Thanks all. Good to know what that device is before we start poking at it. Now that we have some daylight we'll look try to gently remove it. It it something that might have a charge on it (capacitor)?

Bobby

 

Thanks again to all. We removed the suppressor. One of those rusted screws (8mm) did snap off. But I can fix that. Now on to the next problem. The upper wishbone won't come apart at the ball joint. From what I've read posted here this is not unusual (went back and read through Katar83's post above). So here's what it looks like:



The outer bolt came right out with a breaker bar. The inner one won't budge. I have confirmed that this bolt is rusted to the opposite theaded side. When I twisted the ball joint the bolt did not move. Like everybody who has done this I'm fearful of snapping the bolt. I don't have any meaningful torches to heat it up, but I'll buy one if I must.

So I'm looking for suggestions on what might work. What worked for you? Is repeated heating my only option? And if so, do I try to break it loose when it's hot or re heat it several times before trying? Is there a preffered method?

Thanks!

Bobby

Note: As you can see it's already been soaked with penetrant. We have taken note of what shims are where.
UPDATE: I had luck tonight and got the bolt loose by mounting the threaded side in a vise and using a barrowed impact wrench/gun on it.

Now on to the bottom wishbone.
.

 

Lower fulcrum bolt.......



We've had zero luck with this bolt on both sides. An impact wrench hammering away on it for several minutes after soaking in penetrant had no effect. It doesn't move. We were able to split the wishbone and remove the front half without issues. The remaining back half moves up and down just fine. Sure wish they had designed it with nuts on both sides.

Anybody had success removing these bolts?

There isn't a secret locking pin hidden someplace is there?

Thanks,

Bobby

 

Hi Bobby,

No secret locking pin, unfortunately. I often have to resort to hammering the end of the bolt while simultaneously trying to spin it with an impact gun from the head end. I install the nut on the bolt just far enough to protect the threads while hammering. Not much room to get any force on it with the hammer - I use a small sledge or drilling hammer with maybe a 4 pound head, and I use the side of the head to give a little more room for swinging the hammer. Lots of penetrating oil is critical at the points where the bolt goes through the control arms and subframe.

Cheers,

Don

 

That's a special Jag bolt, similar to the ones in the rear wishbones, generally they are designed to not snap, even at high impact, they will simply bend, you will not break it free from subframe with an impact gun. Sledge hammer should do the trick, but first thing I'd try is a breakers bar and a pipe over it or/and some heat, if that wont work best to leave well alone,

Forgot to mention, if you removed the other end, you could always cut it off on the side you pictured and tighten the nut on the end that you removed, that would pull the pin too but of course you'd need a replacement bolt too.

 

Thanks all. We'll try a bit longer. If this bolt won't come out we'll leave it for a professional at a later date. This bushing's not in bad shape I don't think. Just liked to have replace it while it's all apart.

Bobby

 

According to Archimedes, “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world. ”