Bought this car a few days ago. engine sounded good and it started right up. After a short drive around town I drove it on the highway for a 4hr drive. No problems ran like champ. The next morning I took it proudly to work, about a 5 min drive. Ran good once again. At this point your wondering why I'm bragging about my fine running car. The problem is that on the way home at the last set of lights the rpm dropped off. When I went to pull away any pressure on the pedal started a stall type reaction. I managed to idle into a ally where it stalled. I got it towed home. The next day I added gas just to make sure gas gauge was not the issue. It started right up and my pride and elation knew no bounds. After backing out of the garage I closed the garage door and put away a few things away. When I got back in and put the car in drive it died. Instant humility. Back in the garage it went as it was getting dark and cold outside. Day 3 and after work I went to garage. For fun I turned key. Started right up again. Cautious optimism. I left it idling for about 10 min this time just in case somebody saw me with my Jag and wanted to hear it running. After the previously mentioned 10 min. I allowed my optimism to overtake my foreboding and climbed in. Very comfortable seat nice steering wheel and nice feel to gear selector. Unfortunately I was not able to enjoy the nice ride. After a couple of tentative small attempts at a rev I gave it a rev with authority. Died again and no restart as usual. Suggestion would be great.

 

I attempted to post this before and after a couple of viewings it seems to have disappeared. Here's my question in a nutshell. Bought car,ran well,drove 4 hr on het,ran well,drove 10min to work next morning, ran well,drove home, ran well till 1/8th mile from home,rpm dropped off couldn't touch accelerator with out stall like symptoms, pulled into ally, died would not restart. Towed home. Next day started fine, backed out of garage closed doors put in drive died. Would not restart. Next day started fine let run 5 min couple of small regs fine large rev died no restart. Suggestions?

 

Missed it by THAT much, Bookem! Shoulda posted over in the X300 section. Maybe a mod will happen along and move you over. Meanwhile, go to X300 and search for "Stall" etc. Could be coils...try removing the coil-cover on top - Says "JAGUAR" on it...pull that and see if it will fire up at night, in the dark...and see if you have a lightning show on top of the engine? That'd be some coil-on-plug failure in action. Also, there are a couple of sensors, Crank and cam position sensors, I think, that can possibly create the conditions you are experiencing. You didn't say how many miles you have, but the fuel pumps have a rep of checking out after 100k - but I believe the usual failure mode on them is "Kaput!" and you don't get a start at all, due to lack of fuel being delivered to the engine. Best to peruse the x300 threads and see if your symptoms haven't already been encountered by another member and solution posted. I haven't had any of those problems yet at 98k mi, but recall reading about them.

 

I saw this yesterday, but forgot where I was. (threads now merged and moved to X300 section).

 

When cranking the engine watch the tachometer...it should move a little. If it doesn't, the crankshaft position snesor is probably at fault. The CPS is a known trouble spot, especially if the car has over 100k miles. Easy to replace; about $125 or so.

If the check engine light has been on you can check for trouble codes with a scan tool.

Checking for spark and checking fuel pressure would be a good idea. Of course, this must be done when the engine is in "no start" mode.

If it comes down to pure guesswork I'd go with the crank position sensor.

Cheers
DD

 

I bet with Doug- Only addition is that the crank position sensor on these is generally referred to as the CKPS to distinguish it from the cam position sensor.. And testing the CKPS with an ohmmeter is apparently not a certain thing, so replacement isbest.

 

A REALLY clogged fuel filter could cause the 'running for a while and stall' but it sounds like a fuel pump problem. Idle will not consume much fuel but trying to 'rev' the engine will low pressure will cause a lean misfire and stalling.

