Won't pass emissions test help please!!
#1
Won't pass emissions test help please!!
Hello everyone, I need help. I love jags but sometimes these little problems can drive me nuts. I have a 2008 jaguar xj8. recently went to get my emmission test done and I didn't pass. I have one code says P0577. The person there told me I need to get that fixes or cleared I order for my car to pass the test. I also noticed 6 different of my sensors weren't ready on the reading. Is there a drive cycle that needs to be done? If so how long. Please help. I've ran out of options and the trip permit expires in 2 weeks. Thanks anything helps.
#2
Hmmm..
First thing first, go by an autozone or the like and have them read the codes. PO577 isn't on a list for Jaguar that I am aware of, which also begs the question, is the smoke house you're using even properly calibrated.
Is the check engine light on?
Here is a great list of codes for your car:
http://www.jagrepair.com/DTCforms/X1...C_OBDII_R1.pdf
This PDF also states the required intervals of key sequences needed before all the readiness codes are cleared (being a P1111).
I chased a CEL / lean issue for months (also trying to get through smoke) and I had a myriad of issues, vacuum leaks (very common), a bad MAF (also common, easy to fix and not too bank breaking) and believe it or not, a massive vacuum leak within my brake booster (very weird and uncommon on late cars especially), which was throwing the lean codes.
One point of caution. Codes are sequenced and can daisy chain to indicate failures on other systems that are working fine. In other words, when my MAF code was thrown, it showed ignition missing in two cylinders on the left bank and an O2 sensor failure. I replaced the coil packs, and still had the issue. Once I replaced the MAF itself, it killed all the staged and triggered codes (after a hard reset) and hasn't popped back up in four months.
Good luck and hang-in. As the archives helped me and I can attest, most the issues are solvable without huge investment.
Hope that helps, but before you fret too much, get a rundown of the codes from a local autoparts store (its free) and report back. You can also purchase a code reader (a required tool in your toolbox these days) that's bluetooth capable for $30.00, get yourself a $4.00 app, and you'll have real-time data logging on your phone which will show all the vitals.
Lastly, once you read the codes, try hard resetting the car. There are a few ways to do this, but I like the ultra-safe way, being to unhook both battery cables from the battery and then touching the two cables together (with no battery in the mix!!!) for a minute or so. This drains the "volatile memory" from the ECU (i.e drains the capacitors) and does a hard reboot. Hook the cables back up to the battery and then start the car. The car needs to re-learn you and itself, so the thing will idle weird (hunt like crazy) and snort a bit for 5 minutes or so until all is well (let it idle and return to normal). Then re-read codes. This (alone) might just get you through smoke.
Cheers,
Jeff
First thing first, go by an autozone or the like and have them read the codes. PO577 isn't on a list for Jaguar that I am aware of, which also begs the question, is the smoke house you're using even properly calibrated.
Is the check engine light on?
Here is a great list of codes for your car:
http://www.jagrepair.com/DTCforms/X1...C_OBDII_R1.pdf
This PDF also states the required intervals of key sequences needed before all the readiness codes are cleared (being a P1111).
I chased a CEL / lean issue for months (also trying to get through smoke) and I had a myriad of issues, vacuum leaks (very common), a bad MAF (also common, easy to fix and not too bank breaking) and believe it or not, a massive vacuum leak within my brake booster (very weird and uncommon on late cars especially), which was throwing the lean codes.
One point of caution. Codes are sequenced and can daisy chain to indicate failures on other systems that are working fine. In other words, when my MAF code was thrown, it showed ignition missing in two cylinders on the left bank and an O2 sensor failure. I replaced the coil packs, and still had the issue. Once I replaced the MAF itself, it killed all the staged and triggered codes (after a hard reset) and hasn't popped back up in four months.
Good luck and hang-in. As the archives helped me and I can attest, most the issues are solvable without huge investment.
Hope that helps, but before you fret too much, get a rundown of the codes from a local autoparts store (its free) and report back. You can also purchase a code reader (a required tool in your toolbox these days) that's bluetooth capable for $30.00, get yourself a $4.00 app, and you'll have real-time data logging on your phone which will show all the vitals.
