1995 XJ6 will crank but not start
#1
1995 XJ6 will crank but not start
I have been driving quite a bit without any problems at all. Today I park it on an incline for about an hour and now it will not start. It has never complained a bit when starting it in the past, fires up hot or cold...I don't think it's the crank shaft sensor on account of the rpm needle moving up when I try to start it. I also ran jumper cables to it from my truck to ensure that it wasn't just a weak battery, still nothing. Any ideas why this would show up so suddenly?
#3
Not in full, I know to check the plugs for fuel, but the pump and fuel lines i have not tried before. If it is a huge job for an amatuer I will likely take it to a shop.
#5
Unfortunately, the X-300 does not have a fuel pressure test port, so you do a subjective test of cracking a fitting to see if there is fuel there. Alternately, you can introduce (unburned) propane into the air intake to see if it fires.
How much fuel is in the tank and how much incline?
How much fuel is in the tank and how much incline?
I have read about that to see if there is fuel coming thru, but I have not been able to find a clear description of where that fitting is located...any pictures?
I have a little over 1/2 a tank, the slope is about 5-7 degrees.
#6
#7
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#9
#10
I am not sure I understand what you are saying in posts 7 &9. The fuel at the output of the filter probably tells nothing since gravity will take it there. But if your fule rail is drie after cranking, I would say either the pump is not getting power, the pump is bad, or the hose on the pump outlet has blown off.
I suggest you test for power at the pump terminals on the tank before you go after the pump since changing the pump is such a PITA.
Check the archives for the two valid procedures to change the pump. Either you remove the tank or you cut a hole in the parcel tray behind the rear seat. DO NOT try and move the tank without removing the fuel lines exiting the bottom. They crimp easily and are not readily replaced.
Again, a lot of discussion in the archives.
I suggest you test for power at the pump terminals on the tank before you go after the pump since changing the pump is such a PITA.
Check the archives for the two valid procedures to change the pump. Either you remove the tank or you cut a hole in the parcel tray behind the rear seat. DO NOT try and move the tank without removing the fuel lines exiting the bottom. They crimp easily and are not readily replaced.
Again, a lot of discussion in the archives.
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superA (02-29-2016)
#11
This car has not been driven at all really for about a year, less the month I've owned it. Older man died and his wife finally decided to sell the car. I filled up the tank and put some injector cleaner in the tank. Let it get down to below 1/4 of a tank and filled it up again. Drove 5 miles and that was it. Wouldn't start after that. Thought the cleaner might have knocked some junk loose that clogged the filter. Figured I'd do that first since it's much easier than the pump. Post 7 was me clumsily trying to ask if the fuel in the line in between the filter and engine should have been burned off post the filter getting clogged or the pump not working.?
#12
OK, so where we are is:
1) Tach shows 200- 250 rpm whilst cranking
2) Fuel rail dry of fuel after cranking
So, it is looking like you have a bad pump, but before changing it, I recommend assuring that the pump circuit is getting power at the tank. The pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then runs again as you crank. Look at the schematic and check (to ground) at the tank connection for about 12 volts when the pump is supposed to be running.
There should be about 40 psi pressure at the engine, so the car will generally run poorly for low pressure before the line is dry. I suspect you MIGHT have the fairly common problem of the pump outlet hose, in the tank which is connected by hose clamps coming loose.
1) Tach shows 200- 250 rpm whilst cranking
2) Fuel rail dry of fuel after cranking
So, it is looking like you have a bad pump, but before changing it, I recommend assuring that the pump circuit is getting power at the tank. The pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then runs again as you crank. Look at the schematic and check (to ground) at the tank connection for about 12 volts when the pump is supposed to be running.
There should be about 40 psi pressure at the engine, so the car will generally run poorly for low pressure before the line is dry. I suspect you MIGHT have the fairly common problem of the pump outlet hose, in the tank which is connected by hose clamps coming loose.
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superA (02-29-2016)
#13
OK, so where we are is:
1) Tach shows 200- 250 rpm whilst cranking
2) Fuel rail dry of fuel after cranking
So, it is looking like you have a bad pump, but before changing it, I recommend assuring that the pump circuit is getting power at the tank. The pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then runs again as you crank. Look at the schematic and check (to ground) at the tank connection for about 12 volts when the pump is supposed to be running.
There should be about 40 psi pressure at the engine, so the car will generally run poorly for low pressure before the line is dry. I suspect you MIGHT have the fairly common problem of the pump outlet hose, in the tank which is connected by hose clamps coming loose.
1) Tach shows 200- 250 rpm whilst cranking
2) Fuel rail dry of fuel after cranking
So, it is looking like you have a bad pump, but before changing it, I recommend assuring that the pump circuit is getting power at the tank. The pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then runs again as you crank. Look at the schematic and check (to ground) at the tank connection for about 12 volts when the pump is supposed to be running.
There should be about 40 psi pressure at the engine, so the car will generally run poorly for low pressure before the line is dry. I suspect you MIGHT have the fairly common problem of the pump outlet hose, in the tank which is connected by hose clamps coming loose.
I'm betting you are correct. Checked all fuses already and they are solid. Haven't had time to check the tank connection yet.
#14
Just wanted to update. Removing the gas tank is a bit more labor intensive than I am prepared to tackle, so I took the car to Brian at BDH automotive in Moore, OK. It turned out to be the pump outlet hose as sparkenzap had suspected.
Brian got the job done quickly, gave the car a good look over and gave me a small list of things that I will want to have looked at in the future. I won't hesitate to take my car back to him if need be.
Brian got the job done quickly, gave the car a good look over and gave me a small list of things that I will want to have looked at in the future. I won't hesitate to take my car back to him if need be.
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RJ237 (03-12-2016)
#15
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