XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Upper alternator bolt access

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-08-2017, 01:44 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default Upper alternator bolt access

I am trying to swap out my alternator and so far I am stumped.

Problem is access to the upper bolt. I cannot see it or even feel it.
I think I feel the flange but it does not seem to have a bolt in it.

On my new alternator I can see the flange for the upper bolt so I know the positioning.

I was hoping to be able to "swing" the alternator up having taken out the lower bolt but with reasonable force it will not budge.

How the heck do I get at that bolt?
 
  #2  
Old 11-08-2017, 07:04 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Looking at other threads it appears that there is a ferrule or sleeve in one end of the flange that holds the lower bolt.
If that is the case I will try knocking it out sufficiently to swing the alternator up.

After removing the engine support and bracket I can just see what looks like a bolt protruding rearwards thru the upper alternator flange.

When I am wide awake tomorrow will have another go at feeling for the other end of that bolt.

This is absolutely by far the most awkwardly positioned alternator I have ever replaced!

I also so far have not been able to budge the electrical connector!
 
  #3  
Old 11-08-2017, 08:15 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Could not wait unitil tomorrow.

There is no ferrule/sleeve and the upper bolt is "fixed". Once I removed the nut from that bolt I was able, with some considerable force, swing the alternator up and slide it back off the upper bolt.

Reaching thru where the engine support bracket was with pliers I was able to depress the clip on the electrical connector and pull it off. Sounded like it broke however it did not.

Tomorrow I will install my nice clean brand new alternator.

Btw I had to take off the upper engine support mount bolt from the already "undone" engine mounting bracket to get the two separated pieces, the engine mount and bracket, out.

Hope this helps anyone else that tackles this job on an X350.
 
Attached Thumbnails Upper alternator bolt access-p1000054.jpg  

Last edited by jackra_1; 11-08-2017 at 08:25 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by jackra_1:
Sean W (11-08-2017), XJ8JR (11-09-2017)
  #4  
Old 11-09-2017, 12:02 AM
BlackKat's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 597
Received 165 Likes on 104 Posts
Default

Nice!
 
  #5  
Old 11-09-2017, 06:59 AM
NDW's Avatar
NDW
NDW is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mineola, TX
Posts: 289
Received 76 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

When I replaced my alternator earlier this year the engine had to be lifted and supported from above, the passenger side motor mount removed and the alternator accessed from underneath. It was by far the most difficult alternator I have ever replaced.
 
  #6  
Old 11-09-2017, 07:40 AM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by NDW
When I replaced my alternator earlier this year the engine had to be lifted and supported from above, the passenger side motor mount removed and the alternator accessed from underneath. It was by far the most difficult alternator I have ever replaced.
That is exactly what I am doing and agree this is the most, by far, difficult alternator I have ever dealt with.

While I am in there I am replacing the engine mounts even tho the original really look good.
 
  #7  
Old 11-09-2017, 10:30 AM
Sean W's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 8,407
Received 4,261 Likes on 2,381 Posts
Default

looking forward to seeing if your warning light disappears now.
 
  #8  
Old 11-09-2017, 12:16 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Sean W
looking forward to seeing if your warning light disappears now.
It better !!!!!!!!

Funny but my battery just died in my truck just when I need to go get oil for the XJR. Have to borrow my wife's car now.

Just finishing everything on the rhs of XJR. About to tackle lhs where I will have to drop the steering rack.

I figured I would do an oil change while I am at it.
 
  #9  
Old 11-09-2017, 03:59 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Well the battery red light is still there!

I am getting 13.85 volts with engine running at idle and 12.78 volts across battery terminals with engine off.

The test sheet that came with the alternator says "voltage regulator set point" is 14.18 volts.
 
  #10  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:35 PM
Box's Avatar
Box
Box is offline
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Up, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,099
Received 643 Likes on 416 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jackra_1
Well the battery red light is still there!

I am getting 13.85 volts with engine running at idle and 12.78 volts across battery terminals with engine off.

The test sheet that came with the alternator says "voltage regulator set point" is 14.18 volts.
I am so sorry to hear this, and it appears they may have given you the wrong regulator for the vehicle. If I am not mistaken, the voltage set point should be 14.5 or 14.7, and I believe the latter is used on 2004~2006 models.

