Hi,


I have a 2003 X350 3L V6 and when I tried to open the bonnet this morning the release cable appears to have broken. The release lever pulls back OK, but without resistance and the bonnet catch does not open. On inspection, the cable nipple is still located correctly in the pull handle. I therefore suspect that the cable has snapped.


I had the bonnet open four days ago and it opened normally without any signs of tightness, or resistance.


Does anyone know how to open the bonnet when the release cable has broken.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

 

Here is an update for anyone following this thread.


This is a UK RHD X350, so all references are to a RHD model. LHD models may be different.




I managed to open the bonnet as follows:-

1. The car has the standard chrome effect front grille with horizontal louvres. The two louvre panels are held in place by two deep locating lugs on the bottom edge and five small locating lugs along the top edge. By using two thin bladed screwdrivers, or similar, it is quite easy to remove the two panels. Close inspection of the louvre panels will show there is a small gap around their perimeter, where a thin blade can be inserted. I inserted one screwdriver in the gap immediately above one of the two vertical bars; and another screwdriver in the gap immediately above the other vertical bar. Applying gentle downward pressure to both screwdrivers resulted in the louvre panel popping out at the top; after that the louvre panels can be lifted out.
2. With both louvre panels removed from the grille I could see the two bonnet catch locking mechanisms. The one on the drivers side was uncovered and it was easy to apply finger pressure on the operating lever (where the cable release nipple locates) and release the driver side catch.
3. The passenger side catch locking mechanism was covered by a metal enclosure (maybe something to do with security); and there was an electrical device (turned out to be a switch) plugged into the bottom of the catch locking mechanism. Both the metal enclosure and the switch prevented me from getting access to the catch operating lever, as I had done on the driver side.
4. On the left side (viewed from front) of the metal enclosure there is a dome headed T30 Torx fixing, which can be easily removed. The metal enclosure is fixed by more than one fixing, but once this one is removed, the metal enclosure can be prised aside to get access to the passenger side catch locking mechanism.
5. At this stage, it may be possible to remove the switch fitted to the bottom of the catch locking mechanism. However, I could not remove it easily and did not want to damage it. Instead, I removed the two 10mm hex headed fixings that secure the catch locking mechanism to the chassis. Once removed, I was able to easily detach the electrical switch from it and operate the little locking lever, which released the passenger side catch and enabled the bonnet to be opened fully.

On inspection, it appears that the bonnet release cable goes from the bonnet release handle in the cabin to the passenger side bonnet catch locking mechanism; and then to the driver side bonnet catch locking mechanism. In my case the bonnet release cable appears to have snapped somewhere between the bonnet release handle and the passenger side catch locking mechanism.


There is another post on this forum describing how to replace the cable, so I'll get a new cable and have a go.

 

Can you pull the cable through the rubber sleep? If you can then it snapped if not, then the grommet probably came off the bracket like mine did. Check where grommet sits on the car side, you'll see a bracket with a half circular opening pointing down. The design idea is you're pulling the cable in the horizontal direction and therefore an open bracket will hold the grommet. In reality, you're pulling the cable in the downward direction a little when you pull the handle.


Push the grommet back in the bracket and hold it up while you pull the handle. If the hood releases, pull the grommet out, put some epoxy in the groove that sits in the bracket and push it back in place. No problems so far.

 

Thanks for the information Khello - it's much appreciated.


I've just had a quick look and I cannot pull the inner cable through its outer sheath. When I pulled on it, about 6 inches of both the inner cable and outer sheath came into the cabin.


I'm thinking that I may have the same as you described, because there was no sign of any tightness, or resistance, prior to me not being able to open the bonnet a few days ago.


I am going away for a week, but will properly investigate it on my return.


Did you have to remove any of the internal cabin trim to get at the bracket where the grommet fits?


Thanks again

 

No worries, glad I could help.


To pop the grommet back in and get moving (you don't need to use epoxy if you remember to push the grommet against the bracket when pulling the lever), you don't need to remove any trim.


