WOW what a day!!
#21
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SO BIZARRE!! Just came back from doing some laps after re checking EVERYTHING I did up front, re tightened everything etc. I did some HARD ABS Stops then proceeded to drive and WOBBLE was GONE, hit a couple of bumps BAM right back again! W IN THE F!! lol Also had a loud squeal from the left front wheel then when turning slightly right it disappeared?? Thats indicative of a wheel bearing, causing the rotor to be on a different angle because of the wear then when you turn it corrects it. I am just going to order hubs f it. This is so ridiculous.
#22
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just put new banana arms on it, 50 bucks each. triple check wheels for bends
mine made it to 209k and needed a press to come off.
all you have to do is the take the brake off and spin. if it feels bad or makes noise it’s done. mine was really bad and it could be felt in the steering wheel and when braking
all you have to do is the take the brake off and spin. if it feels bad or makes noise it’s done. mine was really bad and it could be felt in the steering wheel and when braking
Last edited by xalty; 07-13-2021 at 11:47 PM.
#23
#24
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Good find. The interesting thing at some point I also changed one front hub as mechanic told me that one bearing spins with some swoosh noise but without play. I ordered pair but they convinced me there was no need to replace them in pair as its not tires or brake disks. I agreed. I think there was no change in wobbling on high speeds after that (doesn't bother me at city at all only on highways thus hard to say if that affected anything) Do you think its time to put new hub on other side too?) I can also cut brake disks additionally while sat on hub too to restore even rotation in case bent hub caused bending of brake disk.
I cut the original rotors with stock rims and pirellis rebalanced and it did zero.
#25
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just put new banana arms on it, 50 bucks each. triple check wheels for bends
mine made it to 209k and needed a press to come off.
all you have to do is the take the brake off and spin. if it feels bad or makes noise it’s done. mine was really bad and it could be felt in the steering wheel and when braking
mine made it to 209k and needed a press to come off.
all you have to do is the take the brake off and spin. if it feels bad or makes noise it’s done. mine was really bad and it could be felt in the steering wheel and when braking
#26
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John in Tennessee (05-14-2022)
#27
#28
#30
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Yes I have hubcentric rings from Verde. Came with the wheels. BUT again this was the same exact thing with stock rims and Pirellis.
#32
#33
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May not help the OP if your brakes are still dragging and pulsating (and mine is an X308) but I was chasing a drivers side thunk/rattle at low speed on rough surfaces, and wheel vibration at 50-60 mph. Replaced drop links, anti-roll bar and suspension bushes, upper and lower damper mounts. Roadforce wheel balance. Bottom ball was shot, replaced and this did improve wheel balance slightly.
The fix:
Removed the top damper mount and isolated the damper rod from the body and took it for a drive. Silence, no rattle but did not check wheel balance as just on a minor back road. Installed a replacement CAT’s damper and now no noise or wheel vibration. (Thanks Jagalicious).
With the old damper pinched in a vice at the eye I could jerk the rod in and ot about 1/2” which made a thud. Guess the valving was shot.
The fix:
Removed the top damper mount and isolated the damper rod from the body and took it for a drive. Silence, no rattle but did not check wheel balance as just on a minor back road. Installed a replacement CAT’s damper and now no noise or wheel vibration. (Thanks Jagalicious).
With the old damper pinched in a vice at the eye I could jerk the rod in and ot about 1/2” which made a thud. Guess the valving was shot.
Last edited by XJR-100; 07-15-2021 at 05:13 PM.
#34
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May not help the OP if your brakes are still dragging and pulsating (and mine is an X308) but I was chasing a drivers side thunk/rattle at low speed on rough surfaces, and wheel vibration at 50-60 mph. Replaced drop links, anti-roll bar and suspension bushes, upper and lower damper mounts. Roadforce wheel balance. Bottom ball was shot, replaced and this did improve wheel balance slightly.
The fix:
Removed the top damper mount and isolated the damper rod from the body and took it for a drive. Silence, no rattle but did not check wheel balance as just on a minor back road. Installed a replacement CAT’s damper and now no noise or wheel vibration. (Thanks Jagalicious).
With the old damper pinched in a vice at the eye I could jerk the rod in and ot about 1/2” which made a thud. Guess the valving was shot.
The fix:
Removed the top damper mount and isolated the damper rod from the body and took it for a drive. Silence, no rattle but did not check wheel balance as just on a minor back road. Installed a replacement CAT’s damper and now no noise or wheel vibration. (Thanks Jagalicious).
With the old damper pinched in a vice at the eye I could jerk the rod in and ot about 1/2” which made a thud. Guess the valving was shot.
#35
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I called Brembo and R1 Concepts (whom I got the brakes from) they both said the pads have to be seated and there will be "some" drag that will get better as you drive. Well it is SLIGHTLY better but imho still draggy lol.
#37
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If the calipers were fully retracted and then pumped to the rotor with the pedal there should be no drag. The seal acts as a self adjusting return spring to keep the pads just clear of the rotor. Otherwise they would continuously drag, wear and reduce fuel economy. New pads will seat and feel better as the surfaces mate during braking - not during driving. Old drum brakes would often be put on with a small drag to wear off the non conforming surfaces but even with them it was optional since they were self adjusting.
#38
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If the calipers were fully retracted and then pumped to the rotor with the pedal there should be no drag. The seal acts as a self adjusting return spring to keep the pads just clear of the rotor. Otherwise they would continuously drag, wear and reduce fuel economy. New pads will seat and feel better as the surfaces mate during braking - not during driving. Old drum brakes would often be put on with a small drag to wear off the non conforming surfaces but even with them it was optional since they were self adjusting.
I still have drag mostly from right front. It squeals upon slow stops too. I guess its caliper time too. Who has a working set on here cheap?
#39
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Hey Badass -
I feel your pain
BUT
My 05 Super V8 needed everything related to what you are doing now once the time came -
ALL suspension parts front and back, rotors, brake pads, calipers....
Once that was all sorted it ran and runs perfectly.
The real expense in this were the calipers. Hard to find working ones used. I ended up buying new, about 750 EACH, and got ripped off on a set from "a running car" on ebay. They were in nice condition but need to be refry.
Yeah, mine car ran too, but with the right front caliper stuck.
You sound much more experienced than that.
Mike
I feel your pain
BUT
My 05 Super V8 needed everything related to what you are doing now once the time came -
ALL suspension parts front and back, rotors, brake pads, calipers....
Once that was all sorted it ran and runs perfectly.
The real expense in this were the calipers. Hard to find working ones used. I ended up buying new, about 750 EACH, and got ripped off on a set from "a running car" on ebay. They were in nice condition but need to be refry.
Yeah, mine car ran too, but with the right front caliper stuck.
You sound much more experienced than that.
Mike
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OnebadassXJR (07-20-2021)