So I bought a 1997 Vanden plas 4.0 inline 6 about a month ago. It needed some work but I mostly have it running smoothly.

There are some minor electrical issues that I am stump on.

1. left side turn indicators do not work. light in the dash works but none of the exterior left turn indicators work. Even with hazards on these 3 lights are still out.

• the lamp out warning light on the dash is not illuminated.
• I have check all the grounds on this circuit that I’ve been able to find.
• i check the connection in the corner of the front bumper for corrosion it is clean, i still have the dust guard plastic on the bottom so all that area is well shielded.
• checked every fuse in the car.
• When the right hand turn indicators are enabled. I hear a click in the trunk. With the left turn enabled, only the light in the dash no clicking in trunk.
• I removed my lamp control module from the trunk. I noticed this damage.
  (The picture won’t upload. But there is a spot on the lamp control module on the back side, it look like a pin got to hot or arced, and melted a small section of the circuit board. Also some other corrosion on the board, will try to get pic up soon.)

Icloud link to photo(s):
HTTPS://share.icloud.com/photos/066XAKM_9ldMsZM6WQoAA9Kug


I’m thinking the lamp control module is where my problem is. And it’s a cheap part. Just wanted to ask for any additional info before I buy it.



2. windshield wiper not working

• took dash apart to access the area where the crimp that people often find a wire loose from. The crimp was fine and all wires were inside. Though I did clamp it down harder and that didn’t do anything.
• I couldn’t figure out how to get the actual arm that adjusts the speed of the wiper out of the steering column. Will need to give this another go.
• I’ve got a few grounds to check still on this circuit.
• never works regardless of steering wheel position.
• the windshield wiper fluid dispenser DOES work. And is engaged by pressing a button on the same control arm. So it seems the wiring from the control arm seems good? I’m stumped.
• my plan is to replace the wiper motor and see if that works. I don’t hear it even try to kick on when enable the wipers though so I’m not certain that will work.

3. the horn doesn’t sound.

• I have played with this much. I know that the relay does click when hitting the button on the steering wheel.
• that’s as far as I’ve gotten with this issue

Could all this be connected? I’ve spent a few days on this and gotten nowhere. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.

I can’t afford to take to a dealership right now. I need a local mechanic familiar with these cars. I’m in North Carolina.

Ps.
id rather not throw money at a bpm for it not to work or create more problems. I suppose I could open it up though and see if there are any issues I can identify with the naked eye.

 

I just noticed these two plugs in the trunk are unplugged. Any idea what these go to?


The white single wire and the black plug


also here are the pics of the lamp control module

 

All three of your problems get their power through the front left fuse box. Might want to revisit some fuses there: F5 F6 F10 F14


There is a slight chance of poor connections under the fuse box. A good sign if the starter, engine fans and the left high beam are working. Check the power pass-thru connection for that box at the firewall, it is known to get rusty.

Also fuse F16 in the right side heelboard box is needed for the wipers.

I don't think the unused connectors in the trunk are needed. the small one is a transit relay plug used when the car was shipped from the factory. The black one might be a pigtail to an unused relay socket (?).

The Lamp Control Module looks a little dirty but that doesn't mean its shot, if most of the lamp functions work. Try the free checks first.

 

also note sometimes fuses can appear good and test as good however the can have corroded legs and therefore not actually provide a proper connection.
if in doubt it never hurts just to swap them.

 

yes but looks at the last two photos of the lcm. Do you see where the plastic appears melted right by one of the pins?

 

I'm no expert with circuit boards, but it looks like the pads where the components attach and traces connecting them are still in pretty good shape. What about the components? Do any look burned? You can go through it and test resistors and test continuity that might reveal a problem. There are no circuit schematics for any of these modules, and sometimes they do die out even if they look perfect. Your choice to try a new module, sometimes that is what is needed!

 

Swapped some relays around in the driver side front of the engine bay today. Solved the wiper problem, very exciting.



it was the relay on the bottom right with the blue wire going to it that went bad. Switching with a working relay fixed the windshield wiper problem.

 

With the left engine bay fuse box on the box itself there are 2 connectors attached and can't see unless fuse box flipped over

For all fuse boxes fuses 1 - 9 are hot at all times

Fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 require the relay on the fuse box to close , in this left side instance is only the car horn 1 and 2

The remaining fuses will be hot at all times,

I think you can spray some penetrating oil in the horns to free them up as I think they spin

 

The black 3-way Faston connector is the accessory power. It has battery positive and ground, but to get the ignition switched power you might need to add a relay to the accessory socket in the trunk fuse panel.

(Vehicle Care pg. 98)
I use the trunk accessory point for a battery maintainer. The front powers my dashcam.

 

I forgot about that relay before. Good job solving the problem by swapping it. The one next to it is for wiper fast/slow speed.

 

I may be misunderstanding but are you theorizing that fixing the horn fixes my other problems associated with this fuse box? I’ll pull the grill off and check the horns next.



