95 XJ6 A/C blowing cold but not hard.....
#1
95 XJ6 A/C blowing cold but not hard.....
Good afternoon Jaguar Nation,
I turn to you for help again; sometimes we are able to help one another with problems we've had in the past. Today I noticed that my XJ6's air conditioning is blowing COLD but not hard. Sounds as if the air maybe blowing behind the dashboard. To further confirm I noticed there was a little condensation in the lower right side of the instrument cluster. It wasn't much but it was cool to the touch. Can someone please help me or give me a few leads in rosolving this issue?
Thanks
I turn to you for help again; sometimes we are able to help one another with problems we've had in the past. Today I noticed that my XJ6's air conditioning is blowing COLD but not hard. Sounds as if the air maybe blowing behind the dashboard. To further confirm I noticed there was a little condensation in the lower right side of the instrument cluster. It wasn't much but it was cool to the touch. Can someone please help me or give me a few leads in rosolving this issue?
Thanks
#4
Nah, set them running at "high speed" reach under the scuttle panel on each side of the console and "feel" the motor housing. If the fan is running it will be noticeable as compared to own that is inop.
The car has 2 fans, one on each side of the dash assembly, encased in all the a/c stuff, but the casings that house the fans/motors can be easily felt by reaching under the lower dash scuttle panel.
Further advice will flow quickly once this SIMPLE task is reported.
The car has 2 fans, one on each side of the dash assembly, encased in all the a/c stuff, but the casings that house the fans/motors can be easily felt by reaching under the lower dash scuttle panel.
Further advice will flow quickly once this SIMPLE task is reported.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 07-31-2011 at 04:15 AM.
#5
I was able to take the passenger side bottom panel off; my '95 XJ is "pre-glovebox" so that part of fairly easy. The passenger side blower was working; the driver side was a little more difficult to get to but it was working has well. Drove the car again today, still the same problem; very cold air but blowing out the vents very little. I even tried closing all the other vents to see if it would blow "harder", needless to say it didn't happen. Whatelse could my problem be?
Thanks Jaguar Nation
Thanks Jaguar Nation
#6
OK, now I am getting in WAY over my head.
It sounds horribly like you get a flap jammed, and this Nippon Denso system is all ECU driven, with small motors directly operating the flaps etc.
The a/c system has a self diagnostic mode, accesable via the control panel inside the car, but I have NEVER been there so others will need to assist you with that bit, sorry.
It sounds horribly like you get a flap jammed, and this Nippon Denso system is all ECU driven, with small motors directly operating the flaps etc.
The a/c system has a self diagnostic mode, accesable via the control panel inside the car, but I have NEVER been there so others will need to assist you with that bit, sorry.
#7
Thanks, but I don't think that's it. The blower on the passenger side it looks as if it has a door with some type of filter on it, when it's turned on HIGH, it opens very slowly then after a few minutes it looks as if a filter door/flap closes but the air still runs just the same; very weak. What could this be?
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#9
I have the exact same problem and I tried the recirculation mode and the blower effect was doubled. So, the air doesn't seem to get in properly.
Where do we go from here?
#11
every issue ive every seen on this is a blower inop. when 1 goes down the other blows straight across to the other side and non through the vents. I would almost say you should unplug the electrical connector on the bottom of each 1 to verify its working or not by the change in blower noise. Ive been under many of dashs and even experiance can lead to not knowing is both are working. Unplug 1 and you still have a blower working although less noise you know both are working. unplug 1 and noise stops, you know the other blower is inop. The door you guys ar etalking about are the recirc doors. When they are open the blowers are drawing in cabin air and the blower noise will be louder of course since it opening to the squirrel cages of the blowers. This is where you also go into to remove that FOAM, not filter material, that eventually comes off and goes in to cages creating a card in bicycle spokes type noise
#12
freda144,
any luck yet for you?
I located the four blower relays at the rh heelboard and the two fuses (L + R heelboard, fuse #11) and tested them today. Both fuses were fine. Removed relay 2 + 3 one at a time, with the blower on low speed. Repeated with relay 1 + 4 at the high speed. Every relay clicked as I removed and reinserted them, and the tone of the blowers changed as well. Guess this means that my blowers and all four relays were working fine at the time of the test, but unfortunately this problem comes and goes, so what to do next?
Recirculate created a lot more noise and a slightly more aggressive air stream, but not doubled.
HVAC test reported no errors.
any luck yet for you?
I located the four blower relays at the rh heelboard and the two fuses (L + R heelboard, fuse #11) and tested them today. Both fuses were fine. Removed relay 2 + 3 one at a time, with the blower on low speed. Repeated with relay 1 + 4 at the high speed. Every relay clicked as I removed and reinserted them, and the tone of the blowers changed as well. Guess this means that my blowers and all four relays were working fine at the time of the test, but unfortunately this problem comes and goes, so what to do next?
Recirculate created a lot more noise and a slightly more aggressive air stream, but not doubled.
HVAC test reported no errors.
#13
#15
All right, first I checked the fuses and found out that both blowers are working.
Then I discovered the self test that was described in the pdf.
The following was returned
12 --- Ambient temperature sensor malfunction Harness / connector fault Sensor open / short circuit
After rectification, disconnect the vehicle battery for 10 seconds to reset the system.
23 --- Reference fault code #23*: In ambient temperatures below 0°C, this code may be logged
because the low ambient causes a temporary low gas pressure. Where the ambient temperature
rises above 40°C, with the engine close to overheating, electrical feed to the compressor clutch
may be cut and code #23 registered.
24 --- Face vent demand potentiometer fault Potentiometer open / short circuit Harness / connector
fault Refer to PDU
23 is easy, it's the time of the year when the temperatures drops below 0°C, and I know that the AC is working (at least it did last summer).
12 could be that I'm currently missing the right brake cooling duct which also contains a sensor? The front right plastic cover inside the wheel arch (I don't know the english name for it, but maybe you know what I mean) is damaged and the cooling duct had to be temporarily removed. Then it was misplaced That is some time ago, and it has been forgotten, and I haven't had any problems with anything after that.
That leaves 24, which sound strange since that seems to work. It shifts nicely between all the vents.
Then I discovered the self test that was described in the pdf.
The following was returned
12 --- Ambient temperature sensor malfunction Harness / connector fault Sensor open / short circuit
After rectification, disconnect the vehicle battery for 10 seconds to reset the system.
23 --- Reference fault code #23*: In ambient temperatures below 0°C, this code may be logged
because the low ambient causes a temporary low gas pressure. Where the ambient temperature
rises above 40°C, with the engine close to overheating, electrical feed to the compressor clutch
may be cut and code #23 registered.
24 --- Face vent demand potentiometer fault Potentiometer open / short circuit Harness / connector
fault Refer to PDU
23 is easy, it's the time of the year when the temperatures drops below 0°C, and I know that the AC is working (at least it did last summer).
12 could be that I'm currently missing the right brake cooling duct which also contains a sensor? The front right plastic cover inside the wheel arch (I don't know the english name for it, but maybe you know what I mean) is damaged and the cooling duct had to be temporarily removed. Then it was misplaced That is some time ago, and it has been forgotten, and I haven't had any problems with anything after that.
That leaves 24, which sound strange since that seems to work. It shifts nicely between all the vents.
Last edited by freda155; 01-16-2012 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Some info was wrong, correct as of now.
#16
#17
#18
For the cold air check your pump Jaguar XJ6 Aux heater pump It could be clogged.