1997 X300 XJR occasionally dies at idle, unknown codes B30F4 & P13B0
#121
Hey Al,
I am working through a similar set of symptoms. I notice on my car, when the engine cuts out and recovers the air injection pump cycles. This suggests that despite not going through a ignition key cycle, the ECU is encountering the equivalent. Have you experienced similar behaviour?
best of luck,
I am working through a similar set of symptoms. I notice on my car, when the engine cuts out and recovers the air injection pump cycles. This suggests that despite not going through a ignition key cycle, the ECU is encountering the equivalent. Have you experienced similar behaviour?
best of luck,
It helps the rest of us think through issues if you will include the year, model and engine of your Jaguar. The easiest way to do this is to use your User Control Panel (User CP) to edit your signature and add these details so they will appear in all of your posts.
Cheers,
Don
#122
Well, I have the car back, and so far replacing the IACV seems to have fixed the problem.
Now, I'm not willing to call it a complete success yet until I've had a few days and few hundred miles on the clock, but so far it looks good. Keeping fingers crossed as not to jinx it.
...of course now the ABS/Trac-Fail lights are lit, but believe it or not after this ordeal that really doesn't bother me because I already know what that likely is. Sad but true
Now, I'm not willing to call it a complete success yet until I've had a few days and few hundred miles on the clock, but so far it looks good. Keeping fingers crossed as not to jinx it.
...of course now the ABS/Trac-Fail lights are lit, but believe it or not after this ordeal that really doesn't bother me because I already know what that likely is. Sad but true
#124
Thanks!
Heh, why did you change your userid? (more Thunderbirds references I see )
But no, I haven't begun troubleshooting yet. That was my planned approach, address the simplest options first.
1) Check and clean sensors
2) Clean sensing ring tooth gaps, specifically in the rear as they can get gunked up
3) Check wiring
4) Check and re-solder power connector studs in ABS module
And actually, the ABS/Trac-fail lights went out for a full day, so I was hopeful that maybe something just needed to be "exercised" since the car hasn't been driven much in 18 months, but alas the lights came back on during the drive home. But I'll give it a week or so of driving to see if it still goes away on its own after the car has stretched its legs. If not I'll dive into repairing it. Again though, this doesn't really bother me too much as the parameters of this failure are well documented
But so far, it seems to be running fine. I stress tested it in several modes that were in the past quite reliable to cause the stalling, and couldn't get it to fail. So again, keeping fingers crossed.
Thanks for all the help!
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SleekJag12 (05-10-2019)
#125
1997 jaguar vanden plas
I read a few discussions on various forums and these codes are indeed mysterious, but the good thing is they are pending codes, not permanent? The possibilities quoted elsewhere include fault with the secondary air pump, variable cam timing (determined jointly by crankshaft position sensor and cam position sensor), MAF, water in the tank, possible leaking gasket and plug well full of oil......
Let us recap the symptoms being
(a) stalling upon deceleration and stopping
(b) occasional misfire
(c) unsteady idle
(d) dying upon re-start
To cause all four to happen would likely be fuel related, like water in fuel, contaminated fuel, or a dying fuel pump relay and/or the fuel pump or a badly clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
If you suspect this is a temperature related fault, a possible culprit would be the intake air temperature sensor, but such should have been reflected in the codes?
Incidentally I am identifying the causes of my stalling as well, but the symptoms are different, which I would try to share in a different thread.
Let us recap the symptoms being
(a) stalling upon deceleration and stopping
(b) occasional misfire
(c) unsteady idle
(d) dying upon re-start
To cause all four to happen would likely be fuel related, like water in fuel, contaminated fuel, or a dying fuel pump relay and/or the fuel pump or a badly clogged fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.
If you suspect this is a temperature related fault, a possible culprit would be the intake air temperature sensor, but such should have been reflected in the codes?