If you're going to bond the grommet to the bracket, I recommend removing the carpeted piece below the steering column/above the pedals. It's secured with plastic trim fasteners. Better access to bracket equals less potential of making a mess with epoxy. Masking the surrounding areas including the floor with plastic bags wouldn't hurt.

 

Thanks again Khello,


I'll have a proper look when I get back from my trip next week.


BTW My X350 is a UK RHD, so the cabin bonnet release lever is on the opposite side from the steering column and pedals.

 

You're welcome.


Should just be a mirror image. You'll find the bracket.

 

Rusting-up of these cables is quite common, as they are exposed to salt-laden spray. Mine seized in 2010, the year I bought the car. Attempts to lube the cable did not work, the outer protective plastic had come off, so a new cable thoroughly pre-lubed before fitting, and a slight re-route in the engine bay, cured all troubles, and cable is still OK, and car is on 105k miles; cable fixed around 35k miles. Lubing is key, and I suspect none was done at build time.


So don't bother with the old cable, just fit a new one, they're not expensive.


PS: lube the latches as well !

 

I had the same problem today, attempted to open the hood to check the oil and pop-the grommet slipped of the mount.

I took a different route, I removed the Valance Panel under the bumper, removed the lower radiator shield, and wiggled my arm up in front of the radiator and pulled on the cables...both latches opened. The hood is still unlatched as I am waiting on a new cable.

I also received a set of Arnott Coil-overs to replace the air struts.

 

Dunedin,

When you get to fixing the cable can you post pictures of the problem area and fix. Thanks.

 

I am expecting to receive the new cable by the 23rd, I'll take a few photos before, during, and after the replacement.

 

Thanks to everyone for the replies to this post. It's much appreciated.


I had a good examination of my bonnet release cable problem yesterday and can update as follows:-

1. I put the bonnet release cable stop grommet back into the bracket, as Khello suggested and I was able to operate the two bonnet locking latches. This confirms that the cable has not snapped.
2. I closed and opened the bonnet catches several times and noticed that there was some resistance to pulling the cable. After a few times the cable release stop grommet jumped back out of the bracket. I re-inserted it and operated the bonnet release lever; and noticed that the bracket was distorting with the pressure put on it by the pulling of the cable. After a few more pulls on the release lever the cable release stop grommet jumped out again.
3. The bonnet release cable is mostly hidden by items within the engine bay, but I removed the passenger-side top radiator bracket and could see a small break in the outer sheath just before the cable fixing bracket (Point A in Photo 1). No doubt the elements have entered here and done no good.
4. The cable fixing bracket (Point A in Photo 1) results in two particularly sharp bends for the route of the cable, which cannot be ideal.

Taking account of the above and all the suggestions made by others, I have decided to install a new cable and try a better method of fixing the cable at Point A in Photo1. The Jaguar part number for the cable is C2C34776 and costs about £33 (including UK VAT) from Jaguar.


It will be a couple of weeks before I can do this, but I will report back with some photos of any tricky bits.


Thanks again to all who replied.

 

Basically, once these cables have rusted-up, it is best to replace, but to make sure it is thoroughly lubed before installation. This was Jaguar's big boo-boo on the assembly line. I replaced mine in 2011, (very well lubed), and it's still there working perfectly ! My mechanic did a bit of re-routing to ensure the bends on the cable aren't too sharp.

 

I have to wait a little longer, they did not have the cable in stock.

 

Cool, I'll check my cable for rust. If recommend some sort of silicon grease like the one used on bicycle derailleur and brake cables. I've used that on my mountain bike with no problems from mud and water intrusion.

 

Got my cable yesterday afternoon, too late to attempt replacement. I looked at the cable and engine compartment today and did a ":i con_rant:".
I will wait till the weekend (stormy weather currently).

 

I have now successfully replaced the bonnet release cable on my Jaguar V6 3L X350 RHD. I took some photos during the replacement process and have recorded below the actions taken to replace it for the benefit of anyone else contemplating the task.

