X350/358: working on pre-purchase plan
#1
X350/358: working on pre-purchase plan
I’ve made progress compiling a Reality Checklist to use while saving for and looking for an X350/358 VDP. I wanted to post what I have for comments.
I am not a DIY car person, so to start with, I’ll be looking for a car at the top of the fair price range. Based on what I’ve seen, that means somewhere between $13 and $17K USD, and between 40K and 80K miles. A full service history will be non-negotiable for one of these, and I’ll need to see that anything generally agreed by experienced owners to be required based on age or mileage has been done or is not grossly overdue. It’s cheaper to buy a car that’s already proper than buy one in need of major repairs if you’re not DIY (same with houses).
I think I’m going to shy away from 100K cars, just to avoid having that list to knock out right away. I won’t put more than 2-3K a year on the car, so if I go 50-70K, I’ll be looking at age-related stuff more than mileage, for the most part. Hoping to avoid replacing air suspension in the near-term.
Preliminary assumptions: No corrosion, no body dings or significant scratches, no water intrusion anywhere. Obviously garaged for lifetime and cosmetically close to perfect; leather properly cared-for, car kept clean and waxed. Any car will have PPI by experienced Jag tech. I believe that, barring poor maintenance and abuse, lemons come out of the factory that way, and their service histories will reflect that, so I do not expect a car that isn’t already trailing a list of issues to suddenly develop one.
So here is my list of what I should be prepared to spend on what, and you’ll notice some questions in here that I still need help with. I’m going for more of a worst-case-scenario here, so that I will have adequate cash on hand to fix anything that’s likely to come up in the short term. (I’ll 100% finance the purchase; I’d rather have the cash on hand with interest rates still so low on that little money.)
Headliner: even if good at purchase, could sag from age any time so: $800
Propshaft rubber couplings: replace for age if still original: $ at an independent import shop?
Tires: $1,000
Rear lower control arms: $335.50 USD each at SNG Barratt; I’ve read an hour labor for the job; is that per side or total? So $800 would cover this?
Front lower control arms: It would seem these last longer, but should I plan on replacing right away?
Throttle position sensor: replace if >50K miles? Throttle body too? RepairPal says @$330 for this job; does that sound right?
Thermostat and housing: X350 “what to look out for” says “consider preventive swap-out” of thermostat after 8 years, and I’ve read that the housing can come apart internally; this would leave you stranded, so I’d be inclined to head that off. Opinions? Cost?
Based on what I know now, I’m inclined to think that buying this car with, say, $5,000 cash-on-hand for work is a viable plan. But I’m still learning, so I’d appreciate any help honing this. Thanks in advance.
I am not a DIY car person, so to start with, I’ll be looking for a car at the top of the fair price range. Based on what I’ve seen, that means somewhere between $13 and $17K USD, and between 40K and 80K miles. A full service history will be non-negotiable for one of these, and I’ll need to see that anything generally agreed by experienced owners to be required based on age or mileage has been done or is not grossly overdue. It’s cheaper to buy a car that’s already proper than buy one in need of major repairs if you’re not DIY (same with houses).
I think I’m going to shy away from 100K cars, just to avoid having that list to knock out right away. I won’t put more than 2-3K a year on the car, so if I go 50-70K, I’ll be looking at age-related stuff more than mileage, for the most part. Hoping to avoid replacing air suspension in the near-term.
Preliminary assumptions: No corrosion, no body dings or significant scratches, no water intrusion anywhere. Obviously garaged for lifetime and cosmetically close to perfect; leather properly cared-for, car kept clean and waxed. Any car will have PPI by experienced Jag tech. I believe that, barring poor maintenance and abuse, lemons come out of the factory that way, and their service histories will reflect that, so I do not expect a car that isn’t already trailing a list of issues to suddenly develop one.
So here is my list of what I should be prepared to spend on what, and you’ll notice some questions in here that I still need help with. I’m going for more of a worst-case-scenario here, so that I will have adequate cash on hand to fix anything that’s likely to come up in the short term. (I’ll 100% finance the purchase; I’d rather have the cash on hand with interest rates still so low on that little money.)
Headliner: even if good at purchase, could sag from age any time so: $800
Propshaft rubber couplings: replace for age if still original: $ at an independent import shop?
Tires: $1,000
Rear lower control arms: $335.50 USD each at SNG Barratt; I’ve read an hour labor for the job; is that per side or total? So $800 would cover this?