Lastly, once you read the codes, try hard resetting the car. There are a few ways to do this, but I like the ultra-safe way, being to unhook both battery cables from the battery and then touching the two cables together (with no battery in the mix!!!) for a minute or so. This drains the "volatile memory" from the ECU (i.e drains the capacitors) and does a hard reboot. Hook the cables back up to the battery and then start the car. The car needs to re-learn you and itself, so the thing will idle weird (hunt like crazy) and snort a bit for 5 minutes or so until all is well (let it idle and return to normal). Then re-read codes. This (alone) might just get you through smoke.
Cheers,
Jeff
Last edited by Broken_Spanners; 09-10-2014 at 10:32 PM.
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Don B (09-10-2014)
#3
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Hello everyone, I need help. I love jags but sometimes these little problems can drive me nuts. I have a 2008 jaguar xj8. recently went to get my emmission test done and I didn't pass. I have one code says P0577. The person there told me I need to get that fixes or cleared I order for my car to pass the test. I also noticed 6 different of my sensors weren't ready on the reading. Is there a drive cycle that needs to be done? If so how long. Please help. I've ran out of options and the trip permit expires in 2 weeks. Thanks anything helps.
Jeff has given you some good advice. I think he inadvertently grabbed the link to the XK8 Diagnostic Trouble Code summaries instead of those for the 2004 and later XJ8, which can be found here:
http://www.jagrepair.com/DTCforms/X350_P_DTC_OBD_II.pdf
An even more exhaustive list of X350 DTCs can be found in the various sections of the X350 Workshop Manual, which can be dowloaded for free in six sections from the X350 'HOW TO' quick links thread near the top of the home page of this forum.
"P" fault codes are in the Powertrain section of the manual. The closest code I could find to your P0577 was P057717, which indicates "Speed control input circuit high," an electrical problem with the speed control/cruise control. It's possible that the emissions tester's scanner truncated the code to a standard 5-digits. However, this may or may not be the problem your fault code represents, and it would definitely be worth having the codes read again. Note that most of the scanners used by AutoZone and other parts store chains may be able to read the Emissions-related Powertrain (P) codes on your car, but probably will not be able to read any of the Jaguar-specific Body (B), Chassis (C) or Undefined (U) codes, which may require dealer-level equipment such as the SDD (Symptom Driven Diagnostics) software-based system or a high-end third-party system such as AutoEnginuity with the enhanced Jaguar-specific interface.
Especially if you don't have a Check Engine Light, it might be worth trying Jeff's hard reset idea, driving the car through several heat-up/cool-down cycles, then having the codes scanned again to see if the P0577 reappears. If it doesn't, it may have just been a spurious code to begin with.
Please keep us informed!
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 09-10-2014 at 11:17 PM.
#5
Hello once again and I do appreciate that you guys have time to help me out. I'm thinking doing a hard reset on the car first which hasn't been done yet and I think that might also take care of the problem. It's weird that the car has no check engine light and drives great. Plus it only had 38k miles on it and I'm the 2nd owner. After I do the reset I will go to a shop and get it scanned and see who knows
Maybe the code won't appear. I will keep you guys posted.
Maybe the code won't appear. I will keep you guys posted.
#6
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Don B (09-11-2014)
#7
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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Related issue on my Aunt's Renault Laguna recently, up for its MOT (Yearly test including emmissions)
The dash was lit up like a christmas tree and the "Anti pollution light" was lit on amber, an indication that the cats were getting blocked.
The car's only done around 5k since this time last year and they just tootle around very easy.
A code read showed the lambda 02 sensor after the cat was at fault / failing.
The remedy was similar to above.
The car was serviced, oil & filter change and a new air filter. The I added some Millers fuel treatment ( similar to the above product ) and the car was ran down the motorway in 3rd gear at around 70mph ( high revs) for about 20 miles.