NOTE: This process is for replacing the bonnet release cable on a RHD model. Replacement of the cable on a LHD model is similar, but the brake servo on a LHD model is where the cabin pollen filter box is on the RHD model. If you have a LHD model look at Zazzy's very helpful instructions here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-cable-153012/

Tools & Parts Required For The Task Described
New Bonnet Release Cable (Jaguar Part No C2C34776 - Photo 1)
Socket Set with 8mm, 10mm & 13mm sockets
Torx 30 bit
Various Screwdrivers
Electric Drill & Drill Bits
Sharp Cold Chisel (about 15mm)
Hammer
Stanley Knife, or similar
Fish Wire (I used the copper conductor of 2.5 sq mm twin & earth cable)
Grease to lubricate new cable

Replacement Procedure

1. Open the bonnet and remove the Radiator Cover Trim (Photo2), which is held in place by six fixings.
2. Photo 3 shows the Radiator Cover Trim removed and the main engine bay components referred to in this procedure.
3. Although not strictly necessary, I removed the front chrome grille to give much better access to the two bonnet release catches
4. Remove the Top Radiator Bracket (LH) (Photo 4), which is fixed with three bolts.
5. Photo 5 shows the Top Radiator Bracket (LH) removed and the Bonnet Release Catch Cover prised away. NOTE: It is not necessary to prise the cover away in this manner - I did it to gain access to the release catch when my bonnet was stuck in the closed position.
6. Photo 6 shows one of the two riveted clips (Point A in Photo) that secures the bonnet release cable in the engine bay. This rivet also acts as one of three fixings for the Bonnet Release Catch Cover. This riveted clip puts a sharp bend on the Bonnet Release Cable and is best removed. Access to the rivet head is severely restricted by the radiator, but you can get to the back of the rivet from the top. I used a sharp 15mm cold chisel and hammer to cut off the back of the rivet, which then allowed the clip and Bonnet Release Catch Cover to be removed. I decided at this point not to replace the Bonnet Release Cover when re-assembling.
7. Prior to removing the two bonnet release catches, it is worth marking their exact location to assist re-alignment when re-assembling. In my case the re-alignment was easy, because there was no paint where the catch had to be located. Remove the left Bonnet Release Catch by removing the two fixing bolts, but be careful not to drop the bolts, or the part that the fixing bolts screw into. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the left Bonnet Release Catch.
8. Remove the right Bonnet Release Catch by removing the two fixing bolts and remove the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the right Bonnet Release Catch. Photo 7 shows the right Bonnet Release Catch removed from its fixings and with the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch removed; but with the cable still connected.
9. Completely Remove the Air Filter Box (Location shown in Photo 3)
10. Loosen the Power Steering Reservoir Fixing Bolt (Photo 8) and carefully move the reservoir a little to give clear visibility of the area beneath it. This is where the second of the two riveted clips (Photo 9) securing the Bonnet Release Cable in the engine bay is located.
11. Using an electric drill and suitable drill bit, drill the head of the rivet (Photo 9) securing the clip, which is the last cable fixing in the engine bay.
12. The cable now goes under the Cabin Pollen Filter box and through the bulkhead, but don't be tempted to pull the Bonnet Release Cable outat this stage.
13. It is now necessary to completely remove the Cabin Pollen Filter box, as described in steps 14 - 17 below.
14. Mark, or measure, the wiper arm locations to enable correct replacement. Remove the two wiper arms by popping of the two wiper armfixings covers (Photo 2); removing the two fixing nuts; then carefully prise off the wiper arms.
15. Remove the plastic panel fixings securing the Cowl Vent (Photo 3) to enable the Cowl to be hinged back towards the windscreen - the Cowl does not need to be fully removed. Photo 10 shows the Cowl hinged up.
16. Remove the Cabin Pollen Filter. Photo 10 shows the Cabin Pollen Filter removed.