From the Workshop manual, Section 4, Electrical;

Vehicles fitted with 3.5L or 4.2L engine (SC1 generator)

The battery charging voltage is determined by the temperature of the generator. In cold conditions, starting the vehicle from cold the battery voltage will be between 14.2 volts and 15.1 volts and will reduce as the engine warms up. In hot conditions starting the vehicle when the engine is already warm the battery voltage will be between 13.5 volts and 14.3 volts.
 

Last edited by Box; 11-09-2017 at 05:46 PM.
The following users liked this post:
jackra_1 (11-09-2017)
  #11  
Old 11-09-2017, 05:52 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Thank you Box.

I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.

Will see what they say.

I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.

In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
 
  #12  
Old 11-09-2017, 06:01 PM
Box's Avatar
Box
Box is offline
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Up, Planet Earth
Posts: 1,099
Received 643 Likes on 416 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jackra_1
Thank you Box.

I have contacted the seller with those details and what I get as readings.

Will see what they say.

I have read where some people have swapped out the regulator so not sure whether that is possible with this unit or even if I am capable of doing that.

In any case I need a long rest before I tackle this again!!
You can remove the rear cover, and a few screws and it comes right off. It's not hard at all to swap, however access to it is when on the vehicle.
 
The following users liked this post:
jackra_1 (11-09-2017)
  #13  
Old 11-10-2017, 10:46 AM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

I have requested a return of this alternator.

I will take the original alternator to Autozone and get them to test it.

If it tests good than I have a wiring/connection issue.

If it tests bad I will get an alternator from Autozone IF it tests at 14.25 volts or better.

Everything happens at once. My truck starter just died and my wife is gone for 2 days So might risk driving the Jag to get all of this done.

Seller accepted return and shipping costs so thats pretty helpful.
 

Last edited by jackra_1; 11-10-2017 at 10:54 AM.
  #14  
Old 11-10-2017, 10:54 AM
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 5,658
Received 2,662 Likes on 1,827 Posts
Default

I have not had good success with the alternators and starters from parts houses either. I've found that removing the one in the vehicle and taking it to a local automotive electrical shop for testing and overhaul is the best route.

This also ensures the unit fits back into the vehicle it came out of!
 
  #15  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:32 PM
Wingrider's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 3,272
Received 798 Likes on 670 Posts
Default

Often times brushes, bearings, with a little grease, & cleaning, your good as new.
 
  #16  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:47 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Wingrider
Often times brushes, bearings, with a little grease, & cleaning, your good as new.
I might consider doing that so long as a diode has not bitten the dust.

The problem is so much work accessing the alternator.
 
  #17  
Old 11-10-2017, 05:17 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

Anyone know whether there is a repair kit available with a rectifier? None listed that I can see for a 2005 XJR. However I was wondering if this alternator is used in a Lincoln whatever or some other car?
 
  #18  
Old 11-11-2017, 10:31 AM
Wingrider's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 3,272
Received 798 Likes on 670 Posts
Default

Don't know about the alternator, but the water pump is
 
  #19  
Old 11-11-2017, 02:23 PM
jackra_1's Avatar
Veteran Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 6,264
Received 1,756 Likes on 1,327 Posts
Default

I am waiting on the Autozone alternator which should arrive by end of next week.

Monday or Tuesday will take original in to Autozone to test.

I see in the JTIS the "generator" for my car is only rated at 130 amps. I was expecting higher.

In searching on-line I found a new Denso regulator however it is for 220 amps.
The listing states it replaces a whole load of other regulators for Ford.

If push comes to shove I will look at the regulator in my original unit and compare.
 
  #20  
Old 11-11-2017, 08:41 PM
Wingrider's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Stow Ohio
Posts: 3,272
Received 798 Likes on 670 Posts
Default

Rather than Auto Zone, for an alternator there's a place here, that rebuilds yours with all new internal parts. The same quality as stock, or better, usually in a single day, or buy the parts and do it yourself. Great hole in the wall place, that's been there forever, and has a great reputation, for fixing your electrical, as well as many other issues, the first time, at a FAIR price.
 
The following users liked this post:
jackra_1 (11-11-2017)



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:14 PM.