Incidentally I am identifying the causes of my stalling as well, but the symptoms are different, which I would try to share in a different thread.
this car has soooo many issues but the codes above was one of the few here is what I did I changed the fuel filter the one I bought isn’t oem but it’s a k&m premium (pf1000) this car was parked for years with a little bad gas in the system when I changed the fuel filter it ran soooo much better . I did a 1200 mile trip and started having the same issue now I know my tank has seen better days and I put 5 full tanks of premium fuel will change out filter again and try again the filters are not expensive 20 bucks . More of a headache changing than anything else. ( our cars are known to be pricey to fix so I will pay 20 bucks and a few mins of Texas heat over 1000 dollars at a repair shop
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Parker 7 (07-27-2024)
#126
The community conclusion was those codes were nuisance codes from a first-generation ECU effort in designing ( best first effort )
Do you have outside of codes definition of engine regulation issues ?
Do you have access to using an ELM - 327 engine sensors live data reader ? There are 4 or 5 parameters that are critical tells
There is also voltmeter workarounds ( with known good values ) to interpret
Fuel quality ( this AJ16 engine is sensitive ) can be an issue that can come at you unexpectantly like bad last gas station or water getting into fuel from fill cap well not draining water in dedicated clogged drain line not maintained
Suggest starting a new thread to be more focused on yours
See the AJ16 engine starting page 51 and Jaguar codes page 121 for 96 - 97 years
jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf
You gotta turn the volume up , trust me
This is your normally aspirated 4.0 L engine
Do you have outside of codes definition of engine regulation issues ?
Do you have access to using an ELM - 327 engine sensors live data reader ? There are 4 or 5 parameters that are critical tells
There is also voltmeter workarounds ( with known good values ) to interpret
Fuel quality ( this AJ16 engine is sensitive ) can be an issue that can come at you unexpectantly like bad last gas station or water getting into fuel from fill cap well not draining water in dedicated clogged drain line not maintained
Suggest starting a new thread to be more focused on yours
See the AJ16 engine starting page 51 and Jaguar codes page 121 for 96 - 97 years
jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf
You gotta turn the volume up , trust me
This is your normally aspirated 4.0 L engine
Last edited by Parker 7; 07-27-2024 at 11:32 PM.
#128
Well, I have the car back, and so far replacing the IACV seems to have fixed the problem.
Now, I'm not willing to call it a complete success yet until I've had a few days and few hundred miles on the clock, but so far it looks good. Keeping fingers crossed as not to jinx it.
...of course now the ABS/Trac-Fail lights are lit, but believe it or not after this ordeal that really doesn't bother me because I already know what that likely is. Sad but true
Now, I'm not willing to call it a complete success yet until I've had a few days and few hundred miles on the clock, but so far it looks good. Keeping fingers crossed as not to jinx it.
...of course now the ABS/Trac-Fail lights are lit, but believe it or not after this ordeal that really doesn't bother me because I already know what that likely is. Sad but true
The forum pinged me via email that someone replied to this old thread, so it inspired me to reconfirm that the issue with the stalling problem in this thread was a failed Idle Air Control Valve, which like many things in hindsight makes perfect sense
#129
If you remove the IAC valve the 5.5 mm bolts can snap off as loctited , there should be a gasket on the IAC valve that can be missing
Heat from the inside of the throttle body to loosen the bolts
Do not remove throttle position sensor yet on the bottom of TB but look that the connector ( type EV - 1 ) is locked on by a metal lock bar , my lock bar was missing so connector was sitting on connection
There is an IAC valve reset / exercise contributor Vee has and a external meter test but faults should not accrue until heated up and wound wire coils expanded but may find something cold and rapping with a hammer
In pushing the metal bar down the Ds spread out unlocking connector
4 pin stepper motor schematic
ECU Black connector
Heat from the inside of the throttle body to loosen the bolts
Do not remove throttle position sensor yet on the bottom of TB but look that the connector ( type EV - 1 ) is locked on by a metal lock bar , my lock bar was missing so connector was sitting on connection
There is an IAC valve reset / exercise contributor Vee has and a external meter test but faults should not accrue until heated up and wound wire coils expanded but may find something cold and rapping with a hammer
In pushing the metal bar down the Ds spread out unlocking connector
4 pin stepper motor schematic
ECU Black connector
Last edited by Parker 7; 07-28-2024 at 12:53 PM.
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Cafcpete (07-28-2024)
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