17. The Cabin Pollen Filter box comprises two parts and both must be completely removed. At first this appears near impossible, but if done in the correct order, and with a bit of fiddling, it works. Firstly, remove the four fixing nuts (Shown in Photo 11) securing the back part of the Cabin Pollen Filter box - Be careful not to drop the nuts. Lift the back box part out by turning it appropriately as you do so. Now remove the front part of the Cabin Pollen Filter box by removing the fixing bolt (Shown in Photo 12) securing it. Lift the front box part out in a similar manner to the back box part.
18. With the Cabin Pollen Filter box now fully removed, it can be seen where the Bonnet Release Cable passes through the bulkhead into the cabin (Shown in Photo 13).
19. Move the front passenger seat as far back as it will go.
20. Remove the front passenger door sill trim (Photo 14) by pulling it up - don't be afraid to apply a little force - It is quite robust.
21. Remove the trim around the bonnet release handle (Photo14) by pulling it up at the back to clear the locating recess; and then straight back.
22. Disengage the Bonnet Release Cable from the Bonnet Release Handle.
23. Securely attach a suitable fish wire to the old Bonnet Release Catch (See Photo 15).
24. Cut off the Star-Profile shroud (Shown in Photo 15) around the Bonnet Release Cable outer with a Stanley knife, or similar. This will make it much easier to pull the old cable through the bulkhead.
25. Carefully pull the old Bonnet Release Cable into the engine bay until you can get enough of the Fish Wire to work with. If you have cut off the Star-Profile Shroud as recommended in 24 above, the cable should pull through easily. If it feels tight, it may be snagged on something, so check before pulling too hard.
26. At this stage, I applied some grease to the new cable where the inner cable entered the various parts of the outer sheath.
27. Disengage the old Bonnet Release cable from the Fish Wire and securely attach the cabin end of the new cable to the Fish Wire.
28. Carefully pull the Fish Wire back into the cabin until you have enough of the new cable to locate in the Bonnet Release Handle. The cable should pull quite easily. If it feels tight, it may be snagged on something, so check before pulling too hard.
29 Apply a little Washing up liquid, or similar, to the cone-shaped grommet to help it fit properly into the hole in the bulkhead.
30. Route the new Bonnet Release Cable along the same route as the old cable, but don't bother with the two riveted clips that were previously removed. I ensured that there were no tight bends in the route of the cable and used a few nylon zip ties to secure the new cable along its route.
31. Engage the new cable with the two Bonnet Release catches and fit the Bonnet Open Sensor Switch back into the right Bonnet Release Catch.
32. Fix the two Bonnet Release Catches back into position, re-aligning them with either the original paint marks, or with the marks made in Step 7 above.
33. Attach the cabin end of the Bonnet Release Cable to the Bonnet Release Handle and its cable stay.
34. Leave the bonnet open, in case there are any issues, and close the two Bonnet Release Catches manually. Test that the operation of the Bonnet Release Handle opens the two catches freely and without issue. It is worth trying this a few times to ensure all is OK before closing the bonnet and trying it a few times more.
35. If all is well with testing the bonnet opening, put everything back in place that has been removed.
36. Once everything is back in place, test the bonnet again and make sure it opens and closes correctly. You may have to make some minor adjustments to the position of either, or both, of the Bonnet Release Catches if they have not been put back in the exact previous positions.

It took me 4 hours to do all of the above, but about half of that was spent working out what to do and how to remove the Cabin Pollen Filter box. Having now successfully completed the task, I estimate that it would take about two hours for a competent DIY mechanic to do the job.

Finally, I would like to thank all those who repliedto my original post; and Zazzy for his very helpful post, which gave me the inspiration to tackle the job in the first place.

 

Congratulations on the longest post ever!

I will read it when I have a free weekend!

Seriously though great information and many thanks.

 

Lol

 

Having read through dunedin's post it really does amplify how pi** poor JTIS is

especially the lack of photos and poor diagrams.

This post should be a "sticky" and I am not sure how to do that maybe it needs

a moderator to do that?