Thanks for the information regarding SNG Barrett, I will be finding out how bad my lines are today. I hope they are not as bad as yours. The photos you posted show a lot of damage and hardly any line left, so I understand what you're doing. I may need to get the big line also and then do what you are intending to do as well. I was probably working on a steel fuel line the last time I did any flares. I think I do have a flare set from Harbor Freight somewhere because I recall thinking it would not do a good job on hard brake lines after seeing how it slipped on the line I was flaring. Unfortunately I honestly don't recall what I was working on that required me to do a flare. I have not been able to determine the specs on the lines to determine if is is metric or SAE (another reason to order a complete line) so that is something else I am going to try and determine today. Although this is a Jaguar/Ford, I expected it to be metric. I will be downloading the Jaguar EPC today to see what it shows. I hope I do not have to replace anything near the master cylinder. It is hard enough just adding fluid.

As soon as I determine the line specs I plan on buying a 25 ft. line/fitting "kit" and then going from there. I do not plan on dropping the fuel tank if I can help it since I can't get in my garage right now. There are so many types of flares being used now it is hard to guess what Jaguar used. (I can probably look to see what is the most difficult and expensive then assume that is what I have. I should only have to match Jaguar's flares a couple of times. (Double 37 or 45 degree, mushroom, bubble, inverted?)

If I had only checked everything and ignored the work order showing the recall work being done I would have saved some headache. I honestly do not like having so much under the car covered by shields and out of sight. It makes it difficult to do routine inspections. Even if the pad is removed from the shield there is a place for debris and moisture to sit and cause problems. I know I probably have black widows under there. Too bad spider silk doesn't seal leaks.

 

I had to replace both the rear lines on my sons P38 RR, and purchased them from Land Rover. These both ran front to back with multiple jogs. I found an area to cut, flair and splice to make the install much easier. This also ensured I had the correct END fittings to the front and the calipers. Splices were just normal fittings from auto part store. If your original end fittings are in good shape, just buy a coil of nc tubing and bend your own. In my case the ends were beyond salvageable (rusted beyond repair)

 

Well I should have checked my. Rear line let go returning home last night. Looked under the car today and there is a puddle by the right rear wheel. Ordered universal line with an assortment of fittings from Summit Racing. It should arrive next week (on back order and Covid shortages mean they won't know delivery times until next week sometime). I will get the car up in the air and start removing lines while I'm waiting. I'll try to post a summary of the repair.

 

use the real lines. it’s very easy, with 4 hands it takes like 30 minutes

remove lines separately feed new ones through the middle and bend to fit. use extensions to put the clips in that go along the tank

 

What are "real lines"?
I've ordered

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/URR-BR-EZ316

a little pricey but it has extra fittings and more tubing than I will need so I'll save the rest for future jobs.

 

c2c29650k

the line is typical ford style and you need to reuse the union. one side is double and the other is bubble flare