You can change the filter and see if it improves. It will need one anyway if the pump is faulty. A new filter is recommended every 30K miles.

bob gauff

 

Ok decided to drive Jag on cross country trip. Damn the torpedoes and full speed ahead as it where. After starting the car and allowing 1hr to warm it up. (I went for coffee and took my time) The car then responded like a champ. A little hesitation but nothing to worry about. Drove it around all afternoon. Shut off and restarted numerous times. Never a long time but long enough to fill up with gas and that sorta thing. Worked great all evening. Next morning I started it up and after a 5 min warm up ( I was impatient) I tried to leave. Almost stalling again and low jumpy rpm. Parked and shut off. Tried to restart, no luck. Went for breakfast and after a 2 hr wait she started up but started hard and ran rough. 15 min and it ran smoothly. Let it sit for 1 hr as I wanted to repeat previous days results. 1 hr later ran well and away we went. 3 hrs of incident free, wonderful driving later saw us at our first destination. When we attempted to slow down to enter a parking lot the old low rpm chug chug was back. Not wanting to stall this far from home I maintained a 1100 rpm with slight brake pressure to regulate speed till we could hit the hwy again. 5 more hrs of running with some speeds of 200km just for fun and nothing but smooth sailing. When I arrived home I pulled into driveway and put in park. Having no fears of being stranded I released the accelerator completely. To my surprise the car only dropped to about 500 rpm then settled out at about 750. It idled like a carburetored engine with a vacum leak. Best way I can describe it. When I put back into drive and stepped on it away we went. Took tour of the neighborhood and stopped at every traffic sign releasing the accelerator completely. Same reaction but always idled like a vacum leak and always pulled away fine when stepped on. Parked again and shut off. Waited few secs and restarted, started fine and idled the same. Shut off and waited 5 min. Restarted the same. Seems that it needs a good warm up, gonna try for 20 min in morning and idles rough no matter what after its been driven. I know this was long but I try to include all details as I know they are important to diagnostic work.
Thanks guys.

 

Tach is moving while cranking. Have decided to try MAF and TB cleaning. Also plugs but one fix at a time so I can tell what fixed it.

 

I like motorcarman's thoughts: Fuel filter or maybe Fuel Pump

 

So we changed the plugs and found that the boots on 3 of the coil paks had cracked boots with burn marks where the plug was shorting out on the head. Fixed this with black electrical tape cause thats what I had. This fixed idle roughness and stall like symptoms at stop lights. One problem remains, no warm starts.After it warms up (doesn't take long) it will not restart after shutting off to get gas, etc. I know on older vehicles this was a sign of a bad coil. While this has 6 coils I wonder if it might still be the problem. Anybody had problems with bad coils? these ones have 270000 kms on them. Second question. Will loosening the fuel line at the fuel rail while cranking cause any permanent damage? I wish to do this to see if I have fuel pressure when it is warm but wont restart. Thanks guys

 

Ok at this point the car starts when cold and will go but would rather a 10 min warm up. If you go immediately on cold start it will drop rpm when you step on it and must be allowed to start away on its own. Highway and town driving are great. The finale problem is no start when warmed up (temp gauge at the N or just before, it doesn't quite ever get to N but it is -10 Celsius here). A 15 min cool down and it starts again with some playing on the throttle pedal, 1/2 hr cool down and it starts fine. If you turn the throttle by hand under the bonnet it will go farther than the foot pedal can take it. If you turn by hand all the way and try warm start it starts and dies immediately. It will do this over and over as many times as you wish. Here's whats been done so far.

Clean MAF,

Clean Throttle Body,

New fuel pressure regulator. Previous owner threw new parts at it rather than diagnose

New plugs. Found that 3 of the boots were cracked and there were burn holes indicating arcing. Wrapped then in electrical tape and misfire went away.

Disconnected fuel line at either end of fuel rail (one at at time of course) and had lots of fuel coming. Didn't check pressure because I don't have gauge.

Fuel relays not hot

Only problem is car has to cool off for 15-20 mins before restart. Annoying but not terminal. Someone must have an answer for this
Thanks in advance guys

 

I'm with Crank Sensor on this one. Don't they do that - ok when cold but not when warm? I'm sure I read that somewhere. Diagnostics would help so much here.

