What did you do to your X350/X358 today?
#881
#882
Broken part
Slotted and brad nail inserted
The other side
Finished product
The other side
Installed part, ugly but effective and stronger than before.
Product I used, but you could used an epoxy of your choice
The molded shift mechanism was broken and I didn't think replacing the entire shifter J-gate was the only answer. So, I repaired it. First I used my dremel tool to cut through the cells, so that a piece of metal was placed across the break, to reinforce it ( in this case a stainless steel brad nail). The repair seems stronger than the original. I also filled in the cells to make it solid.
Found the screw and this same broken part. I immediately thought of your post!
I didn't use the brad nails as you did but used the JB plastic weld epoxy (in grey) and filled in the voids after using abs/plastic fuse material.
Your right - this part (which is hidden when all is together) is much, much stronger.
I had a spare shifter assembly, which I installed - to give me time to make this fix.
Thanks.
#883
I rode around with that light on, no horn and the ugly steering wheel for quite a while. Finally bought a unit on E bay. It was a very easy job. Here's one in the UK, cheap, if you're interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STEERING-WH...AAAOSwfkdZjKXu
#884
I was changing out my console lid cover and clock on dash. Of course one of the screws had to go into the shifter assemebly.
Found the screw and this same broken part. I immediately thought of your post!
I didn't use the brad nails as you did but used the JB plastic weld epoxy (in grey) and filled in the voids after using abs/plastic fuse material.
Your right - this part (which is hidden when all is together) is much, much stronger.
I had a spare shifter assembly, which I installed - to give me time to make this fix.
Thanks.
Found the screw and this same broken part. I immediately thought of your post!
I didn't use the brad nails as you did but used the JB plastic weld epoxy (in grey) and filled in the voids after using abs/plastic fuse material.
Your right - this part (which is hidden when all is together) is much, much stronger.
I had a spare shifter assembly, which I installed - to give me time to make this fix.
Thanks.
#885
#886
Found a new clock spring for my 07 at a good price, $100, plus tax, & shipping.
From Sharjah, United Arab Emirates, of all places anyone ever hear of this seller?
The list price is $227, even with my discount this is a lot better price.
Looks like the word genuine, is not used much there.
Said it shipped today, will be here Monday, thats pretty fast from there to me.
From Sharjah, United Arab Emirates, of all places anyone ever hear of this seller?
The list price is $227, even with my discount this is a lot better price.
Looks like the word genuine, is not used much there.
Said it shipped today, will be here Monday, thats pretty fast from there to me.
Last edited by GGG; 02-22-2020 at 03:14 AM.
#887
Today I replaced the ACC module in my '04 XJR. Mine went out a few weeks ago and I figured I was screwed because there's no way I was paying $5000 for new one. I set up an alert on eBay and one came up last week for $550. I immediately bought it and it happened to be the updated -BE version, which I think fixes the original issue with these units. It was plug and play and works great. That was a small miracle.
And, I replaced my blower motor module today as well. The glove box was fun. Like wrestling a bear, but it all worked out.
Huge thanks to everyone who participates on this forum. I would have given up on this car a long time ago if it wasn't for you all.
Now to find that coolant leak....
And, I replaced my blower motor module today as well. The glove box was fun. Like wrestling a bear, but it all worked out.
Huge thanks to everyone who participates on this forum. I would have given up on this car a long time ago if it wasn't for you all.
Now to find that coolant leak....
The following users liked this post:
Panthro (03-31-2020)
#888
Today I replaced the ACC module in my '04 XJR. Mine went out a few weeks ago and I figured I was screwed because there's no way I was paying $5000 for new one. I set up an alert on eBay and one came up last week for $550. I immediately bought it and it happened to be the updated -BE version, which I think fixes the original issue with these units. It was plug and play and works great. That was a small miracle.
And, I replaced my blower motor module today as well. The glove box was fun. Like wrestling a bear, but it all worked out.
Huge thanks to everyone who participates on this forum. I would have given up on this car a long time ago if it wasn't for you all.
Now to find that coolant leak....
And, I replaced my blower motor module today as well. The glove box was fun. Like wrestling a bear, but it all worked out.
Huge thanks to everyone who participates on this forum. I would have given up on this car a long time ago if it wasn't for you all.
Now to find that coolant leak....
#889
The part I ended up getting is 2W93-9AA12-BE, which is replacing my 2W93-9AA12-BD. I read that this BE unit is the newer version. Here's the forum thread that really helped me figure it all out: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...21/#post466182
The following users liked this post:
Panthro (03-31-2020)
#890
My first week of xX350 ownership and had to deal with the P0171,P0174 and P0420 codes along with bonnet latches and cable that needed freeing off not allowing the bonnet to lock.
I'm fairly confident the P0171 and 174 codes have gone as the previous service tech left the air inlet hose clamp loose along with not assembling the air box correctly. I also changed the maf sensor for a new item while in that area as i was averaging 18mpg driving like my Aunty.