This allowed the car to get up to temp and help to burn off sooty deposits, the light went out with no further action, MOT passed and has not returned to date.
This may relate to your car and be a possible good first step for a quick, easy and cheap fix.....worth trying at least?
The dash was lit up like a christmas tree and the "Anti pollution light" was lit on amber, an indication that the cats were getting blocked.
The car's only done around 5k since this time last year and they just tootle around very easy.
A code read showed the lambda 02 sensor after the cat was at fault / failing.
The remedy was similar to above.
The car was serviced, oil & filter change and a new air filter. The I added some Millers fuel treatment ( similar to the above product ) and the car was ran down the motorway in 3rd gear at around 70mph ( high revs) for about 20 miles.
This allowed the car to get up to temp and help to burn off sooty deposits, the light went out with no further action, MOT passed and has not returned to date.
This may relate to your car and be a possible good first step for a quick, easy and cheap fix.....worth trying at least?
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#8
Hello everyone thanks for all of your help and here's what I ended up doing. Anyways so I finally took my jag to the emmissions place to see if I would pass. So what the problem is now only 3 of my sensors aren't ready and the code that came up p0577 it doesn't effect the test. The other guy didn't know what he was talking about when he told me it's because of this code I can't pass my emmissions test. From this last time that I went here are the 3 sensors that aren't ready and need to go through the drive cycle.
Evap:unready
2nd air: unready
O2 sensor:unready
Anyways does anyone know what kind of drive cycle I should preform for on the car for these to become ready? I am thinking about doing the pass your emmissions liquid test. I will be leaving out of town for a few days maybe that's gonna do the trick and get those ready it's gonna be over 200 mile trip. Thanks once again!
Evap:unready
2nd air: unready
O2 sensor:unready
Anyways does anyone know what kind of drive cycle I should preform for on the car for these to become ready? I am thinking about doing the pass your emmissions liquid test. I will be leaving out of town for a few days maybe that's gonna do the trick and get those ready it's gonna be over 200 mile trip. Thanks once again!
#9
Here in OZ the EPA did some random checks on dealers new cars requiring all to pass tests
see here Sign In - OzClubbies
The requirements from the manufacturer on the dealer was to
1. Change the oil
2. Fit new air and ail filters
3. replace o2 sensors
4. Rest computer and complete drive cycles and give the car a good flogging to shake up any carbon deposits
5. Change oil again
6. Make sure the car is hot (long drive) before the tests so the cats are fully working
Hope that helps
If you have code scanner look for the P1001 so you have completed the drive cycles
Also look at the long term fuel trims are close to 0 and if they are not chase any vac leaks
Cheers
34by151
see here Sign In - OzClubbies
The requirements from the manufacturer on the dealer was to
1. Change the oil
2. Fit new air and ail filters
3. replace o2 sensors
4. Rest computer and complete drive cycles and give the car a good flogging to shake up any carbon deposits
5. Change oil again
6. Make sure the car is hot (long drive) before the tests so the cats are fully working
Hope that helps
If you have code scanner look for the P1001 so you have completed the drive cycles
Also look at the long term fuel trims are close to 0 and if they are not chase any vac leaks
Cheers
34by151
Last edited by 34by151; 09-12-2014 at 08:06 PM.
#10
Hello everyone thanks for all of your help and here's what I ended up doing. Anyways so I finally took my jag to the emmissions place to see if I would pass. So what the problem is now only 3 of my sensors aren't ready and the code that came up p0577 it doesn't effect the test. The other guy didn't know what he was talking about when he told me it's because of this code I can't pass my emmissions test. From this last time that I went here are the 3 sensors that aren't ready and need to go through the drive cycle.
Evap:unready
2nd air: unready
O2 sensor:unready
Anyways does anyone know what kind of drive cycle I should preform for on the car for these to become ready? I am thinking about doing the pass your emmissions liquid test. I will be leaving out of town for a few days maybe that's gonna do the trick and get those ready it's gonna be over 200 mile trip. Thanks once again!
