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Nice....like the note you are now getting,
Would be interesting to know if there is any perceivable increase in power with the reduction in exhaust restriction.
Just hope the HO2 sensors don't get the pip with the change of flow.
So far, I do feel a slight improve in terms of performance It's not exactly huge, but it feels a bit snappier than before.
About the O2 sensor, I don't think it's quite affected (no CEL light yet or any oddities haha).
Finally got around to replacing the sagging headliner and repairing a torn driver seat side bolster. Took the seats out, this made it very easy to remove the headlined through the rear passenger side door. Didn't have a before picture of the seats, so I didn't include the after.
Hello giskard,
the material I used was from this site, https://headlinermagic.net/products/...39430964183118.
The glue was Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive, item # 27828. I don't know if it's the best, but It was readily available in my area.
Finally got around to replacing the sagging headliner and repairing a torn driver seat side bolster. Took the seats out, this made it very easy to remove the headlined through the rear passenger side door. Didn't have a before picture of the seats, so I didn't include the after.
Very nicely done! Tried doing the headliner job two times on mine but it looked very bad so I ended up letting a shop fix it, now it looks really nice
I've had the JagDriod unit for a few years and recently started to have issues with the inability to get a signal. After troubleshooting, and checking all connections. I couldn't rectify the problem, so I decided to give the Tesla unit a try. I also added a USB port where the cigarette lighter was, since I don't smoke. Everything is good so far.
New Alternator installed yesterday with a new serpentine belt (SO GLAD I have a 4 post lift) , today is reseal the cam covers with new gaskets, install a new MAS, chase the PS suction leak and repair, figure out the Transmission line leak at the rubber hoses, and see what else needs to be fixed to get a P1111 and go for an emission test. Colorado started a new law in January that the ECM must be in P1111 or they will not perform an emission test
Then I see, yes, I also need to do the headliner, fix the audio issues of the midrange speakers, clean and reset all the ground points.
Tried to get to cylinder 8 spark plug again today (gave up yesterday after changing the other 7). Figured out the coils rubber sheaf has decided to hang on to the plug hence my plug socket not reaching all the way down…. Has to be hard to reach number 8 of course…. So superglue on the end of the coil and replaced hoping it will come out with coil once the glue cures. Maybe try again tomorrow…
You know, I have to wonder about the mindset of the design engineers when they decide to do things like rendering access to cylinder #8 nearly impossible, or installing the alternator in such a place that engine mounts must be removed to replace it. How about the parking brake motor? I had mine in the dealership to get it done last year. Two days labour. It only takes 10 minutes to replace the motor. It takes hours to disassemble the rear end, suspension, and remove the exhaust. The motor was 250 on Ebay. $2600 labour to replace it.
It seems planned, doesn't it?
Good luck with the crazy glue, but I am pretty sure that it won't hold. You need something like a flexible forceps-like instrument. All I can think of is biopsy forceps. Even they will be difficult to negotiate around the obstacles.
Perhaps a flexible four-pronged 'grabber' would work if you made the prongs hook shaped. Good luck!
I had this problem last weekend during a trip to Italy, which made driving a lot more uncomfortable than usual ,as the rear suspension was also rock hard... at least for most of the trip, with a short period of perfectly normal behaviour in between...
The dash warning "air suspension fault" was on, and the error codes were first only C2302 (levelling plausibility error), and then also C1885 (Rear right height sensor - open circuit/short circuit to ground).
During my almost 6 years of ownership I had already replaced all four shocks (with OEM Bilsteins) and reconditioned the compressor with Bag Piping Andy's kit. The battery is less than 3 years old, but I have it checked, together with the alternator... all fine.
So, between yesterday and today, I replaced the rear right height sensor, deleted all errors and tried to reconfigure the suspension via SDD, which was not straight forward as in the beginning the rear suspension was still too high and out of range for the calibration program. Only after deflating the rear shocks via SDD was I able to start the calibration mode.
Result? Errors gone, normal ride height reinstated, but it seems that the shocks remain in "hard" mode, which I will have to look into soon. But the car is drivable again and I will do a lot of test drives in the next days, as we plan a road trip to France soon, and I would like to take the Jag.
