Hi Erma,

It helps the rest of us think through issues if you will include the year, model and engine of your Jaguar. The easiest way to do this is to use your User Control Panel (User CP) to edit your signature and add these details so they will appear in all of your posts.

Cheers,

Don

 

Well, I have the car back, and so far replacing the IACV seems to have fixed the problem.

Now, I'm not willing to call it a complete success yet until I've had a few days and few hundred miles on the clock, but so far it looks good. Keeping fingers crossed as not to jinx it.



...of course now the ABS/Trac-Fail lights are lit, but believe it or not after this ordeal that really doesn't bother me because I already know what that likely is. Sad but true

 

Have you checked the 4 wheel sensor wire pairs for 1300 ohms of fundamental resistance ?

next step sensor cleaning

It's me Lady Penelope

Thanks , Parker

 

Thanks!

Heh, why did you change your userid? (more Thunderbirds references I see )


But no, I haven't begun troubleshooting yet. That was my planned approach, address the simplest options first.

1) Check and clean sensors
2) Clean sensing ring tooth gaps, specifically in the rear as they can get gunked up
3) Check wiring
4) Check and re-solder power connector studs in ABS module


And actually, the ABS/Trac-fail lights went out for a full day, so I was hopeful that maybe something just needed to be "exercised" since the car hasn't been driven much in 18 months, but alas the lights came back on during the drive home. But I'll give it a week or so of driving to see if it still goes away on its own after the car has stretched its legs. If not I'll dive into repairing it. Again though, this doesn't really bother me too much as the parameters of this failure are well documented

But so far, it seems to be running fine. I stress tested it in several modes that were in the past quite reliable to cause the stalling, and couldn't get it to fail. So again, keeping fingers crossed.

Thanks for all the help!

 

I recently purchased a jaguar 1997 vanden plas .
this car has soooo many issues but the codes above was one of the few here is what I did I changed the fuel filter the one I bought isn’t oem but it’s a k&m premium (pf1000) this car was parked for years with a little bad gas in the system when I changed the fuel filter it ran soooo much better . I did a 1200 mile trip and started having the same issue now I know my tank has seen better days and I put 5 full tanks of premium fuel will change out filter again and try again the filters are not expensive 20 bucks . More of a headache changing than anything else. ( our cars are known to be pricey to fix so I will pay 20 bucks and a few mins of Texas heat over 1000 dollars at a repair shop

 

The community conclusion was those codes were nuisance codes from a first-generation ECU effort in designing ( best first effort )

Do you have outside of codes definition of engine regulation issues ?

Do you have access to using an ELM - 327 engine sensors live data reader ? There are 4 or 5 parameters that are critical tells

There is also voltmeter workarounds ( with known good values ) to interpret

Fuel quality ( this AJ16 engine is sensitive ) can be an issue that can come at you unexpectantly like bad last gas station or water getting into fuel from fill cap well not draining water in dedicated clogged drain line not maintained

Suggest starting a new thread to be more focused on yours

See the AJ16 engine starting page 51 and Jaguar codes page 121 for 96 - 97 years

jagrepair.com/images/Training Guides/801S - 2000.pdf

You gotta turn the volume up , trust me

This is your normally aspirated 4.0 L engine

 

To start your Jaguar experience this video is on Youtube

 

The forum pinged me via email that someone replied to this old thread, so it inspired me to reconfirm that the issue with the stalling problem in this thread was a failed Idle Air Control Valve, which like many things in hindsight makes perfect sense

 

If you remove the IAC valve the 5.5 mm bolts can snap off as loctited , there should be a gasket on the IAC valve that can be missing

Heat from the inside of the throttle body to loosen the bolts

Do not remove throttle position sensor yet on the bottom of TB but look that the connector ( type EV - 1 ) is locked on by a metal lock bar , my lock bar was missing so connector was sitting on connection

There is an IAC valve reset / exercise contributor Vee has and a external meter test but faults should not accrue until heated up and wound wire coils expanded but may find something cold and rapping with a hammer

In pushing the metal bar down the Ds spread out unlocking connector



4 pin stepper motor schematic



ECU Black connector