Going to see a 96 xjr at a junkyard tomorrow to see if the motor looks worth pulling to put in my '76 XJC. Does anyone have any tips on how to pull it in a junkyard setting, and more importantly what electronics systems do I need to also take if it looks feasible?

ECM under passenger dashboard, what else? i'll probably use a Getrag manual with it if I get it so don't need auto box control modules, or do I? What parts of loom do I need to take with me?

I have a 1996 XJ12 and the workshop manuals that cover the x300 cars also which I'll be looking at closely but any practical guidance gratefully appreciated!
Thx

 

I would start from a position of trying to get everything. Some bits are becoming hard to source, and if you have them in front of you, better to take them rather than have to hunt them down later. ECM for sure, I would take the transmission modules ( I would take the engine and transmission from the junkyard as a single unit), make sure you have the MAF as it is XJR specific. Engine compartment wiring loom(s). You might want to think about the fuel pumps, as this engine needs two to feed it at full chat, but you will be in for some fuel plumbing fun with a 76 XJC one way or another. Similarly the exhaust, I am not sure what you are thinking about cats etc, but you will need to retain the O2 sensors for the ECM to work, and the front cats are relatively compact and a simple way to retain the O2 sensors. The crossover cat which sits under the floor is also a relatively compact piece of kit and might be worth having. Come to think of it, the whole exhaust might be useful as a starting point for your XJC, the basic layout is similar, but the pipe is a different diameter.
There are some other threads in here about the specific joys of a manual conversion.
Good luck!

 

I would keep the entire driveshaft, Never know what you will need. Intercooler, Radiator, Condenser, A/C hoses, Electric water pump, Charcoal canister and pipe work. Air cleaner.

Thank you.

Larry Louton

 

All the hoses you can get off of it

You might swap with another AJ16 engine the valve cover ( the same ) that is in better condition . The large valve cover is cast from magnesium and you have to scatch off any bubbling paint that can hide what's going on with the metal . I swapped mine for a pristine one

If you can find a AJ16 engine in the salvage yard with XJREngineers aftermarket front crankshaft position sensor bracket swap it out .

There are some adjustment details that are different as the camshaft sensor adjustment and crankshaft sensor adjustment ( fixed and none ) are related to each other as they come around TDC . There is a 5 degree adjustment difference for the cam with the aftermarket crankshaft bracket

The Mass Air flow sensor for the supercharged engine that is different then the normally asperated one . They can be hard to come by

OBD 2 connector with pigtail

Both left and right engine fuse boxes

You will definitely need the right as this is the ignition positive relay receptacle as the relay in the corner

The transmission cooling lines and if the cooling radiator is different with the transmission cooling ( GM automatic )

There are 4 O2 sensors , a front pair and aft pair . one pair regulates the engine and the other pair is a comparison for catalytic efficiency fault code which you may not have the ability to see with your dash setup

The Europe modal have a different O2 sensor setup and I think the supercharged vs. non - supercharged have a different front or rear engine regulation pair

The big relays and their sockets with pigtails

To start would not need a BPM to look at your shift lever package or security module just a toogle switch to provide a starter solenoid relay command ( to close ) ground

There is a electric water pump on the Fwb right quarter panel to feed the intercooler . some have used a higher volume different Bosch unit for the intercooler . I think this can be obtained from the later X308 models

There is a 2nd electric water pump to feed the cabin heat on the rear left quarter panel

You probably have this same cabin heat water pump setup on the XJC but the hose arrangement around the 2nd water pump and it's modulating shut off water valve may be different . this is a specifically shaped hose and in your final installation you may require a different shape

Enough radiator cooling fan capacity ? The X300 has 2 electric fans that are controlled by a relay package as one unit just fwd of the left front wheel under the car . White in color and the black same relay package is different on the later X308 . get the wire connector and the wiring at least to the 2 electric fans . It is one big relay so will be easy to mount but has to be mounted upright or water will migrate into the relay ruining it . On the fans connectors do not pull out the locking tab out too far during removal , posable breakage

The Engine ECU that came with that engine

This has to do with the TPS adjustment ( more on that )

The transmission ECU for the GM transmission ( same as on your V - 12 X305 ) before you convert to the Getreg

On the Getreg there is the question on engine speed spool down before shifting and the rotational mass differences of the 3.2 liter normally asperated that it is used on and your 4.0 supercharged and it may come down to your personal feel or a spool down " aid " programmed into the engine ECU or a piggy back engine ECU by XJREngineer who is up to speed on the ECU

Wire harness :

The connectors metal lock bars and extras from the trunk dome light connectors . You can still source these lock bars

you have some engine regulation wires that go through the Papa Indy 1 and 61 connector next to it . the path to the ECU is through the right fender underneath the plastic wheel well shroud . this is the RS3 connector

You have 2 large connector disconnects LS3 and RS3 down in the bottom as the finder wheel arcs down behind the front tires . The same as on your V - 12 X305 so you want to familiarize yourself on it before the day at the salvage yard . This connector can be hard to reconnect and might break the locking pins