You know, I have to wonder about the mindset of the design engineers when they decide to do things like rendering access to cylinder #8 nearly impossible, or installing the alternator in such a place that engine mounts must be removed to replace it. How about the parking brake motor? I had mine in the dealership to get it done last year. Two days labour. It only takes 10 minutes to replace the motor. It takes hours to disassemble the rear end, suspension, and remove the exhaust. The motor was 250 on Ebay. $2600 labour to replace it.
It seems planned, doesn't it?
Good luck with the crazy glue, but I am pretty sure that it won't hold. You need something like a flexible forceps-like instrument. All I can think of is biopsy forceps. Even they will be difficult to negotiate around the obstacles.
Perhaps a flexible four-pronged 'grabber' would work if you made the prongs hook shaped. Good luck!
Well the reason I left it over night was because it didn’t hold….. I’ve been thinking about making some kind of contraption I can screw and cut into the rubber sheaf but yes, what a nightmare some “simple” jobs are. Coming from the CLK where everything is so simple and well thought out for maintenance, the Jag is worse than working on my Alfa164 and that’s pretty bad….
As part of the 4 year ownership anniversary, I gave the Cat a much deseved, overdue paint correction. Not really the best job, especially since I only did 1 step instead of 2, but I learned a lot from it, and it came out really good
So today I found the source of my bank 1 too lean code with the wonderful reduced power error. It improved after replacing seals on PCV valve which was leaking at the valve cover end along with the associated vacuum hose which had a perished seal at the induction side but I could still hear a vacuum leak which I could not locate until I made a toy stethoscope into a mechanics instrument with a metal straw and located the problem…. Seems I pinched the seal on the new injector I installed... D’oh!! My bad. Wondering where the rest ended up…? Probably stuck on a cat… Have reused the old injector’s seal for now and no more leak!!
Alternator. Starter, Cam Covers, no more too lean / restricted performance
So last month I went in for an emissions test on my 2005 X350 XJ8L 4.2 NA, of course right after changing to a new H8 AGM battery. Emission test has changed in Colorado as of 1 January 2024. ECM must have passed ALL Drive Cycles and display P1111 or they will not even perform a test.
Well with a new battery, the drive cycles were not completed, P1000 and I probably had too lean bank 1&2 which in previous years would have passed on the Dyno.
Good part is, no more dyno test on 1996 and forward if they have an OBDII, they just check the ECM is "ready" and there are no ECM codes and you are passed and hit the road.
Drove home, next day went to the Doctor to get drugs for sinusitis. Coming back to the car, smelled electronics phenolic smell under the hood right side but no smoke or melted anything. Got started, car went into limp home. Drove right onto the lift.
Alternator failed, starter failed so replaced both (soooo glad I have a lift ...). Battery tested perfect and had been charged before installation, and there is no IDS/SDD reset installing a new battery on a 2005 X350 like on newer JLR's.
I now realize a lot of codes were coming from the fact the alternator was failing but no codes until it totally failed.
Then resealed both cam covers and the oil fill spout, part and full load crinkle hoses replaced with quality rubber vacuum hoses, replaced MAS, PCV, checked the all new iridium and coils were all in perfect gap and working, oil and filter change, PS fluid change.
Hooked up IDS/SDD, saved the last state, reset everything, recalled the black box folder and reset that code. Went for a drive, completed all drive cycles in about 20 minutes.
By that time I was on 30 day grace registration period, so went to Emissions test, in/out with no problems with a clean and ready ECM.
After resealing the cam covers, oil spout and replacing all the load hoses with more durable vacuum hoses, all "too lean bank 1/2" disappeared, restricted performance from the vapor purge also gone, around town mileage is consistently better than 25 mpg, performance is great (touch wood)
Now to focus on all the body code issues and cleaning the grounds ...
03-01-2024, 11:00 PM
It's not exactly huge, but it feels a bit snappier than before. 
Alternator. Starter, Cam Covers, no more too lean / restricted performance