thank you for everything, I am posting a new thread regarding Arnott air struts AS-2890, hoping to get feed back from specifically the menbers who had used them, thank you!

 

To Jaroslav Zaruba
thank you, dropping the car till the tires touch the ground makes a lot uh sence, I wich I have know I couldve done it by somewhat lowering the jack stands one side at a time few notches, and even though the jack stands are not gonna give me the right height as a car lift, the impact on the dampers wouldnve been as hard.
As far as the leaving the car untouched for 3 days , I had checked on it the 2nd day and it had dropped on both sides not by much, so the 2nd day I didnt bother checking on it, and the 3d day ,the driver side was very bad.
I just went now and checked on it again since I last started it, its been 4 days, the temperature in the garage is reading 38F, the passenger side is not bad but the driver side is down, so i started it , the good things is its getting raised in one pump cycle, and again I checked for air leak using soapy water , no air leak all around the supply hose and the whole perimeter of the top end strut, under the hood.
In the past and b4 I had changed the struts , the compressor wasnt able to raise it in one cycle, then it ended up not raising it at all.

 

Free Wifi
thank you for the reply, the garage is flat and the floor jack is a standard 3 ton floor jack, as far as the leak on top of the strut under the hood, I have been spraying soapy water around the air hose fitting and around the whole strut mount area .
a- the first time it was couple air bubbles around the air hose inlet, which I did tighten very slightly.
b- the 2nd time no air bubbles
c- the 3d time no air bublles
note: between everytime it was at least 3 days of leaving the car untouched , in the garage below 40F, and everytime the driver side is signifitaly down.
d- i remenber one time checking on it either the next day and the driver side was down 1 1/2" , and the passenger side was down 3/4", and then the following day or two the driver side is signifitaly down.
thank you!

 

Have you resolved these air leaks?

 

If it is still dropping there is a leak somewhere in the system. Hose, fitting, reservoir tank, or the valve block in the trunk.

 

Hi tanios,

I have merged your new thread with the old one you had already posted to. Please do not start new threads on the same topic as it creates confusion and duplicate effort for other members.

Please see my question in Post #44. I don't think you should suspect your new Arnott air springs/dampers until you have resolved the air leaks indicated by the bubbles in the soapy water.

Cheers,

Don

 

hi Don B
1- the air bubbles had only showed the first time from around where the air hose fitting connects to the strut, and i tighten the fitting just a tad, and since then no more air bubles, the passenger side is only dropping 3/4", the next day ,but the driver side is droping 1 1/2" the next day and it keeps droping after to a point where it's overlaping the fender.
2- the pressure retaining valve was already installed on the strut when shipped, the instructions called to install the valve that the air hose connects to with instructions which i did follow the instructions and it did have an O ring prior to threading it to the pressure retaining valve.
3- I would not attempt to remove the pressure retaining valve to see if there is an O ring b4 calling Arnott, because the air hose connection with the new set up is different from the original factory set up, the new set up is you push the air hose in untill it clicks and you pull on it and it wont come out, so i would not know how to remove it without calling Arnott.
thank you!

 

hi Don
the valve that the air hose connects to threads to the pressure retaining valve, thank you.

 

Hi tanios,

Thank you for the clarification. Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

hi Don B
I have not used the old pressure retaining vale, the new strut came already with a pressure retaining valve already installed and is a different from the original one,
thank you!

 

Hi Don B
im sorry for all the replies, im trying to cover one thing at a time, no I did not cut back the air hose 1/2", because the instructions did not say to cut it back, also with all the times that i had started the car and sprayed soapy water ,no air bubbles around the air hose.

 

Hi tanios,

I was wrong about the length to be cut back. It is 5 mm, which is just less than 1/4 inch. Here's a snip from the Workshop Manual:




I have not seen the SPX Ltd or SPX OTC hose cutter, but the ones sold by Snap-On were branded Blue Point and made by a company in Canada whose name I cannot recall at the moment. I'll have to look at the two I have - they both have the Canadian maple leaf icon. Similar pliers are branded Lisle, Gates, AES Industries, SPC Performance, Draper, KS Tools and others. Here's what the Blue Point cutter looks like. The Vee-shaped anvil jaw helps hold the tubing in place and helps prevent crushing as the thin, sharp blade creates a clean cut at 90-degrees to the length of the hose:





The Jaguar part numbers for the air hose brass fitting kits are:

C2C9931 - Front - 6mm (nut, olive & O-ring)

C2C9930 - Rear - 4mm (nut, olive & O-ring)

Cheers,

Don

 

Happy to report, after two nights of sub-zero °C I saw zero drop with the new Arnotts

 

Hi Jaroslav Zaruba
Thank you!

 

Hi Don B
thank you for all the informations that you had provided me so far!, after many attempts every 3 or 4 days , starting the car so itll rise back up and then 2 or 3 days later the driver sides will end up droping back, I had left the car untouched in the garage for about a month and went back today and sprayed some soap around the air connections at first then started the car up and with a drop light I had watched closely and there were 1 big bubble and 1 one small one below the air line which it appears to be from the gator valve which you had suggested earlier that the O ring could be bad and since the gator valve came already installed , I was not completly convinced, anyway the leak is so slow that the air bubles dont break ride away, so I took couple pictures with my Iphone and I contacted Arnott tech support, at first they suggested that I should contact Rock Auto the seller and get a replacement, but I had told them that the information that I got from Jaguar forum and from a moderator that the O ring could be deffective, or missing, or kincked, they replied that it couldve been cross threaded when installed at the factory and they were leaning more towards getting a new strut , so I had asked them that Id rather change the gator valve at first, so they are sending me one in the mail, and I will post what happens after I change the gator valve, and thank you all!