XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

96 xj6 starts fine, idles good but stalls and will not rev over 2700

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  #21  
Old 09-20-2013, 09:55 PM
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Thanks Doug,
Crazy thing is, I found my old OBDcom software and it does real time data. It has a lot more tools that I have never used. I hadn't used it in a few years as it requires the laptop to be with you in the car. So I will be firing it up tomorrow. If it's what I think it is the massive dose of throttle body cleaner that the shop used may have taken out an o2 sensor or 2. The smoke that came out of the tail pipe was ridiculous. We'll see.
Thanks again.
 
  #22  
Old 09-21-2013, 03:34 AM
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In additon to the dealer level software, I use AutoEnginuity with Jaguar extensions. With the enhanced Jaguar features it comes in at about $650. as I recall and requires a laptop.
But most any of the softwares that will do a chart will do what you need.
 

Last edited by sparkenzap; 09-21-2013 at 03:36 AM.
  #23  
Old 09-23-2013, 04:02 AM
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Last edited by Big-D; 09-23-2013 at 04:05 AM.
  #24  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:36 PM
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Hi all,
So I think I/we have resolved the issues with my XJ6. Here is the last round of work that was done. I retested the intake system for vacuum leaks. This time I smoke checked it using the best Cuban cigar I could find, I learned 2 things 1. No leaks in the intake and 2. There is no such thing as a good cigar… I still can’t get that taste out of my mouth. Next I Un-installed and re- installed the spark plugs and coil packs (I wanted to look at the plugs anyway) they looked good, so I removed the boots and cleaned the contacts with Scotchbrite and put a bite more preload on the springs. I found a couple that had very low spring tension and were a bit sketchy. After reassembling the car ran smooth and did not stall! So that’s one big step in the right direction. The CKPS, spark plugs and cleaning the coils Worked. I don’t know if it is standard procedure or not but I would recommend cleaning and inspecting the boots and springs and contacts when doing the plugs. Be careful during the removal. I used a little WD40 on the interface between the boot and the coil. Then a smooth 90deg pick to roll the boots off the coils. During the test drive I still had no power and the engine would not rev up.
I was waiting for my new OBDcom software and interface plug to arrive; I had an older version that used the serial port of a very old laptop. It worked great on my old 740i and it does real time LTFT and STFT not bad for $87. I figured I would check again for clogged cats again. This time I pulled the o2 sensors and started it up. It revved much better up to 4k or more in park with no issues, so I drove it around the shop real quick. The engine was all there, she pulled strong and revved well at WOT. So now I just need to figure what the permanent fix will be, new cats welded into the existing pipe, remove the bricks from the current cats (this will be the short term test) or buy a new Y pipe, cost is a big issue for me. I’ll let you know how it goes.
BTW the thing that caused most of the problem was the first thing I did. I took the car into a “real repair shop” and asked them to have a look, and that I thought it couldn’t hurt to have the throttle body cleaned. I was not specific in wanted, when I returned the bill was lower than I expected. What the shop had done was run a bunch of solvent through the throttle body, with the engine running and “blew a lot of smoke out the tail pipes. This was NOT a good investment IMHO. All the crud goes through the engine and out the exhaust, which is very bad for cats and o2 sensors. So if you thinking about servicing your car and a trip to the dealer isn’t in your plans. Think about doing it the right way. Remove the throttle body and clean everything it thoroughly Clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner only. Brake cleaner works for everything else. Remove the IAC and clean it as well. When I did mine after the shop cleaning, it was still crappy and nothing had been done to the idle air bypass (they have to rev the engine up to keep in running when they spray the mystery stuff in). The correct process is not hard to do and it doesn’t take a long time. If you’re not up to DIY, at least tell the repair shop to Remove and Clean. The low cost service caused my Cats to clog up, within 30 miles of the service; this repair is much more expensive than the cost of cleaning the T.B. off the engine. The second problem I created myself by not doing a thorough job on the spark plug change the first time.
THANKS again to everyone for all the assistance. I hope this information will help others
Cheers,
 
  #25  
Old 09-24-2013, 03:36 PM
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You might check gap in crankshaft sensor mine was .048 out of tolerance and adjusted by adjusting bracket mine now is .025 in. Much better signal even with new crank sensor. I do believe my problem is with the catalytic converter it almost fried my car with smoke in cabin. Rear i think cat or muffler. It got to over 600 f front cat was cooler.300 f
 
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