Looking at one of the pics I saw your radiator bushings are completely gone. If you grab the radiator at the top you should be able to move it back and forth, not good. There are 2 upper and 2 lower bushings to replace, cheap and easy to do.

While you are at it I would also replace the air cond. condenser bushings also 2 upper and 2 lower

Both the XJ6s that I bought needed this service

 

Yes, the two fuel pipes can only be accessed from under the car, somewhere above the differential. The fuel pipes have a quick-fit-connector design, so you will need a special tool (Norma Pliers?) to remove the connectors. Do not sway and pull the pipes. Read my earlier posts and you’ll understand why.
Fuel Tank Woes
Fuel Pipe Connectors

 

Progress is slow but thankfully I have time. Regarding removal of fuel tank. The car is up on jack stands and all connections applicable in the trunk are disconnected.
From under the car, I see two line that I assume are fuel lines. One goes into what looks like a fuel filter. I could easily disconnect at this point but I am not sure this is the correct place.
Further rear, I see the two lines with what looks like hard rubber connections, directly above the driver side coil spring. I think this is where people are telling me to disconnect the lines. Not sure, maybe someone could let me know?
These lines appear to be very difficult to work with or get my hands and tools on. How have others gotten these lines disconnected> Do I use the cpcv split pipe tool and tap it with a mallet?
Again, I do not want to proceed without feeling confident I am doing the correct procedure.
Thanks for any help. So far, so good!
BTW, it is very tight space under there.

 

Now that I have the car up in the air and the rear driver side wheel off, I can see much better. Those line that everyone tells me be disconnected from under the car, seem very difficult to access. Does one line go to an in-line fuel filter. Looks that way to me?

 

Yes, that's the outlet line from the fuel pump to the fuel rail. The other line is the return from the fuel rail to the fuel tank.

Did you look at aholbro1's post about the little tool he made from PVC pipe? That helps you reach into the recess where the hose fittings are and apply more pressure to your fuel line disconnect tool. I've found that it also helps to press in on the hose/pipe while you're pressing the disconnect tool into the connector to give the "teeth" in the connector more room to spread so the pipe will release. When they release, you'll feel the pipe loosen and you can pull it out.

Be sure to depressurize the system first, by removing the fuel pump relay, starting the engine and letting it run till it dies. If it won't start at all, just crank it for 10 seconds or so and the pressure should dissipate.

Cheers,

Don

 

Just for absolute clarity this is where you need to disconnect



(Diff and Rear Subframe is removed in this picture)


I have found the best way is to remove the pipes is by feel rather than trying to see what you are doing at the same time.

Get in position under the car (having made 100% sure it is stable on stands and chocked) with your head roughly under the diff, and legs parallel to the line of the car and pointing to the rear. Then try and get your arms either side of the diff, using one hand to press in the disconnect tool, and one hand to pull the pipe out.

 

WOW, Now I see. Thank you very much, glad I did not try because I thought the disconnect was at the black hard rubber covers over the lines!!!
This fourm has really helped.
Now, not sure how to use the split CPVC 3/8" pipe but where do I get the proper tool?
Is it a common tool or Jaguar only?

Also, any special info on re-connecting?

I tried to get my hands up there. Is it possible or do I need to remove something. WOW, I'm a small person with small hands and it seems impossible. Am I missing something?

 

The tool can be had at any auto-parts store. You need the 3/8" size. Can probably get a set easier than a single, though. They are standard a/c and/or fuel system disconnect tools. There is a picture of them in my fuel pump post, linked earlier in the boot hinge thread, I think. Beware, they are also offered in a scissor-type tool that makes 4 sizes. You don't want that for this job. Get the separate ones that look a little like top-hats with an axial split in them.

Brendan described exactly the position you need to get into to accomplish it. If you can't reach it like that, you likely have the car too high or not high enough. I did it one-handed, first snapping the disconnect tool around one line, then pressing it up into the joint with fingertips firm enough for it to stay there. Then I slipped my cheater pipe tool over the same line and brought it to bear on the back of the disconnect tool. Grasp the line with four fingers and push on the back of the cheater pipe with your thumb whilst gripping and pushing the line toward the tank. Then tug back/down on the line while continuing to push the cheater pipe toward the tank by extending your thumb.

Sounds harder than it is.....and if there is dirt/dust/grime up in there, it will be harder than it sounds. I recommend a few quick blasts of the area with a compressed-air blow gun attachment, despite the fact it will all fall in your eyes and hair!

 

Jim,

The quick-disconnect tool is a standard type available in an inexpensive set at most auto parts stores. See the photo in aholbro1's post that Brendan linked to back in post 16 and I seconded in post 18:

Fuel Pump Renew How-To (No Hacksaw Required)

To reconnect the fuel lines, you just press them straight in until you hear/feel a click, then tug to be sure the line is fully secured.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Guys, I found the AC/Fuel disconnect tools. and woke up this morning with an understanding of what I have to do.
Just read the two replies and extend thanks. I think I can handle getting it out now.
I will give it a few blasts with compressed air. Safety glasses on!
This will likeley happen over the weekend, I'll post my results.
Once again, Thank You.

 

I knew a guy in the early 1970s named Jim McGrath. He had a 1968 Firebird 400.
Small world if your were that guy???

bob

 

Motorcarman, I was driving a 1968 GTO with a 400 CI motor in the early 1970's. I lived in North, New Jersey at the time. Moved to Calif. in the mid 70's. Mostly motorcycles during my Calif. days although I did have a great Dodge Challenger around 1976.
My first two cars were both 2 door 1957 Chevy's. Wish I had kept them!
I graduated from Dover High School in Dover, NJ in 1968.
Now I live the retired life on the Space Coast in Florida.
Looks like I will pick up a set of those disconnect tool this weekend, my local auto parts have them in stock. As soon as I get the tank out I will order the new fuel pump and a new filter.
This forum is a great storehouse of knowledge and info!