Did anyone ever find the answer to this? I am having a similar issue where all of the dash lights starting flickering show multiple components failing. I stopped for gas and the car sounded like it wanted to start but never did. I got a jump and the car started but it soon after died again with all of the service lights coming on and the tach and speedometer were all at 0.

 

By the engine dying after starting points in the direction of power to the ECU or the fuel pump

A quick thing you can do is directly power the fuel pump by jumpering the fuel pump relay between socket 30 to 87

This will drain your battery with the keys in your pocket

The car has king relays in the 5 fuse boxes that is controled by one ignition switch

The inertia / crash switch can trip for no reason and can be reset or jumpered ( this inertia switch will take out multiple systems )

Power to the ECU is 2 sources that are used at all times and can be swapped with other unused relays not being used

Ignition positive relay ( king relay ) in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box which only controls your horn

large ECU controlledrRelay that is controlled by the ECU but brings in power back into your ECU and half your engine sensors and importantly is the power to the fuel injectors

 

I will check that but I don't think it is the fuel pump especially with all of the electrical issues and warning and failure lights for just about anything controlled in the car. ABS, Transmission, Engine, you name it the lights came on and the car sputtered to a stop vs just cutting off suddenly. I'm realizing now I should have added more details. I also could not shift the car our of park without using the release switch next to the gear shifter.

 

The fuel pump relay is controlled by a fuse # X in the right heelbord fuse box ( king relay )

The power through the fuel pump relay is in the trunk fuse box

You may have to remove and reinstall the king relays to feel for them to click but it may not fail at the time of testing

but your multiple systems going out is a clue

 

 

By your not shifting out of park means we can see the fault in the driveway

The power to the shift lever lock solenoid is .....# 2 / 5 amp right heelboard fuse box

 

Which year is the car ?

 

It is a 2007 XJR

 

A 2007 is going to be different but they follow about the same electrical layout

The X300 was from 95 to 97

Suggest putting a topic in your year range area and I will catch you there

 

Sorry, I didn't realize I was in the wrong group. I will start a thread there. Thank you for catching that.

 

new thread
You name it and it's failing. All dash lights are on and car sputters to a stop.

 

Try this area for 2007

Do you have the aluminum body version X358 ?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-x350-x358-28/

 

Hello all,

My battery (voltage) light came on the other day and the following day random dash error lights started flickering on and off. The fan is also spinning even after the engine is turned off. drove a little more and then all of the dash lights came on at once and error messages popped up on the screen showing transmission faults, abs faults, etc. I stopped at a gas station and turned the vehicle off and it would not start again. It would crank but won't start. I got a jump and the car started. I started driving home and all of the lights came on again, the tach and speedometer dropped to o and the car sputtered and surged and then died completely and would crank but not start.

A few days before I did replace the entire ignition switch components, but it seemed fine, and the car started just fine, and I was able to drive it to work and back (90 Miles round trip). The car is currently sitting at a shop I am not at all familiar with because I was very far from home. I'm hoping someone here can shed some light on the problem before this shop starts messing with things.

Thanks, and any help is greatly appreciated
Bobby

 

There are 2 wiring diagrams for the 2007 being the 2006 and 2008

The change over design may be if you have a aluminum body vs. the steel body but someone would know better

http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf

and

http://jagrepair.com/images/Electric...al%20Guide.pdf

Aside from the document difference let us look at the ignition switch and the common ground wire that enables the king relays to close

This ground wire may have lost it's car frame ground stud or partially causing intermittent problems

Where you behind the dash with a radio installation ?

The alternator light can be a true failure or a indication failure by a loss of specific power to the indication system

 

I have the aluminum body XJR.
Yes!!!! I had to remove the entire dash unit to reach the ignition switch screws. Is there a ground wire back there? Now that I am thinking about it, I hit a large pothole in the road causing a ruckus and then the lights all came on at once. This happened after the initial battery (Voltage) light came on.

 

Also, I noticed that a couple of radio stations I used to get clear signal on are now mostly static. I read somewhere that it could be noise from the Alternator and that is something to test but could I have not put something back together behind the head unit? I did test that everything worked before putting it back together but I could have very well missed some further back behind the head unit.

 

The static if the beat goes up and down in frequency with engine RPM is a good test on the AM channels

There are diodes in the alternator that partially filter out this and to completely filter it out there is a noise suppressor

This noise if present in the main power cables may effect the ECUs that control things like the engine , transmission and others

A test would be to start the car and remove the fuse to the alternator voltage regulator and the car will be running on pure battery power up until the battery charge gets eaten up

Fuse # F33 passenger junction fuse box , this is point 52 circle double hash

 

i will check that out.

 

I need to double check between the 2006 and 2008 doc

there is a fuse in the upper reply post

 

Your ignition switch works in the opposite sense from the X300 / X308 in that it receives a power source ( instead of a ground ) on one wire Red / Blue at pin 4

This power source should be hot at all times through fuse # F41

terminal nuts tight on both transit isolation relay and mega fuses ?

The transit isolation relay can be intermittent

This can be seen as point 1 square on page 41 of the 2008 Wiring Guide

A clue to which wiring guide for you to use is the 2008 is for VIN # H18680 and above