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First off, I want to introduce myself. I'm new to register to the forums, but have been visiting them very frequently for the past 5 months or so. This is my 1995 XJ6 (long time dream car) that I purchased many months ago non-running. My name is Michael, and my location is Norfolk, VA in God's beautiful USA.
Back story.. previous owner was selling it as is for 2k under the claim that it "just needed a fuel pump. Tank already removed." I figured that should be easy enough... went and saw the car. Realized it was in way worse condition than he had claimed. Took off with the car on the back of a tow truck for $900. Bought a new fuel pump, and upon replacing it, realized the PO didn't include the sending unit, any of the fuel lines, hell not even a gas cap or evap ring. Took a month to source all these parts and figure out how this maze goes together inside the tank. Many failures later, I finally got it all put together and the tank installed. No fuel past the injectors (no signal)and no signal to the tach upon cranking. Also no power to the fuel pump unless I jump the relay. Replaced and checked and fixed everything I could to no avail. Months of research go by (whenever I can... I work 13 hour shifts overnight. Time is slim) and I finally decide to pull my ecm and check the connectors. That's where we are now...
On to the point of the post..
I pulled my ECM and am confronted with a few concerns. Pin #18 on the ecm is corroded and snapped off into the connector (go figure... pin 18 is responsible for 12v injector supply). Also the date on the ECM shows 16/01/06. Strange, no? Considering the car is a 95. Ecu is 11 years newer than the car.
I figure at this point my only option is to replace the ECM. Searching ebay, i find this one.
my concern... the part number is different, but the year and model are correct. Will this ECM work with my car? Also it's established that the pin 18 issue should resolve my injector's lack of pulse. Does this tie in to the fuel pump and lack of tach signal issue? (I've replaced the crank sensor for the issue with the tach and there was no change). On the issue of the connector... does anyone have any advice on pulling that snapped pin out without damaging the connector itself? Any advice and help on getting this sucker running would be amazing. Thank you all so much in advance.
That plug is a really nasty situation. Definitely hose it down with electronics cleaner to try and break down the corrosion. Not sure how aggressive you can get with the chemicals before you start damaging plastics or coatings in there.
AFAIK the ECM should be fine. I think the only difference between part no.s (as long as it's for 4.0 NA) is Emissions for different regions, so the engine should run fine.
Some things to consider
1. ECM's can be programmed for O2 sensors in 2 ways but there is no way of telling which way around you have, or what the replacement has. It's an easy solution if you get one that's the opposite of yours (the car will run badly and STFT will be miles out and opposite on each bank). You just swap the connections for the rear O2 sensors.
2. If the socket for the connectors is so badly corroded, I'd expect the plug to be the same so maybe consider replacing that and splicing the cables. That approach get's over your broken pin also.
3. Corrosion like that is caused by water ingress. You will need to find and fix where the water is coming from, or at least provide some protection to the new ECM/Connectors or you will be back at square one soon.
Last edited by b1mcp; 12-18-2023 at 06:00 PM.
Reason: extra info
The controlling ground by te ECU pin Black 18 to close the 2nd power relay to the ECU and all 6 injectors , there is 1 fuse on this control and 1 fuse for the muscle power that passes through the relay
You can provide your own ground wire to close this relay or jumper between socket 3 and 5
The supercharged engine regulation is pretty much the same minus a 2nd fuel pump
There is a inertia / crash switch that can trip very easily and can be reset ( does not always reset ) or jumpering between the 2 white wires on the 3 wire connector with a paper clip
This is a pic of a right hand steering model and the switch will always be on the right
The controlling ground by te ECU pin Black 18 to close the 2nd power relay to the ECU and all 6 injectors , there is 1 fuse on this control and 1 fuse for the muscle power that passes through the relay
You can provide your own ground wire to close this relay or jumper between socket 3 and 5
The supercharged engine regulation is pretty much the same minus a 2nd fuel pump
wow. I saw one post that told me what pin 18 was and I was entirely wrong. So much good information from everyone so far, but this seems to be the best. Are you saying that I don't need to replace my ecu, and I can just ground that relay myself with a standard ground wire at the source? Or am I getting ahead of myself?
There is a inertia / crash switch that can trip very easily and can be reset ( does not always reset ) or jumpering between the 2 white wires on the 3 wire connector with a paper clip
This is a pic of a right hand steering model and the switch will always be on the right
I've checked this switch. It checks out just fine. Unfortunately.