Evap:unready
2nd air: unready
O2 sensor:unready
Anyways does anyone know what kind of drive cycle I should preform for on the car for these to become ready? I am thinking about doing the pass your emmissions liquid test. I will be leaving out of town for a few days maybe that's gonna do the trick and get those ready it's gonna be over 200 mile trip. Thanks once again!
Codes like that will stop what you've wrongly been told are sensors. They're not. They're OBD monitors and google to find what they truly are.
Every monitor has things that must be OK or it'll not run. That's where your car is at.
Fix the code and maybe it's all that's wrong so the monitors can run.
#11
Hmmm..
First thing first, go by an autozone or the like and have them read the codes. PO577 isn't on a list for Jaguar that I am aware of, which also begs the question, is the smoke house you're using even properly calibrated.
Is the check engine light on?
Here is a great list of codes for your car:
http://www.jagrepair.com/DTCforms/X1...C_OBDII_R1.pdf
This PDF also states the required intervals of key sequences needed before all the readiness codes are cleared (being a P1111).
I chased a CEL / lean issue for months (also trying to get through smoke) and I had a myriad of issues, vacuum leaks (very common), a bad MAF (also common, easy to fix and not too bank breaking) and believe it or not, a massive vacuum leak within my brake booster (very weird and uncommon on late cars especially), which was throwing the lean codes.
One point of caution. Codes are sequenced and can daisy chain to indicate failures on other systems that are working fine. In other words, when my MAF code was thrown, it showed ignition missing in two cylinders on the left bank and an O2 sensor failure. I replaced the coil packs, and still had the issue. Once I replaced the MAF itself, it killed all the staged and triggered codes (after a hard reset) and hasn't popped back up in four months.
Good luck and hang-in. As the archives helped me and I can attest, most the issues are solvable without huge investment.
Hope that helps, but before you fret too much, get a rundown of the codes from a local autoparts store (its free) and report back. You can also purchase a code reader (a required tool in your toolbox these days) that's bluetooth capable for $30.00, get yourself a $4.00 app, and you'll have real-time data logging on your phone which will show all the vitals.
Lastly, once you read the codes, try hard resetting the car. There are a few ways to do this, but I like the ultra-safe way, being to unhook both battery cables from the battery and then touching the two cables together (with no battery in the mix!!!) for a minute or so. This drains the "volatile memory" from the ECU (i.e drains the capacitors) and does a hard reboot. Hook the cables back up to the battery and then start the car. The car needs to re-learn you and itself, so the thing will idle weird (hunt like crazy) and snort a bit for 5 minutes or so until all is well (let it idle and return to normal). Then re-read codes. This (alone) might just get you through smoke.
Cheers,
Jeff
First thing first, go by an autozone or the like and have them read the codes. PO577 isn't on a list for Jaguar that I am aware of, which also begs the question, is the smoke house you're using even properly calibrated.
Is the check engine light on?
Here is a great list of codes for your car:
http://www.jagrepair.com/DTCforms/X1...C_OBDII_R1.pdf
This PDF also states the required intervals of key sequences needed before all the readiness codes are cleared (being a P1111).
I chased a CEL / lean issue for months (also trying to get through smoke) and I had a myriad of issues, vacuum leaks (very common), a bad MAF (also common, easy to fix and not too bank breaking) and believe it or not, a massive vacuum leak within my brake booster (very weird and uncommon on late cars especially), which was throwing the lean codes.
One point of caution. Codes are sequenced and can daisy chain to indicate failures on other systems that are working fine. In other words, when my MAF code was thrown, it showed ignition missing in two cylinders on the left bank and an O2 sensor failure. I replaced the coil packs, and still had the issue. Once I replaced the MAF itself, it killed all the staged and triggered codes (after a hard reset) and hasn't popped back up in four months.
Good luck and hang-in. As the archives helped me and I can attest, most the issues are solvable without huge investment.
Hope that helps, but before you fret too much, get a rundown of the codes from a local autoparts store (its free) and report back. You can also purchase a code reader (a required tool in your toolbox these days) that's bluetooth capable for $30.00, get yourself a $4.00 app, and you'll have real-time data logging on your phone which will show all the vitals.
