When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm concluding my posts here because I'll probably veer off-topic in this wrap-up. I got the transmission cover back on and filled with Mercon SP until it was running out. After reconnecting the battery I attempted to start the motor for a few seconds and then add more fluid. Full disclosure, while the car was up and exposed underneath I changed the oil and fuel filter. It started and ran for a few seconds but was making a clatter so I shut it off. After double-checking the oil I attempted to start it again. It would fire once and dis-engage the starter. So I'm not sure where I will go from here but I suspect I'll be researching start-up after depressurizing the fuel system. Again, thanks for all your help.
I picked up the supplies to do the complete fluid exchange and ordered 13 liters of Jaguar transmission fluid for my 2014 XKR. The extra cost for the Jaguar fluid is negligible when considering the time interval between fluid changes and it gives me peace of mind the fluid is the proper spec for my car.
I could not find 1/2 to 3/8 Barb splices so I got 1/2 to 1/2 brass splices. The 1/2 tubing will mean a bit more fluid will be in the tubes to and from the transmission during the procedure. I also got 1/2 washers and they fit freely over the brass barbs.
I'll do the procedure when the fluid comes in later this week or Monday. I was going to do a simple drain/pan replace and only recovered 4.6 liters which is less than 1/2 of the total transmission fluid. I posted a thread in the X150 section and jactra replied with a link to this thread.
After reviewing Don's picture of the connection to the transmission ports I see the 1/2" lengths of clear 1/2" tubing set outside of the port and the nylon barbs fit slightly inside to form a seal. I thought the 1/2" tubing on the barb was slightly inside the port. This makes since because the instructions require a square cut for the small 1/2" tub ends that fit against the transmission casing. I may wrap a few layers of Teflon tape around the brass barb that fits inside the port or pick up 2 ploy 1/2" to 1/2" barbs. I may also exchange the 1/2" tubing I have for 3/8" tubing for better flow control and measuring. I can still use the 1/2" to 1/2" barb splicers because the 3/8" clear tubing fits very snugly inside the 1/2" tubing that I'll fit over the barb splicers. I'll have it all figured out after the fluid arrives and I get a chance to get under the car to set things up.
Please post some photos when you figure out how to make your parts work. Knowing other options will help others.
Cheers,
Don
Absolutely, Don. I've requested the moderator for the X150 make this thread a part of a new maintenance sticky post in the X150 section. The X150's are aging and your procedure should be helpful to other members in the X150 section. It's so dead in here I feel like I'm talking to myself. Ok, enough of posting for one decade and time to drive into a new decade in a Jag with all new fluids.
After buying the supplies to fabricate the adapters to the transmission ports I decided to purchase the $65 retail cooler adapters. It was my intention to get the retail adapters, but I could not find a supplier in North America, only Australia. After reviewing what I was doing I did not want to chance not having a good seal and have a transmission fluid mess under the car during the procedure. I found a supplier in Toronto which will ship them to be next day. $65 plus shipping is not a lot to pay to ensure a, safe, problem free, procedure. After I'm done I may offer the adapters to other members for 1/2 price plus shipping and hope the adapters can be used by multiple members interested in having their transmission fluid changed.
Don, the adapters connect to AN-8 fuel line fittings which I believe have a threaded OD of 1/2". I'm hoping a length of clear 1/2 tubing will fit over it and use small screw clamps to secure it with a bit of white thread sealant. Otherwise, I'll need to pick up some AN-8 fittings which are relatively cheap to connect to the clear tubing. If this were going to be a professional set up to be used multiple times in a shop I would buy the AN-8 fuel line fittings to connect to lengths of braided flexible stainless steel fuel line. The AN-8 fittings are about $5.00 each: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/8AN-AN8-AN-8...JboLjr&vxp=mtr
Don, did you have any leaks at your port connections? The 1/2 lengths of 1/2" tubing you used over the barb ends to form a seal at the port connections would leave the retaining plate about 1/2" off the casting. The plate is used to hold the transmission line fittings in place with a flange that is only about 1/8" thick. I was going to use 2-3 flat washers to raise the retaining plate by putting the washers between the transmission casing and the plate under the screw connecting it to the casing. Otherwise, the retaining plate would be on an angle and not flat against the 1/2" fabricated 1/2" tube seals.
Don, did you have any leaks at your port connections? The 1/2 lengths of 1/2" tubing you used over the barb ends to form a seal at the port connections would leave the retaining plate about 1/2" off the casting. The plate is used to hold the transmission line fittings in place with a flange that is only about 1/8" thick. I was going to use 2-3 flat washers to raise the retaining plate by putting the washers between the transmission casing and the plate under the screw connecting it to the casing. Otherwise, the retaining plate would be on an angle and not flat against the 1/2" fabricated 1/2" tube seals.