I was close to giving up so I’m glad I got this glimmer of hope fixing one of the issues. Wipers are working great.

 

Check the horn ground studs

On the left engine bay fuse box all fuse spaces that are used ( excluding 10 and 14 for horn ) are hot at all times

The relay in the corner only controls the simultaneous 2 horns

 

So, I checked the horn ground stud on the passenger side. It fixed the horn, and all was well.

my central locking had gone out. Prior to this.

After fixing the horns I drove to the gym, locked the doors. What do ya know. The central locking worked when I did, needless to say I was very happy, everything was fixed, except the left turn indicators, but no big deal. I was happy, only one problem left to solve.

until I came out of the gym about 45 minutes later and opened the door. noticed none of my interior lights turned on and central locking no longer worked. I went to crank the car. Nothing. All dash lights turn on, but no crank at all, not even trying.

The trunk lights are now out, the drivers side ceiling light works but the center and the passengers side don’t, the red lights on either door doesn’t work.

I am stuck in park. So I don’t know how I can even have the vehicle towed home. It’s sitting at the gym right now.

All other electronics seem to be fine. Headlights turn on in the low mode, sunroof works, radio works, ac works.

Ugh.. would love to be able to get it started enough to get it home 5 minutes away. Or at least put into neutral so I can get it towed.

 

There is a shift lever lock solenoid controlled by,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,researching

I have a pic on it's control somewhere as my last computer went boom boom

Looking for other wiring pic but this is some as you don't need to open the shift box yet

If you look in the pic behind the shift knob you will see 2 blue striped relays that of specific to the key barrel and shift column lock solenoids , but not your main power distribution source






X300 shift lock jaguar forums - Search Images (bing.com)



You distributed power into the system points are X and Y and power for the body processor module ( hot at all times from fuse in trunk )

There is a manual override screw on the top cars left shift light plate by removing the screw and under it pressing with a round shaft a button to move the shift lever

Let's bring your issues of power to one common denominator like a relay in the corner of a fuse box " king relay "

 

Thanks for that. Should help me get it home.

Also, when hitting the brake I’m not hearing a click. And the red “P” park indicator on the gearshift is on.

 

The brake switch is 2 switches in one package with one dedicated to the brake lights

To test the other brake switch you can see it at pin 20 of the brake anti - skid module

Pin 20 is correct

another pic coming but we should focus on your power distibution

 

To test the " not in park " switch , move the shift lever slightly out of the park gate and feel with your finger the key barrel for a click

This confirms BPM , Key barrel solenoid , it's specific blue stripped relay and the switch

Will be adding more info on the above post and power distribution points X and Y ( 50 square and 52 square ) and where it comes from

 

50 square and 52 square are both / shared fuse # 2 right heelboard fuse box and this fuse is hot at all times not requiring the king relay in the corner of the fuse box to close

 

To test the whole car power distribution have the key in the run position with engine not running

Remove each of the 5 king relays in the corner of each fuse box with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box ( horn in this case )

The relays should click in your fingers , the horn relay is a swapping option

The king relays are closed by an ignition switch ground path , the ignition switch can be replaced if needed detaching from the key barrel so no new key needed



This is a pic of the detached ( not needed yet ) of the ignition switch and the switch side half of the connector

The pin 5 on the car side half is a car frame ground that all king relay control ground paths goes through

Pin 2 and 3 go to the king relays ( as a group of 4 relays ) pulling / closing coil magnet / control

Pin 4 is the on key removal linier switch that controls the security system on exiting the car , this may have some effect on not allowing you to start on reinterring car if the security is hung up on a past exit step like the pin 4 not making

lube switch barrel through key hole ( graphite spray best ) but a dripping mess

pin 5 should be as close to zero resistance to car frame as possible . pin can be corroded from fluids getting into it or pin 5 car frame ground stud disturbed by radio installation and the likes

To bring the car side half of the connector out to you , lift straight up on the connector from it's dash mount

 

I removed all king relays with the ignition on on they all clicked.

i went to check other relays I thought could be related. I found this which says it’s ignition relay to be empty. But how? How have I been driving the car at all, I’m so confused???

this is the front of the engine on the passenger side.



The manual says there are 3 relays here but I only have 2. Ignition coil, which just had an empty relay box, power wash, and wiper wash, but I only seem to have 2.

Empty relay box


I didn’t have a relay with that part number but I had some similar ones that fit perfectly, I swapped the empty relay with one of those and still no change.

everything seems to be working except the passenger side overhead “map” light, the center overhead light, the interior trunk lights, and the red lights on the door. As well as central locking, and of course stuck in park and car won’t crank either.

The central locking switch on the ski slope is glowing a constant red with no blinking.

I think this may be related to the ground point in the front right of the engine, because the horn is still intermittent. And cleaning that ground is what fixed the horn. But I cleaned it better last night and nothing changed.

That empty ignition coil relay really has me scratching my head. I’m gonna have a towed home today. Then I can really get into some testing. I was really hoping I could get it going and drive it home.