Lastly, once you read the codes, try hard resetting the car. There are a few ways to do this, but I like the ultra-safe way, being to unhook both battery cables from the battery and then touching the two cables together (with no battery in the mix!!!) for a minute or so. This drains the "volatile memory" from the ECU (i.e drains the capacitors) and does a hard reboot. Hook the cables back up to the battery and then start the car. The car needs to re-learn you and itself, so the thing will idle weird (hunt like crazy) and snort a bit for 5 minutes or so until all is well (let it idle and return to normal). Then re-read codes. This (alone) might just get you through smoke.
Cheers,
Jeff
Any idea if I just keep driving how long would it take to reset.. if ever?
#12
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Location: Crossroads of America
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Hi Kelly,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums!
I'm sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Jag. I note that you have also posted a question about burping your cooling system after replacing the thermostat. Is the reason you can't pass the emissions test due to a Low Coolant warning on the dash, or a Check Engine Light (CEL) that indicates that one or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are stored?
If the CEL is illuminated, the emissions tester should have informed you of the stored code or codes, which will help us assist you in resolving the issue. Please let us know.
Cheers,
Don
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kellyfontes (01-18-2015)
#13
Hello Don, Many thanks for the forum. I did find where to burp the vehicle and I had already done it correctly, just wanted to be sure as I have never worked on a Jag before. I had replaced the thermostat that is why the coolant was low. The check engine gave me the code for thermostat and/or the Temp sensor.
As for clearing check engine light, I found somewhere the DRIVE CYCLE for the vehicle I completed it got back home, and when I turned the car on a few hours later the check engine light cleared, drove 5 miles to emissions and it passed. Thanks again.
As for clearing check engine light, I found somewhere the DRIVE CYCLE for the vehicle I completed it got back home, and when I turned the car on a few hours later the check engine light cleared, drove 5 miles to emissions and it passed. Thanks again.
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Don B (01-18-2015)
#14
#15
#16
Drive Cycle
kellyfontes, I have been trying to complete the tests for the last 4 days. I downloaded and tried almost every drive cycle that I can find for my XJ-L. There are still 2 remaining (secondary air and Evap).
Can you share which DRIVE CYCLE you used to complete yours?
thanks,
Caglar
Can you share which DRIVE CYCLE you used to complete yours?
thanks,
Caglar
CERGUN,
Sorry but I can not find the drive cycle that I used and I can not remember the Engine code I searched for on this board. I do remember it went something like this. Also I did the drive cycle and it did not clear until I turned the car off and started it again.
Before I had done this I changed my oil and topped off my coolant.
From complete overnight cooldown.
-10 min idle with AC and Rear Defrost on. About 5 min in I picked up the idle to about 2500-3000 RPM to get the temp up.
-Got on the highway at a medium acceleration I got up to 55mph and set it on cruise for 3 min. I then took my foot off the gas and slowed down to 20 mph. (the first time I did this I did not get the 3 min in and got off the highway ramp and started over.
-from a dead stop, I accelerated hard up to 60 mpg, chiping the tires once I got rolling. RPM got to about 3500-4000 RPM.
- Drove for 3 min, then took my foot off the gas and got back down to 20Miles per Hour.
-Turned around and went home, light was still on. A while later I started the car, check engine light was off and I ran and got the smog check. PASS!!!
Best of luck amigo, I hope you get it to work. I still get the engine code on one and a while, some kind of misfire at startup, but then it goes away. The car runs great, I just think that P0101 or something is too sensitive.
#18
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
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From your post I gather that three of the diagnostic readiness monitors have not reset. This usually happens because diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared, or the battery has gone dead or been disconnected. If either of those is the case, you may just need to drive the car normally for 2 days to a week or more to reset the monitors.
If you haven't cleared codes or had a low battery voltage event or disconnection, are there any diagnostic trouble codes stored?
Cheers,
Don
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