I'm hoping the P0420 code was also related to the shoddy work and will pop a couple of bottles of Cataclean through the car and keep my fingers crossed.
Have also bought one of Andy's compressor ring kits, spark plugs and inlet manifold gaskets.
Many thanks to all for all the good info on the site, it has really helped with researching the various ailments i'll be working through.
I'm fairly confident the P0171 and 174 codes have gone as the previous service tech left the air inlet hose clamp loose along with not assembling the air box correctly. I also changed the maf sensor for a new item while in that area as i was averaging 18mpg driving like my Aunty.
I'm hoping the P0420 code was also related to the shoddy work and will pop a couple of bottles of Cataclean through the car and keep my fingers crossed.
Have also bought one of Andy's compressor ring kits, spark plugs and inlet manifold gaskets.
Many thanks to all for all the good info on the site, it has really helped with researching the various ailments i'll be working through.
#892
#893
I have the upper manifold seals (6 as my car is a v6) in preparation for changing the plugs. I am curious about the valley hose. Is my car fitted with the angled elbow rubber hose that seems to wear through? If possible do you have a picture of the valley hose on a 2006 V6 3.0? Thanks for your input.
#894
In the 4.2's it runs front to back, under the manifold.
So if the manifold is off, even if its not leaking, you might want to replace it
Did not realize you had a 3.0. so i don't know if you have the hose.
You can down load a shop manual on site.
I purchased one before i found this site had the same thing for free.
X350 Workshop Manual in six sections (thanks to DB6)
Table Of Contents
General Information
Chassis
Powertrain
Electrical
Body
X350 Technical Guide 2004-2005 (Thanks to Gus)
So if the manifold is off, even if its not leaking, you might want to replace it
Did not realize you had a 3.0. so i don't know if you have the hose.
You can down load a shop manual on site.
I purchased one before i found this site had the same thing for free.
X350 Workshop Manual in six sections (thanks to DB6)
Table Of Contents
General Information
Chassis
Powertrain
Electrical
Body
X350 Technical Guide 2004-2005 (Thanks to Gus)
#895
#896
Finally warmed up in the garage...
Trans has been draining for 2 weeks and yes, it was still dripping. (Had to wait for original ZF pan/filter then it got too cold)
I was borderline if I go the extra mile to change the bridge and tube seals as the trans is approaching 100K miles. (Was previously serviced - no drivability issues or codes)
Decided to swap them out while I had access and time.
Tube seals were hard and a PITA to get out. New mechatronic seal was also a PITA to fully seat. Had to do it 3X and wedged it in with a block of wood and a pry bar to ensure 3mm gap between mechatronic latch and trans body.
Bridge seal looked ok.
Measured fluid - I got 7L out and 7.25L of LG6 in...
Reason for servicing.
The original mechatronic seal (orange o rings) was leaking, badly. Glad I caught it.
Glad I went the extra mile.
Transmission feels like new... I had an occasional 2 - 1 downshift "bump" - now, no more!!!
Didn't reset adaptions.
I wanted to also switch out the o rings on the oil filter assembly to block (its leaking) but I have to lift the engine up to get the bottom bolt out. So, I'll do it next time!
PS - Fresh oil and oil filter!
Trans has been draining for 2 weeks and yes, it was still dripping. (Had to wait for original ZF pan/filter then it got too cold)
I was borderline if I go the extra mile to change the bridge and tube seals as the trans is approaching 100K miles. (Was previously serviced - no drivability issues or codes)
Decided to swap them out while I had access and time.
Tube seals were hard and a PITA to get out. New mechatronic seal was also a PITA to fully seat. Had to do it 3X and wedged it in with a block of wood and a pry bar to ensure 3mm gap between mechatronic latch and trans body.
Bridge seal looked ok.
Measured fluid - I got 7L out and 7.25L of LG6 in...
Reason for servicing.
The original mechatronic seal (orange o rings) was leaking, badly. Glad I caught it.
Glad I went the extra mile.
Transmission feels like new... I had an occasional 2 - 1 downshift "bump" - now, no more!!!
Didn't reset adaptions.
I wanted to also switch out the o rings on the oil filter assembly to block (its leaking) but I have to lift the engine up to get the bottom bolt out. So, I'll do it next time!
PS - Fresh oil and oil filter!
Last edited by abonano; 03-07-2020 at 08:32 PM.
#898
#900
Thanks.
Basically transfer the mounting base from the xj seat onto the xf seat, remove all modules and wiring and replace with the xj harness and module. Added the cooled/ heated function that I already had to the xf seats as all mounting points were there and the same. I was a bit dubious about the cooling function working as the leather is not perforated but I can report it still works well.
Basically transfer the mounting base from the xj seat onto the xf seat, remove all modules and wiring and replace with the xj harness and module. Added the cooled/ heated function that I already had to the xf seats as all mounting points were there and the same. I was a bit dubious about the cooling function working as the leather is not perforated but I can report it still works well.