X350 front bumper removal issues
#1
X350 front bumper removal issues
Hi all,
Can anyone help with any special techniques to remove the front bumper from a Jag XJR, 2003 (X350)?
I'm of the understanding that the procedure is,
1 - remove grille
2 - remove screws connecting bumper via wheel arch covers
3 - push down and then release all electrical connections, etc.
Grille removal was easy. However both screws holding the wheel arch cover to the bumper are not coming off. One side turns perpetually, never coming out. The other side is corroded and only gives a small turn, which results in a lot of crunching noises from within.
Naturally I next planned to cut them off, though failed using a dremal to make any progress (drill head has snapped so closes that option). Very awkward for hacksaw piece access, though I'll continue to try of course.
Not been able to locate any other threads discussing any issues with x350 bumper removal so hope you guys may be able to shed some light.
btw, reason for bumper removal, air suspension has collapsed at back so attempting to replace the piston ring of the air pump for the suspension which is located front LHS behind the front bumper.
Cheers in advance guys.
Jim
Can anyone help with any special techniques to remove the front bumper from a Jag XJR, 2003 (X350)?
I'm of the understanding that the procedure is,
1 - remove grille
2 - remove screws connecting bumper via wheel arch covers
3 - push down and then release all electrical connections, etc.
Grille removal was easy. However both screws holding the wheel arch cover to the bumper are not coming off. One side turns perpetually, never coming out. The other side is corroded and only gives a small turn, which results in a lot of crunching noises from within.
Naturally I next planned to cut them off, though failed using a dremal to make any progress (drill head has snapped so closes that option). Very awkward for hacksaw piece access, though I'll continue to try of course.
Not been able to locate any other threads discussing any issues with x350 bumper removal so hope you guys may be able to shed some light.
btw, reason for bumper removal, air suspension has collapsed at back so attempting to replace the piston ring of the air pump for the suspension which is located front LHS behind the front bumper.
Cheers in advance guys.
Jim
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by jackra_1:
Jaroslav Záruba (10-31-2023),
jeely (12-22-2018)
#4
Thanks John,
Managed to get one side hacksawed off.... eventually. (noticed your reply too late). Yeah, you're absolutely correct, not connected with bumper at all. Trying to get the other side off now, ignoring the screw but it's not budging.
Can't believe the manual PDF I found for x350 starts by saying take these off! Yeah, glad I only wasted half my time on it so far, I'll ignore the other side.
Bolts on bottom, where they connect to the sump guard, some of the bolts have the same corroded issues. Just wish it weren't pouring with rain while I'm doing this today.
Cheers for the reply!
Jim
Managed to get one side hacksawed off.... eventually. (noticed your reply too late). Yeah, you're absolutely correct, not connected with bumper at all. Trying to get the other side off now, ignoring the screw but it's not budging.
Can't believe the manual PDF I found for x350 starts by saying take these off! Yeah, glad I only wasted half my time on it so far, I'll ignore the other side.
Bolts on bottom, where they connect to the sump guard, some of the bolts have the same corroded issues. Just wish it weren't pouring with rain while I'm doing this today.
Cheers for the reply!
Jim
The following users liked this post:
Jaroslav Záruba (10-31-2023)
#5
Beginning to think I may need to hacksaw the other side off too. Although the screw isn’t connected to the bumper, it appears I need to allow the inner wheel arch guard to move away which should allow the bumper to
slide forward. Trying to pull bumper forward the lip of the bumper is hampered by the wheel arch lining which is fixed in place.
Dark now, taking this one up again tomorrow.
Cheers
slide forward. Trying to pull bumper forward the lip of the bumper is hampered by the wheel arch lining which is fixed in place.
Dark now, taking this one up again tomorrow.
Cheers
#6
Have you pulled the sides out? Where the bumper connects with the upper body above the side markers it pulls outwards not forward. If all other connections at the top and the grill and the lower undershield of the radiator are disconnected the bumper will just fall to the ground unless supported.
The following users liked this post:
jeely (12-22-2018)
#7
If you look closely at my first pic immediately below the visible main bodywork where the bumper meets the body you will see plastic raised "clips". On the bumper there are corresponding clips which are in effect female counterparts that push in over the raised male clips to hold firm.
It takes quite a bit of force to pull these clips apart by pulling outward on the end of the bumper wrap around but they will pull apart.
It takes quite a bit of force to pull these clips apart by pulling outward on the end of the bumper wrap around but they will pull apart.
The following users liked this post:
jeely (12-22-2018)
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#10
#11
It might be wise to change the desiccant beads that are in a chamber on the pump while you have it apart. It's the only time you'll get a chance to do it and they're inexpensive. Whether that helps with its longevity is hard to say, but a pump I did the job on was still going strong when its life was cut short by a 75mph collision. In any event I hope you made it through or have gotten some progress since we last heard. Let us know how you made out!
The following users liked this post:
jeely (12-27-2018)
#12
Thanks Blairware, and thanks for the advice about replacing the desiccant beads. Yeah since taking it off, the putting it back together is definitely going to be a pain.
I've got pump off car thankfully. Obstacle after obstacle with this one. Ceased lug nut hampered way for a couple of days, though got that off now. down to final last bolt on the pump itself to access the piston ring. Will need to hacksaw one of them off as the soft bolt is pearing away.
Thanks again for the help everyone!
Jim
I've got pump off car thankfully. Obstacle after obstacle with this one. Ceased lug nut hampered way for a couple of days, though got that off now. down to final last bolt on the pump itself to access the piston ring. Will need to hacksaw one of them off as the soft bolt is pearing away.
Thanks again for the help everyone!
Jim
#13
On the topic of those clips...
They all eventually rust, break and spin. They really should be replaced with every 'use' but few bother. You can buy stainless steel replacements for not a lot of money from popular online marketplaces and whenever you access one for maintenance replace it with the stainless version to save the swearing in 12 months time when you need to access it again.
When I encounter a spinning clip the quickest and cleanest way to remove them is to melt the plastic and pull the bolt/screw head through it. I use a die grinder to heat up the screw head until it glows red then quickly pull it through the plastic, so a die grinder head in a Dremel would do exactly the same job. It leaves a clean round hole which is covered by the replacement stainless washer + screw. Once the plastic part has been removed you have enough access to cleanly cut the bolt out and remove the remains of the clip.
They all eventually rust, break and spin. They really should be replaced with every 'use' but few bother. You can buy stainless steel replacements for not a lot of money from popular online marketplaces and whenever you access one for maintenance replace it with the stainless version to save the swearing in 12 months time when you need to access it again.
When I encounter a spinning clip the quickest and cleanest way to remove them is to melt the plastic and pull the bolt/screw head through it. I use a die grinder to heat up the screw head until it glows red then quickly pull it through the plastic, so a die grinder head in a Dremel would do exactly the same job. It leaves a clean round hole which is covered by the replacement stainless washer + screw. Once the plastic part has been removed you have enough access to cleanly cut the bolt out and remove the remains of the clip.
#14
...The biggest issue I had was getting the sucker back on holding it up with one hand and trying to assemble the springs washers Etc. That pump gets a bit heavy after a while holding it up while trying to start the nuts on the posts with all the appropriate Springs and washers in place. Anyone who has done it will know exactly what I mean....
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