You might consider the pros and cons of putting the ECU in the engine compartment

The rest of the engine regulation wires go over the fuel rail and into the cabin with no connector but a pass through

The firewall pass through rubber grommet

On the left side lower LS3 connector you have alternator regulation wires and smog pump

In rebuilding the ECU connectors which you will most likely get involved with I have the connector already mapped out on a chart and the connector part with pins and sockets is easily available

Member Vee would be a good reference when repining the connector

If you find 2 clutch pedal packages and boost reservoirs in England can you grab it as I would like to do the same Getreg mod on my normally asperated down the road

ECU connector as a TE Connectivity Econseal # 344111 - 1 get one including sockets . Red doesn't seem available but I can cut a red one off at a salvage yard . I've done before






Papa Indy 1 and 61 connector 13 Way Male Econoseal Kit EC13MK-228x228

Note : you will have 2 extra wires on one side of this connector that are there for the V - 12 installation not used on the inline 6 . they use one harness compatible for both engines



















Editing

 

Terrific info thanks!

I'm going today to see if much has gone off the car and to see what kind of shape it's in. If it looks good I'll be back asap with my crowbars and ice picks!

 

The car was picked clean and a mess - too late! shame as it was side damage no front end hit.
i did get some common parts for my V12, a lot of relays, the J shift illuminated panel, couple of spare lug nuts etc but back to my original plan of buying a complete car and swapping everything over.

 

The Mass air flow if willing to part ways is worth grabbing

Needs to be part # x , some people have installed the wrong one

The valve cover if in good shape is worth swapping out

The Engine ECU in case you find a desirable low mile engine without one ( there is a work around to get the TPS to " match " the ECU " orientation or setting " that is hard to change )

The interior front seat center consul as it will be black can have leather damage on the future car obtained

 

[QUOTE=olivermarks;2366301]Going to see a 96 xjr at a junkyard tomorrow to see if the motor looks worth pulling to put in my '76 XJC. Does anyone have any tips on how to pull it in a junkyard setting, and more importantly what electronics systems do I need to also take if it looks feasible?

ECM under passenger dashboard, what else? i'll probably use a Getrag manual with it if I get it so don't need auto box control modules, or do I? What parts of loom do I need to take with me?

I have a 1996 XJ12 and the workshop manuals that cover the x300 cars also which I'll be looking at closely but any practical guidance gratefully appreciatedI

 

I have just fitted the xjr motor with a getrag 5 speed box to a 1971 series one XJ6.I used a after market electronic system called Spitronic. Much simpler than the jag system. Do not forget to get the rad and pump for the S C cooling system. I separated my S C cooling system from the car. In other words it has a totally separate water supply . The idea being to cool the air into the engine more and thereby increasing the power. My motor was also from an Auto car and because there where no Manuel used units from an XJR available I had to modify and make up a clutch assembly, Adapt a bell housing etc to fit a Getrag . This was quite a mission. I have another complete 1997 XJR x300,This car is not running due to some electrical issue. This is my next project. I am going to see if I cannot throw out the original ECU etc and fit a more basic system like I have on The XJ6.These are beautiful cars but seem to always have some electronic problem. When ever you look on Jag Forums there are queries regarding electronics. Like all modern cars ,fine when its working but huge problems when it is not. Going back to the junk yard , take everything you can always junk it later.

 

My strongest recommendation; buy the entire car - you will not regret it because you will find parts there you must have and will pay a bundle to get them later. If there are other XJR's in the yard, take the better part of those. You might make a deal to return the rest of the car to the yard for a reduced cost. Break A Leg, R

 

just arrived in case anyone in Sacramento area is on the scavenge
https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_de...PX1144TC785533

I'm running my yard filters daily...

 

Take a look at the later years X308 with the V - 8

The headlights are a better manufacture with more lens back silvering then what is on the X300s

The X300 / X305 from the X308 headlight swapping is common to get away from the X300 silvering dulling , looks more brand new

It runs about $ 75 for each pair side on Ebay

Lefts are hardest to find

It requires the lens pair brackets behind the lens pairs

cut off a long enough bulb socket pigtail

pernitrate spray on the palls help them pop off easier from the plastic bracket so you can get to the mounting hardware

The brights / normal lens position is reverse between the X300 and X308 or it may just be the small bulb exit curtesy bulb socket on the bottom of the lens

If you need some waterproof splices better then the open ended butt splices let me know

You may need the same on your engine harness build

 

If you want a perfect fit of the AJ16 XJR engine into the S2 XJC you only have to buy the engine mounts from a XJS 4.0 AJ6 engine. Fits just like original. If you want to mount a manual getrag 290 then you probably must improvice,
I think a XJC with the XJR/SC engine and manual trans is the best modification ever for a Jaguar.

 

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

AJ6 engine mounts the same as the AJ16 and the year crossover for the XJS model ?

I noticed left side and right side different part # s

 

Aj6 and AJ16 fit the same, Xjs first models are based on the XJ with XK engines, but fitted the new AJ6 engine. Left and right part are different because the Aj6 & Aj16 engines are tilted a litlle.