Finished swapping out my "standard" XJ seats with those from a Vanden Plas including screens in the headrests, controls in the armrest, and tables as well as the colored pin stripes.

Although I have ICE D2B connections in the trunk and under the rear seat I do not have the connecting harness wires.

So that is my next task obtaining those wires/cables and or fabricating them.

Will try a couple of those big dismantlers since they have the modules but they simply cut the harness connections to the modules to get them out.

I would not mind the cut cables at this point as I have the end connections!

 

No pics???

 

Made the mistake of taking my camera out from an air conditioned environment to a very humid one so pics not the best as I had to keep wiping the lens.

The picnic tray latches are broken. New ones on order from SNG Barret where Tony, I think, was very helpful.

I have the center console interior electronics out where I have my Navtool connections routed as I may be using those for the headrest screens who knows.

 

Very koolz! I have some screen headrest, but don't know how to get power/video you them without having the center module etc...

 

Thank you.

I have all modules except the video player module which I am reluctant to purchase until I figure a few things out which will take a while.

The video player module takes FIVE connections!!!!

I contacted the seller of the VDP seats and he said he trashed the harness connections as I am sure most dismantlers do. He does not want the hassle of dealing with connectors.

 

Today I finished up under the hood. I replaced the "horsehair" insulation as it was falling to bits.

I still have some glue to get off the intake where I attached the stencil.

The connection into the lhs charge cooler is the pressure take off for the water/meth system.

 

Awesome progress brother!

 

I have the same project in the works. I think I have all the needed parts. Not pictured , but I have the video headrests as well.

 

Yes it looks like you have all the cables which is what I am trying to hunt down.
So you are way ahead of me!

 

It took a while to acquire the cables. I was considering just hardwiring everything at first, then I got lucky and found parts on ebay. I still need the harnesses that are with the seats.

 

Today I figured out a bad abs wheel sensor using info gleaned from a post by Don B in the xj40 section about same. In it (I paraphrase) he suggested that the sensors could be tested for resistance of between 1500 and 2500 ohms and that as long as they were close to the same they should all be good. I decided that since this car is mine I could experiment and see what I found. I got 877 and 878 ohms on the rears, and 877 and 50.9 on the fronts. I have ordered a new sensor And a pair of Proper Wiper blades. Thanks Yet Again Don!

 

That looks spectacular, AND the driver's seat leather is still really nice. Did you buy the whole interior or just the seats? Mind sharing what the wreckers charged for those beautiful seats? I want VDP seats too, and I want 'em NOW!

 

Following the good advice from this forum regarding water in the rear footwell, today I got the seat removed to get the carpet out for proper drying. When I pulled up the carpet I discovered the likely source of some electrical woes that have given me fits for 7 or 8 days. The water has been under there longer than I realized, evidenced by the corrosion and complete dissolution of a ground stud which had 2 large connectors and one small one, leaving several circuits ungrounded. I can't wait to get this cleaned up and reattached, but first I'd better get that marine grade silicone work done.
I'll also need to figure out how to replace the ground stud, so I expect more good advice from a thread search.

The smallest connector is completely eaten away, the larger 2 require some attention, but they survived.

 

Wow, that's bad...

 

Originally he wanted $1600.

Eventually ended up at $1150

At that point I did not know whether the rear arm rest had electronics and did not want to ask. So very pleased in the end to have a complete set of seats with all electronics except cables.

I hope that corroded mess gets sorted out well AND you repair the source of the leak!

According to the seller freight cost him $420 because delivery was to a private address.

I have new tray table clasps on order from S.N.G Barratt at a discount and am hunting for cables/harness connections.

 

Replaced fuel injector number 7 that was open circuit. Car had been going into restricted performance with no fault codes and then threw P0207. Car now runs great with no more fault codes or restricted performance. Was having a very rough idle which has also now gone.

Thanks,

Chris

 

First, as a new member, let me repeat my gratitude for all the info and advice I've found on the forum!

I've been running down a P0171 lean code on bank 1. I previously had lean codes on both banks, but cleaning the MAF and all the hose connectors seemed to help somewhat. Very little maintenance has been done on this car since it rolled off the factory floor, so I'm playing catch up.

Over the last couple of weeks I have: replaced air filter, replaced PCV valve, checked all hoses for cracks and cleaned everything up, replaced MAF, replaced fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, replaced spark plugs and changed oil again just for good measure.

This morning the lambda readings out of both upstream O2 sensor were very close to the same and running about 1.02 at 75 MPH on the highway and then dropping below 1.0 when lifting the throttle. I think that's about right, but if any of the experts happen to read this post and those readings are not decent, please let me know! Fuel trims haven't had much time to build up data but seem to be better, although still fluctuating between 1.6 and -1.6 at idle when fully warmed up, which sounds like a somewhat broad range. Time to stop looking at the OBDII scanner and just enjoy driving it for a few days and see if it is happy now!

I also ordered the suspension compressor rebuild kit today from Andy in the UK so that and front brakes are next on the list. After that will come an ATF change and possibly rear differential fluid!

 

My 04 needed the eight internal intake manifold gaskets to straighten things out.

 

Sorry to hear that!

I looked at the manifold bolts while I was in there replacing the spark plugs. The bottom bolts at the firewall end look like a substantial PITA to get out. Hopefully I don't have to get in there! I've only put about 100 miles on mine since I worked on it last weekend, but so far the trims and the Lambda readings on the upstream O2 sensors look pretty good. Fingers crossed this issue is resolved so I can move onto the next one! I need to pick up a second floor jack to be able to raise the front end other than with ramps (so I can do front brakes and the suspension air compressor).

 

Discovered something not quite right with my rear seat today.

If you look closely just above the seat belt you will see a gap at the rear of the seat.

The seat belt covers about a 2 inch gap between the rear of the seat and the bulkhead.

The same both sides.

I had not noticed as I was so intent on looking at cabling etc.

Took me about 2 hours of bending supporting steel wires in the rear and sides of the seat to get the seat to "sit" properly to my satisfaction.