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Before you were to take the step and cost to replace the O2 sensors perhaps you can troubleshoot with some information as your issue may be something else . Could be as simple as verifying the sensors are connected up correctly as they fit the same type connectors and easily get miswired and crossed .
Do not twist the wires in installation as they are special galvanized wire and brittle .
Bosch and another manufacture have a cheaper connector ready sensor and the X300 has the different titanium sensor other then the common Z sensor so they read differently in that they generate a resistance in the 5.0 volt reference from the ECU before returning as a sensor value . The Z sensor generates it's own voltage from a ground .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 04-20-2018 at 10:57 AM.
The fwd cats is the reference point as you look from the hood side .
You have to feel and look by hand as they go to the point of insulation .
The fwd most cylinder is the # 1 cylinder on the AJ16 and the # 1 bank is always on the # 1 cylinder . S1 will always be the fwd sensor or upstream and S2 will always be the aft sensor or downstream .
If you look at the print you will see that the ECU side of the connector has the same colored wires with the exception of the 1 sensor value return to the ECU . This is how you verify the correct position hookup ,
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 04-20-2018 at 11:40 AM.
Which 1 is the suspect sensor ? If you change more then 1 sensor from what I understand the ECU would need to be " reorientated " at the dealer so I personally would not change more then 1 .
Check the connectors for corrosion for mine were bad . And clean the return wire shielding grounds along the upper back wall of the rear engine bulkhead , 2 of them .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 04-20-2018 at 11:47 AM.
Which 1 is the suspect sensor ? If you change more then 1 sensor from what I understand the ECU would need to be " reorientated " at the dealer so I personally would not change more then 1 .
P1127
Last edited by Jaglady96; 04-20-2018 at 11:48 AM.
Reason: number correction
Which 1 is the suspect sensor ? If you change more then 1 sensor from what I understand the ECU would need to be " reorientated " at the dealer so I personally would not change more then 1 .
And is not listed , from a generic car point of view I would suspect the heater . You can put a meter on the heater wires on the sensor side of the connector and the different sensors should read about the same resistance . Blue / Pink wire through the White / Green wire . You'll have to reference the opposite side connector to the ECU for the wire colors . All 4 sensor heater wires get there power from the same fuse # 14 / 10 amp RH engine fuse box and are provided a ground in wire pairs ( upstream then downstream ) by the ECU black connector for the 1st minute of so of the engine starting sequence . A weak point of this circuit is the Papa Indy 61 connector corrosion and the ECU connector corrosion both being common .
A high or low resistance reading through the 4 sensors 2 heater wires would be the bad one as you compare them . Most likely you will see a high resistance ( or open ) as it may be burnt out as that is the common mode of failure .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 04-20-2018 at 01:01 PM.
Yes , from my understanding someone mentioned that the NTK was different lengths . To be on the safe side they are avail at the local auto parts store in a couple of days ordering and you can take your suspect one with you and compare on the counter so you can get a no questions asked whether you used it or not return . Bosch make a connector ready one also # 12379 .
so P1127 is a downstream Oxygen sensor so this I believe is the one I need to get -https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/oxygen-sensor/bosch-exact-fit-oxygen-sensor/491474_102074_0_98000
Yes , Bosch # 13789 . I was incorrect . There are cheaper sources like the NTK # 25018 at Autozone . None of them I used . Found one at a salvage yard .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 04-22-2018 at 10:46 AM.