X350 rear brakes, 2004
#1
#2
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I use the retractor tool but have managed in the past with a G clamp and pipe pliers. Just apply some pressure with the clamp and at the same time grip the exposed end of the piston showing through the dust seal with the pliers or mole grips and screw it in (clockwise) . Maybe use some tape or a rag to prevent damage to the piston
Sorry can't help with Ebrake servicing. Touch wood I've never had to do it..
Good luck
Sorry can't help with Ebrake servicing. Touch wood I've never had to do it..
Good luck
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romroc (03-28-2021)
#3
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There are no specific service instructions from Jaguar on the eBrake, just make sure the cables aren't rusted up and that the levers move nicely. When you've installed new pads, you need to reset the eBrake, which is easy, I believe, but I don't have the instructions; somebody on here no doubt has them. For me, I'd always use the correct tool to retract the pistons.
#4
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Hey Rom:
EBrake Ratchet: Yes - you can C Clamp and "channellock" the piston back in, just as PD says - with little or no damage - if you tape it. I use long strip of heavy duct tape after cleaning exposed piston.
Much better yet: Pull the calipers and replace the seals and boots. Retracting pistons is simple in a bench vise with soft jaws.
- Renewing caliper seals is not because they might leak (they rarely do). Its about refurbishing the ability to retract pistons
- The "square" seal cross section is skewed upon braking, and retracts a few thousandths when released, freeing the pads to ride on a capillary of air atop the rotor
- Caliper seals age/wear, and are damaged while pushing a crusty piston past them when installing new pads
- Common for new pads/rotors to get glazed/warped by a dragging caliper; this due to knackered seals and corrosion (esp. corroded ebrake ratchet)
- Seal kits are dead cheap. Use OE kits (eg, ATE) and a can of brake cleaner. Toothbrush + wear disposable gloves
- Great time to clean/lube the ebrake components; check cables
- Ditto flush the brake fluid. Suggest a quart of quality DOT4 through the system every couple of years. Bleeds easily with suction bleeder, though slow (10 minutes) to completely flush
Hope this helps...
EBrake Ratchet: Yes - you can C Clamp and "channellock" the piston back in, just as PD says - with little or no damage - if you tape it. I use long strip of heavy duct tape after cleaning exposed piston.
Much better yet: Pull the calipers and replace the seals and boots. Retracting pistons is simple in a bench vise with soft jaws.
- Renewing caliper seals is not because they might leak (they rarely do). Its about refurbishing the ability to retract pistons
- The "square" seal cross section is skewed upon braking, and retracts a few thousandths when released, freeing the pads to ride on a capillary of air atop the rotor
- Caliper seals age/wear, and are damaged while pushing a crusty piston past them when installing new pads
- Common for new pads/rotors to get glazed/warped by a dragging caliper; this due to knackered seals and corrosion (esp. corroded ebrake ratchet)
- Seal kits are dead cheap. Use OE kits (eg, ATE) and a can of brake cleaner. Toothbrush + wear disposable gloves
- Great time to clean/lube the ebrake components; check cables
- Ditto flush the brake fluid. Suggest a quart of quality DOT4 through the system every couple of years. Bleeds easily with suction bleeder, though slow (10 minutes) to completely flush
Hope this helps...
The following users liked this post:
romroc (03-28-2021)
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I use the retractor tool but have managed in the past with a G clamp and pipe pliers. Just apply some pressure with the clamp and at the same time grip the exposed end of the piston showing through the dust seal with the pliers or mole grips and screw it in (clockwise) . Maybe use some tape or a rag to prevent damage to the piston
Sorry can't help with Ebrake servicing. Touch wood I've never had to do it..
Good luck
Sorry can't help with Ebrake servicing. Touch wood I've never had to do it..
Good luck
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