So, this XJR (X306 Supercharged I6) sat for quite awhile before i got it (5+ years), new fuel tank, both new fuel pumps, fuel filter, new battery, and spark plugs. it still wont start, thinking fuel injectors but hoping not as they seem to be expensive. just cranks and catches for a second sometimes, any ideas? could it be the fuel pressure regulator? going to try starting it with starting fluid, and will update, i suppose if it does start, then it is indeed the injectors.

 

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

Your XJR6 appears to be missing the pipe that connects the air filter box to the supercharger intake. This pipe includes the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS), which provides a critical signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). You can see the missing parts in the diagram below. You should have an electrical connector near the air filter housing that would connect to the MAFS, which is Part 1 in this diagram:




Another common cause of cranks-but-won't start is the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS). Watch your tachometer while cranking the engine. If the rpm shows 0 instead of 150-200 rpm, suspect the CKPS, which is mounted next to the crankshaft pulley/harmonic damper, at about 9 or 10 o'clock when facing the front of the engine.

Another possible issue is low battery voltage while cranking. If the voltage sags much below 11 volts while cranking, the ECM will not trigger the ignition to fire. Jaguars like strong, healthy batteries.

You need fuel, air, spark, compression and timing, and most of those are not difficult to test.

For more ideas, check out this thread, with the first post compiled by our member aholbro1:

Gentlemen: (No)Start Your Engines

Also, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

Great spot Don, well done!

 

Hey there, Sorry i didnt realize at the time i took that photo i had taken the maf out to clean it, i have since done a few things. i read most of that No start forum thread you linked. I tested each of the injectors manually out of the car, 5/6 sprayed good, 1 not at all. so cleary that needs to be replaced but with 5 working it should start. I Have replaced the CKPS just today and it actually tried to start!! i thought i had it fixed so i didnt let it run so i could make sure it was good on fluids and etc. and now its right back to not firing at all. I bought a new battery (600 CCA) and when it cranks the voltage drops well into the red, everytime. even when i have my big charger hooked up at 200 amps engine start. Should i get a more power full battery?? like 800+CCA? I know it has fuel up to the rails as when i had the injectors out some came out, i even turned the key with them out to make sure the pump was working and they are (as expected because they are new), also made sure the fuel pump cut off switch is working properly. Is it possible my new CKPS has given up right away like that? it produced an immediate result the first try after i put it in, then nothing. At this point i really want this thing to just run. I have hooked up an OBD II scanner and got a few codes at a couple different times, have since cleared them yet to get them back P0159, P1775, and P0118.

I have yet to check compression and spark but something tells me this is a stupid sensor issue

 

Been checking random stuff and this ground is REALLY rusty. this would have been a 13mm bolt at one point i think, its the main bulkhead ground on the drivers side (lhd)

Could this be my problem? if so how do i get this apart to clean it or any tips on what to do? i cant get it off with my socket set or pliers obviously, do i need to cut it off? can i create another ground? or clean up the ground and move it somewhere else to see if the car starts?

 

Rusty grounds can definitely cause major problems. You could just run an entirely new wire to a clean spot.

 

Vee have vaaayzz of making you resolve
Some quick checks before going into detail :

 

Edit funtion does not work on current computer so new post :






Swap the right engine bay fuse box relay ( # 9 ignition positive relay ) ) with the one one the left ( the left only runs the car horn in reality ) . This is the first power to the ECU

Swap the large ECU controlled relay ( right # 5 ) with the AC clutch relay for a short term try or the fog light relay for a harder dig out in front of the ECU controllled relay position . This is the second power to the ECU controlled by the ECU that reurns power back to the ECU itself including the power that " sits on " the injectors . Follow the red , drawn in lines on the print . Click twice on the print and drag around .

Verify that these 2 relays click with your finger on them in the starting sequence , don't rely on sound

Check the both fuel pumps on your supercharged version " control " single fuse # 10 ( red ) 5 amp in the right heelboard fuse box below the rear seat .

This is different then the green 30 amp power fuse in the trunk



Notice this fuse also powers the OBD 2 scanner port for the hand held device which someone found the pins bent and shorting out blowing the fuse
Jumper the # 1 fuel pump relay to directly power the fuel pump without going through the control circuit . Best to use blade type wire connectors and heavy gauge jumper wire to not arch the relay sockets , disconnect the battery positive lead first . Don't touch the BT4 connector above the fuel tank yet .








Replace old fuel . The X300 does not have a anti - siphon trap in the fuel fill neck

Rotate the key to the on position only before the start position , hold for 10 seconds before returning to the off position , repeat 5 time before attempting to start it , This ensures the fuel line is primed correctly with fuel pressure in a modified start sequence .

There are check valves in the pumps itself that trap the correct fuel pressure ( 43 psi ) for successful start . Some are bad off the shelf and only takes one to bleed off the fuel lines . External check valve outside the tank option used by others

Internally ruptured fuel pressure regulator ? Check the vacuum line for fuel not suppose to be there between the FPR and the intake manifold after a start cycle




Ensure you do not have a engine cylinders " bore wash " condition that effects cylinder compression

Correct mass air flow sensor ? Supercharged version different

correct ECU ? Supercharged version different

TPS connector installed ?

Camshaft position sensor adjusted correctly ? This is the round object on the fwd right side different then the other Crankshaft sensor

The camshaft sensor is used in the start sequence only and aids in faster start up but will revert to crankshaft sensor if not seen by the ECU , but takes more rotations

11.4 volts and above on starter sag ? This can be seen at the right engine fuse box large B + terminal post or the glove box light socket

Any questions just ask

 

He's back in all his former glory!!! And then some! Love the artwork! Welcome home Parker!!

 

New computer fresh out of box , theretofore troubled .

My colorings stored on my Moms refrigerator