When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finished the install of the refurbed air suspension compressor and no suspension warning light anymore. I also made a start with the clay bar and machine polisher though only got the bonnet finished for now.
Purchased a used aux coolant pump off of Ebay last year. It was bad, seller refunded me and told me to keep the part.
Took it apart, replaced the brushes and put back together.
Good as new now!
Has to get installed over the summer as my current aux coolant pump in car is not working. Going to rebuild that one too as I purchased an extra set of brushes.
Not bad to do. Just file off about 1/4" off the brush and put a vertical V notch in the back of the brush for the tension spring...
Had to replace the key fob, found a new genuine Jaguar fob from ebay for $49, beats $200 from the $tealer$hip, only took a minute to program the new fob. Old fob was 07/2003 and new fob 09/2014, I compared the circuit boards of both and there's been some big changes. Was surprised the original fob was 2003 for a 2006 car.
Replaced the seals for the VVT solenoids, as they had started leaking oil. I ordered a pair of genuine Ford seals for $5ea, the originals had the Ford part number on them. Avoided the Jaguar tax ($50ea) on these too. When installing the seals I heard a hissing noise, I found the connection to the air strut was loose and when I touched the airline air would escape, a quick tighten of the connection and all was good again.
Valve body preventative refresh. Pan/Filter, Solenoids, seals and dampers. Shifting "1 to 2" is a little harsh now. waiting on one more quart of fluid to bring it up to the correct level since this may be the problem.
But can anyone advise me on the need to reset the transmission shift adaptations after such a service? It was shifting ok before. A little "2 to 1" bump is the reason I did this valve body overhaul.
What exactly did you purchase to do the valve body preventative refresh and where?
Also I understand that you are supposed to run something like LR SDD to reset the TCM.
Hello . The parts are new ZF from Eriksson Ind. (see first photo) so I am confident that the materials are probably not suspect. They were super helpful and professional in my experience with this first order with them.
I will need to do some more research on who in my area may be able to best perform a reset.
Thank you.
Dan
I changed out my fuel filter on my 04 XJR. Much easier than having to take the front wheel and shield off and playing around with those white clips.
Drop drivers side under cover. 3 - 10mm bolts hold the retention tray for the filter.
16mm and 20mm wrenches. Car was off for a day plus so no fuel splash. For some odd reason the front line seemed loose (but was not leaking)
No o rings from what I could tell. Lines were flared.
Old one (Jaguar OEM) out after finagling with the lines and a new Wix fuel filter on.
Tightened up the fittings.
Cycled the ignition 3X to prime the line and the beast started right up. Checked for leaks - none.
Put the cover back on and added some anti seize to each bolt for safe measure.
Checked fuel coming out of old filter. Not bad but could see brownish fluid towards the end. Had a date code of 2012 so I can say it was changed previously.
I've seen some bad fuel coming out of other filters. This one was middle of the road but nonetheless - glad I did it finally!
Also checked the trans pan (since I did the trans fluid recently) saw a bit of fluid on the new T40 bolts near the fill plug.
Double checked those bolts - they were fine l, the fill plug. Was super tight and got my inspection camera to check to ensure the mechatronic seal was not leaking. (It was not)
I'll chalk that up to residual fluid after checking the fluid level and capping off the fill plug. I'll check on it in about a week or so.
I also touch painted the passenger side front bumper with a $50 paint kit from Amazon that matched paint color. Great stuff!!!
Had been 3 weeks since I pulled and sent leaking front struts back for warranty. Today the warrantied struts and new upper a-arms went in. I also took the time to rotate the tires, giving the wheels a thorough cleaning while they were off. Then a nice wash job and the XJR is ready for action. Actually looking forward to the ride into work tomorrow :-)
Curious, what prompted you to tighten the trans bolts?
The jag is new to me and it’s the first time I have had an automatic. I have a situation where I am getting stuck in park. When I park the car I always put on the electric park brake before switching the engine off. When I start the car, I press the brake pedal, disengage park brake, try to shift in gear with my foot still on the brake pedal and it would be stuck. I therefore checked the 2 bolts to make sure they were tight. One was slightly loose. Don’t know if it’s me being an idiot but the only way I do not get stuck is if I switch on, foot on brake pedal, disengage park brake, foot off brake pedal, foot back on the brake pedal, then it shifts. Not sure if this is normal procedure?
The jag is new to me and it’s the first time I have had an automatic. I have a situation where I am getting stuck in park. When I park the car I always put on the electric park brake before switching the engine off. When I start the car, I press the brake pedal, disengage park brake, try to shift in gear with my foot still on the brake pedal and it would be stuck. I therefore checked the 2 bolts to make sure they were tight. One was slightly loose. Don’t know if it’s me being an idiot but the only way I do not get stuck is if I switch on, foot on brake pedal, disengage park brake, foot off brake pedal, foot back on the brake pedal, then it shifts. Not sure if this is normal procedure?
Smart move tightening those 2 bolts. As added insurance you can add a bit of lock tite to the studs.
The jag is new to me and it’s the first time I have had an automatic. I have a situation where I am getting stuck in park. When I park the car I always put on the electric park brake before switching the engine off. When I start the car, I press the brake pedal, disengage park brake, try to shift in gear with my foot still on the brake pedal and it would be stuck. I therefore checked the 2 bolts to make sure they were tight. One was slightly loose. Don’t know if it’s me being an idiot but the only way I do not get stuck is if I switch on, foot on brake pedal, disengage park brake, foot off brake pedal, foot back on the brake pedal, then it shifts. Not sure if this is normal procedure?
when you turn off car and remove key p brake automatically applies. When you start vehicle and place in park the p brake automatically releases. Try that and see if u get stuck. If I remember correctly the shift lock solenoid gets weak in the shifter or even dirty. Lift off the bezel you can see it on the right side.