I've now done more than a dozen flushes of 6HP26 gearboxes and have had no trouble with leaks at the port connections with my cheap vinyl tubing setup. By positioning the 1/2-inch long sections of tubing to sit about 1/8-inch proud of the ends of the barbed adapters, it requires very little pressure for the vinyl tubing to form a seal at the port, so I hold the tubing perpendicular to the gearbox and tighten the retaining plate screw by feel until the tubes feel like they are held in position well enough. No need to overtighten the screw.
Don, I'm I thinking too much in to this. By removing the inline to the transmission (top port) which returns fluid from the cooler and the lower outline from the transmission which sends fluid to the cooler you effectively isolate the cooler and the lines going to and from it out of the circulatory system. In essence the new fluid going in and out of the ports in your procedure will only circulate fluid within the torque converter and transmission. The fluid in the cooler and the disconnected lines to and from it will remain unchanged.
Too include the cooler and fluid lines in the fluid change procedure a separate procedure will be needed to purge the cooler and the lines using an evacuator or pump to flush the lines and cooler.
The fluid in the cooler and the disconnected lines to and from it will remain unchanged.
Great question! That is correct, the fluid in the cooler is not flushed by the method described in my first post. I use compressed air to blow the old fluid out of the cooler, and during the filling process the cooler is refilled with fresh fluid. Somewhere I have photos showing how I connect a large hose between one cooler line and the drain bucket and use an angled blow tip to apply air pressure to the other cooler line, but I can't remember where I saved the photos. I'll find them eventually!
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, one potential solution would be to disconnect only one cooler line and connect one hose to the transmission port and the other to the disconnected cooler line, but the problem is that the lines are bound together by plastic clips along their length all the way to the engine bay, and getting enough of them disconnected to separate the two cooler lines would be a very tedious task, so I've opted to just disconnect both lines and do the flush as described and blow the old fluid out of the cooler so it can be refilled with fresh fluid once the cooler lines are reattached to the transmission.
Great question! That is correct, the fluid in the cooler is not flushed by the method described in my first post. I use compressed air to blow the old fluid out of the cooler, and during the filling process the cooler is refilled with fresh fluid. Somewhere I have photos showing how I connect a large hose between one cooler line and the drain bucket and use an angled blow tip to apply air pressure to the other cooler line, but I can't remember where I saved the photos. I'll find them eventually!
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, one potential solution would be to disconnect only one cooler line and connect one hose to the transmission port and the other to the disconnected cooler line, but the problem is that the lines are bound together by plastic clips along their length all the way to the engine bay, and getting enough of them disconnected to separate the two cooler lines would be a very tedious task, so I've opted to just disconnect both lines and do the flush as described and blow the old fluid out of the cooler so it can be refilled with fresh fluid once the cooler lines are reattached to the transmission.
Cheers,
Don
Don, two lengths of tubing can be used to slide over the ends of the line fittings that go into the transmission and a pump or evacutor can be used to purge the lines and cooler and refill them with new fluid.
Don, two lengths of tubing can be used to slide over the ends of the line fittings that go into the transmission and a pump or evacutor can be used to purge the lines and cooler and refill them with new fluid.
The cooler and its lines only hold maybe 1/2 liter of fluid, and some of that drips out when the lines are disconnected, so I'm not sure it's worth the trouble of trying to refill the cooler while disconnected. With the cooler lines reattached to the transmission, the cooler will fill almost immediately after the engine is started, so I still think it's easier to just let the trans pump refill the cooler as part of the process of setting the fluid level.
Pump to load fluid Fluid expell measuring bucket Port connections using 90 degree poly 3/8 to 1/2 barbs. Lines held back for installation of port fittings by tuck tape. Made fitting installation much easier. Will remove tape before starting procedure because it is attached to exhaust. However, I need to find what is causing the leak before continuing.
Per our PM discussions, the pan gasket and transmission gasket mating surface should be clean and dry before the pan is installed. I torque the screws in about 3 steps, following the spiral pattern each time: first, by hand until I feel the gasket just begin to compress, then with the torque wrench to about 1/2 of the full specified torque, then to the full specified torque. I then go around the perimeter checking the torque of each screw to be sure none have moved.
In your case, I would suggest dropping the pan and checking the holes of the three leaking screws to be sure the metal inserts are in place, then clean and dry everything and try installing it again.
I dropped the pan and thoroughly cleaned the mating areas. I removed the gasket from the pan cleaned everything and re-cleaned with brake cleaner. Reinstalled pan to dry mating surfaces. Hand tightened bolts. Torqued in spiral pattern to 35 lb in (4nm) and then to 70.5 lb in (8nm). Refilled 1liter through fill port and will wait over night to see if any leaks show.
The 2.3 liters of new fluid drained before dropping the pan again to fix the leak was noticeably brown and not yellow like new.
When refilling through the cooler port is it advisable to shift the car in R,N,1,2,3 to get the fluid to completely expel from the transmission, similar to what is required to finally fill the transmission?
12-21-2019, 04:24 PM
