it later with a new one.
#4
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Jaroslav Záruba (01-08-2024)
#5
Hi,
I have dismantled my old shifter today.
It is as I said before. Both the metal knob and the wooden knob are just screwed on:
This is the washer.
It is made of plastic and has the following dimensions: diameter 24.5 mm, diameter of the hole 7.5 mm, thickness 1.6 mm.
The metallic, triangular base underneath the knob is also just screwed on. If you cannot unscrew it by hand, on the top there are two holes into which pliers can be inserted to have a bit of a lever.
After this, the shifter can be split into two parts by removing the four screws on the left and right side. You can see two of them on the following picture:
Then the assembly looks like this:
The facia itself is clipped on the part at the top of the picture.
I hope that this helps. If you need further pictures, no problem...
Best regards,
Thomas
I have dismantled my old shifter today.
It is as I said before. Both the metal knob and the wooden knob are just screwed on:
This is the washer.
It is made of plastic and has the following dimensions: diameter 24.5 mm, diameter of the hole 7.5 mm, thickness 1.6 mm.
The metallic, triangular base underneath the knob is also just screwed on. If you cannot unscrew it by hand, on the top there are two holes into which pliers can be inserted to have a bit of a lever.
After this, the shifter can be split into two parts by removing the four screws on the left and right side. You can see two of them on the following picture:
Then the assembly looks like this:
The facia itself is clipped on the part at the top of the picture.
I hope that this helps. If you need further pictures, no problem...
Best regards,
Thomas
Last edited by Thomas-S.; 01-13-2024 at 02:39 PM. Reason: correction of typing error.
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Jaroslav Záruba (01-13-2024)
#6
Would you be able to tell please if it seems possible to replace the two buttons on the J-gate? (That's half of the reason why I'm trying to disassemble the shifter.)
I seem to remember to have seen a green PCB under the facia. I assumed one would need to get underneath that to set the buttons free, but I'm only assuming here.
Also this recent post is asking pretty much the same question: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2712149
Last edited by Jaroslav Záruba; 01-14-2024 at 06:47 AM.
#8
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Jaroslav Záruba (01-16-2024)
#9
Today I practiced removing the J-gate facia from the car... and then opening it so I can separate the piano-black plastic cover and the 2 buttons.
(As always, I forgot to document the process as I was progressing while in the car. So the images below are taken later when I was disassembling the already-removed facia on my desk at home.)
So here it goes...
The shift knob needs to be unscrewed. It seems that those half-leather knobs often won't unscrew no matter what and you'll have to destroy the poor thing. (I.e. twisting the knob won't result in the knob getting unscrewed.)
I suspect the wooden ones don't suffer from this.
The center console/tunnel thing needs to be removed. The best video illustrating that procedure I know of would be this one:
Also the ashtray needs to be loosened. I don't believe it needs to be removed completely, which also means you don't need to remove the head-unit.
(To loosen the ashtray you'll need to unscrew 2 screws hidden within the ashtray itself - just open the wooden ashtray door, and pop the two black caps. No has photo, sorry!)
Next, remove these 4 screws:
(again: don't get fooled by not seeing the gear lever/rod here, photo was taken when the removal phase was already over)
(Those two marked with red are the ones seemingly blocked by the ashtray. Even if these screws can be unscrewed with the ashtray firmly in you'll need the ashtray loosened for the next step.)
This should give you enough leeway to wiggle/pull the whole thing up enough to access another set of screws...
...the following two images illustrate where these 4 screws are, 2 on each side, naturally:
1) a side view taken from the Workshop Manual PDF, page 4288 (No need to hunt for the Workshop Manual, we won't pulling out the whole selector bracket!)
2) this is where they were (facia already disassembled)
...so unscrew those 4 too. This ALMOST frees the J-gate facia from the shifter/selector block.
Now unscrew the e-brake bracket. This shall grant you (pretty bad) access to one of two connectors you need to unplug to take the J-Gate facia home with you.
...the green fckr is the one hiding under the e-brake. (One of two most challenging points of the process)
The other, black, connector was easily unplugged as it was not blocked by anything.
Now you have the facia sitting on the desk but there's still the wheel thing that's preventing you from unscrewing the final screw.
Unscrew these 3:
After you pull out the white bracket, you should be looking at this:
Rotate the wheel so the white spring-loaded thing ends up in the gap...