Front lower control arms: It would seem these last longer, but should I plan on replacing right away?
Throttle position sensor: replace if >50K miles? Throttle body too? RepairPal says @$330 for this job; does that sound right?
Thermostat and housing: X350 “what to look out for” says “consider preventive swap-out” of thermostat after 8 years, and I’ve read that the housing can come apart internally; this would leave you stranded, so I’d be inclined to head that off. Opinions? Cost?
Based on what I know now, I’m inclined to think that buying this car with, say, $5,000 cash-on-hand for work is a viable plan. But I’m still learning, so I’d appreciate any help honing this. Thanks in advance.
#2
This forum is largely DIYers and you are reading a frightening list of everything that can possibly go wrong. I'm not DIY on this car either.
My car in the first year has had nothing go wrong, but then it's 2008 50k miles equivalent. As well as Touch Wood.
Lowest mileage (for wear) and Latest (for things like hoses aging) that you can afford is your best bet. Probably better spending the estimated $4000 (excl tires) on a "newer/better" car?
I did buy a 3 year mechanical warranty. Which has been a waste of money so far because I haven't used it !!! I've no idea what this costs in the US.
My car in the first year has had nothing go wrong, but then it's 2008 50k miles equivalent. As well as Touch Wood.
Lowest mileage (for wear) and Latest (for things like hoses aging) that you can afford is your best bet. Probably better spending the estimated $4000 (excl tires) on a "newer/better" car?
I did buy a 3 year mechanical warranty. Which has been a waste of money so far because I haven't used it !!! I've no idea what this costs in the US.
#3
The biggest Achilles Heal of these car is the suspension design, which places far too much stress on the bushes. You have forgotten about the lower strut bushes. The car has four air spring struts that combine air spring and damper in a single unit. All four have a lower bush, the rear at the bottom of the unit, and the front pressed into the straight arm part of the lower wishbone. The whole weight of the car is taken by these four bushes so they last very little time at all. Having said that they are not expensive, but the fronts have a longer labour time to replace.
I should also say that the front lower wishbone trunnion bushes are available separately and can be replaced fairly easily. The commonest one to fail is on the front "banana" arm. Replacing rear lower wishbone bushes is not so straightforward because unlike the front arms that are aluminium forgings, these arms are castings and it is possible to crack the casting when pressing in/out.
Whilst bushes can be replaced, unless you're doing it all DIY, the additional labour involved in pressing in/out bushes must be added in when deciding whether to just swap out the while component. These can seem expensive, but when labour charges are added in, there may not be much difference.
I should also say that the front lower wishbone trunnion bushes are available separately and can be replaced fairly easily. The commonest one to fail is on the front "banana" arm. Replacing rear lower wishbone bushes is not so straightforward because unlike the front arms that are aluminium forgings, these arms are castings and it is possible to crack the casting when pressing in/out.
Whilst bushes can be replaced, unless you're doing it all DIY, the additional labour involved in pressing in/out bushes must be added in when deciding whether to just swap out the while component. These can seem expensive, but when labour charges are added in, there may not be much difference.
#4
HI Chris--thanks for this--I honestly don't think I can spend 4-5K more on a nice VDP of this vintage--not that I've seen, anyway. They seem to top out around 17 or so. Which is great as my max is 19. I appreciate this perspective; I've spent time on forums for my other cars so I've learned not to get scared to death by them! But they are so helpful to learn about a car and the more feedback one gets the more valuable they are.
#5
#6
I would plan for struts before prop shaft bushing. Older models (XJ-40) with the jurid bushing were common, but I have not seen X350's with driveshaft issues. Change the thermostat and housing right away as preventative measure. You also will start with fresh antifreeze as a benefit. Keep in mind, this car will not be a (gas and go) like your current Japanese cars. But there is no comparison when you drive an X350 in great shape.
#7
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#8
Best used car value out there.
People remember their terrible reputation for breaking down all to often!!!!!!!!!
Lucas the Prince of Darkness, was why the English drank warm beer.
He made the fridge, and its broken.
One of the first things to do on a Brit bike, or car.
Replace all the electronics with American stuff.
People remember their terrible reputation for breaking down all to often!!!!!!!!!
Lucas the Prince of Darkness, was why the English drank warm beer.
He made the fridge, and its broken.
One of the first things to do on a Brit bike, or car.
Replace all the electronics with American stuff.
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