 

Ok I'm posting this in both of the threads I started, hope that doesn't offend anyone. Today we removed the entire throttle body and the EGR valve. The throttle body had very little black gunk and none around the airstepper valve. The egr was not seized or gummed up. The wrist full of hot coolant I got when removing the throttle body was annoying lol. The situation is thus now that I have experimented all day. Cold start every time, throttle fluctuation of about 200 rpm for first 10 min. Can be driven during this time but may stall. Restarts with pedal pressed to the floor. Once warmed up if shut off for more than 10 sec it requires a 10 min cool down period before restart and pedal must be held to floor. If you try to restart before 10 min cool down you will get turn over but no start. If you try with the pedal held down you will get restart and die before reaching 3000 rpm. At this point the car is perfect except for the hot restart 10 min. period. When the car is restarted with the pedal held down there is the smell of being flooded. Any suggestions would be great, I'm leaning toward leaky injectors causing the engine to flood and the 10 min cool down allows some of the raw fuel to evaporate. Thoughts anyone?

 

The car should not start with foot hard on the accelerator (100% throttle) before switching on and cranking. This is actually the 'switch off injectors and clear flooded engine' procedure. So that's one of your issues. Does your ECU not know that the throttle is open 100%??? You definately should not flood an engine with this method - you will clear a flooded engine though.
Again, I think it's a CPS issue. As you can be guaranteed to get this issue (when warm) get some diagnosis done - you need to see what the sensors are reading when the non-start occurs.

 

P0430
P1775
P0300
P1316
P0118
P0420
P0727
P0125
These are the codes so far. I know that there is a misfire code but I think that has been cleaned up with the new plugs and plug boot repair. I intend to clear the codes on Tue. and then check codes thrown when I try to start warm. I realize that the foot to floor procedure shuts off the injectors and allows you to clear the engine. My diagnoses so far shows;

A good spark at all times (I have been assuming up to now the CSP sensor controls this)

A very small amount of pressure in the fuel rail after car is shut off

Good fuel pressure when key is turned on and when running

Car blows cloud of smoke when started warm with pedal held down (the same thing I have seen on any car that was flooded)

My next step is to rig a switch to the fuel pump. When I shut off warm I will disable the fuel pump and try to start. My theory is that the injectors are leaking when warm. This causes the fuel pressure to drop off when the car is shut down. As soon as you try to restart the car the fuel pump comes on for 5 sec. this also allows more fuel to leak by the injectors. After a 10 min wait with a warm engine the raw fuel evaporates enough to allow a "flood" type start.
It's a great theory and uses alot of words lol. Is there any test for a crank sensor? I am more than open to ideas and would love to have your theory, my theory or any other theory to work. If I eliminate everything it has to work!

 

P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature circuit input high
P0125 Excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control
The above codes pertain to the coolant temp sensor - I'd be inclined to fit a new one - they are cheap. Just make sure it's the corect one - the one for the ecu.

P0300 Random misfire detected
P0420 Catalyst efficiency low bank 1
P0430 Catalyst efficiency low bank 2
P0727 (transmission code) Engine speed input circuit no signal
P1316 Missfire rate above limit
P1775 Transmission MIL

Can you read what temp the coolant temp sensor (aka constant trouble sensor) is displaying? I'm wondering if that being faulty is what is keeping the car in open loop. ie, I think you might be in open loop all the time, damaging cats etc. Clear the codes and see what comes back up.

 

Reading through the JTIS cd rom it suggests checking continuity of the cable to the collant temp sensor and checking the thesmostat is operating properly.
Have a look at your ECU/ECM as corrosion can start at the plug/socket.

I'm hoping that the other fault codes are stemming from the coolant stuff but other things to consider are cracks in the exhaust manifold and air leaks. It's just that with your car, things are ok when cold - it does seem temperature related.
Again, live systems diagnostics should give you a big help but I'm sure it's fixable with old school mechanics and a multimeter.

 

Gonna change that sensor ASAP. Want to make sure I have the right one and that it is working. I think you may have the answer here. Today I have found that after shutting off warm and waiting the dreaded 2-5 min period that if I try to start in flood clear mode for 10 sec then immediately start as normal (no pedal at all it starts up) It now seems that I can start the car at anytime (special procedure for each case) and the car must warm up for 10-20 min depending on outside temp. I live in Saskatchewan Canada. We are about -10 - -15 in the mornings lately

 

turns out the problem was all those codes. Had them cleared and car started back up like a new one. I've since been driving for the last 3 days and it works great warm, cold or anywhere inbetween. passed its out of province inspection and no more codes. Great ca!