...now you can easily pull the white thing out and you should be looking at this:
Now you can take the wheel out, and you should see the final screw that holds the J-gate facia.
Of course I did not take a photo, but this is where the final screw was:
Unfortunately removing the final screw isn't the last thing you need to undo. There are two pair of clips that need to be released from their brackets.
(I suspect overcoming these brackets without breaking them is the most challenging part of the process. I know it can be done, as there are couple of these seemingly in-tact on the Autoreservejaguar website; I am just not confident about how to do it.)
On the part I was dismantling today one of the brackets was already broken for some reason. And because I have one extra facia (one in better shape than this one) I did not care enough to waste more time, and I broke another of the 4 brackets so I could open that damned thing...
...this is the result:
The ones marked with green are actually accessible, so you can try your luck convincing them to release their respective clips. Maybe use a heat-gun when trying to pry them?
The red mark shows where the 2 other brackets broke. And those are the ones that aren't even accessible in the first place - in case you wanted to release them using some sort of a prying tool.
The two buttons you can see on the last image (Sport and Traction control) will pretty much fall out of the facia once you open it.
(As always, I forgot to document the process as I was progressing while in the car. So the images below are taken later when I was disassembling the already-removed facia on my desk at home.)
So here it goes...
The shift knob needs to be unscrewed. It seems that those half-leather knobs often won't unscrew no matter what and you'll have to destroy the poor thing. (I.e. twisting the knob won't result in the knob getting unscrewed.)
I suspect the wooden ones don't suffer from this.
The center console/tunnel thing needs to be removed. The best video illustrating that procedure I know of would be this one:
Also the ashtray needs to be loosened. I don't believe it needs to be removed completely, which also means you don't need to remove the head-unit.
(To loosen the ashtray you'll need to unscrew 2 screws hidden within the ashtray itself - just open the wooden ashtray door, and pop the two black caps. No has photo, sorry!)
Next, remove these 4 screws:
(again: don't get fooled by not seeing the gear lever/rod here, photo was taken when the removal phase was already over)
(Those two marked with red are the ones seemingly blocked by the ashtray. Even if these screws can be unscrewed with the ashtray firmly in you'll need the ashtray loosened for the next step.)
This should give you enough leeway to wiggle/pull the whole thing up enough to access another set of screws...
...the following two images illustrate where these 4 screws are, 2 on each side, naturally:
1) a side view taken from the Workshop Manual PDF, page 4288 (No need to hunt for the Workshop Manual, we won't pulling out the whole selector bracket!)
2) this is where they were (facia already disassembled)
...so unscrew those 4 too. This ALMOST frees the J-gate facia from the shifter/selector block.
Now unscrew the e-brake bracket. This shall grant you (pretty bad) access to one of two connectors you need to unplug to take the J-Gate facia home with you.
...the green fckr is the one hiding under the e-brake. (One of two most challenging points of the process)
The other, black, connector was easily unplugged as it was not blocked by anything.
Now you have the facia sitting on the desk but there's still the wheel thing that's preventing you from unscrewing the final screw.
Unscrew these 3:
After you pull out the white bracket, you should be looking at this:
Rotate the wheel so the white spring-loaded thing ends up in the gap...
...now you can easily pull the white thing out and you should be looking at this:
Now you can take the wheel out, and you should see the final screw that holds the J-gate facia.
Of course I did not take a photo, but this is where the final screw was:
Unfortunately removing the final screw isn't the last thing you need to undo. There are two pair of clips that need to be released from their brackets.
(I suspect overcoming these brackets without breaking them is the most challenging part of the process. I know it can be done, as there are couple of these seemingly in-tact on the Autoreservejaguar website; I am just not confident about how to do it.)
On the part I was dismantling today one of the brackets was already broken for some reason. And because I have one extra facia (one in better shape than this one) I did not care enough to waste more time, and I broke another of the 4 brackets so I could open that damned thing...
...this is the result:
The ones marked with green are actually accessible, so you can try your luck convincing them to release their respective clips. Maybe use a heat-gun when trying to pry them?
The red mark shows where the 2 other brackets broke. And those are the ones that aren't even accessible in the first place - in case you wanted to release them using some sort of a prying tool.
The two buttons you can see on the last image (Sport and Traction control) will pretty much fall out of the facia once you open it.
Last edited by Jaroslav Záruba; 06-23-2024 at 04:05 PM.
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